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Posted

We do not know how your machine is set up and if you have a circuit breaker on your machine or not. No matter what when you leave an (especially older) electric deceive plugged in I would recommend a circuit breaker or a power strip equipped with one.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
1 hour ago, Northmount said:

What motor and controls are on it?

What ever was originally on it from new 60-70 years ago. I think it's a pot or potted(?) motor and foot pedal.

 

10 hours ago, Constabulary said:

We do not know how your machine is set up and if you have a circuit breaker on your machine or not. No matter what when you leave an (especially older) electric deceive plugged in I would recommend a circuit breaker or a power strip equipped with one.

  To use to turn on and off or for general protection for machine?

Posted
6 minutes ago, Burkhardt said:

What ever was originally on it from new 60-70 years ago. I think it's a pot or potted(?) motor and foot pedal.

Pictures?? 

Doesn't sound like a clutch motor and by age definitely not a servo.  So no, the motor doesn't draw any current if just plugged in but not running.  Unless ... there is a short circuit or a build up of somewhat conductive material between hot and neutral connections.  If someone has added a 3rd wire safety ground to the system and there could be some leakage from the motor windings to the grounded frame assuming the foot control was placed on the neutral side rather than the hot side of the line.  Had a Sunbeam Mixmaster that gave you a zing if you touched it and the kitchen sink at the same time.

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Posted
6 minutes ago, Northmount said:

Pictures?? 

Doesn't sound like a clutch motor and by age definitely not a servo.  So no, the motor doesn't draw any current if just plugged in but not running.  Unless ... there is a short circuit or a build up of somewhat conductive material between hot and neutral connections.  If someone has added a 3rd wire safety ground to the system and there could be some leakage from the motor windings to the grounded frame assuming the foot control was placed on the neutral side rather than the hot side of the line.  Had a Sunbeam Mixmaster that gave you a zing if you touched it and the kitchen sink at the same time.

00J0J_2zvPHMTBttKz_0CI0t2_600x450.jpg

Not mine but it's identical to this.

  • Moderator
Posted

The Singer 15-91 is a domestic/home sewing machine; not industrial. It is definitely not a leather sewing machine! That's what's causing the confusion in the answers. I have owned a couple of them. I rebuilt and sold them in my leather and sewing shop as a sideline. I even wrote a web page devoted to the Singer 15-91.

Now, as for the motor, it is a pod motor built into the head. These motors are old now and the wires and brushes wear out over time. You can replace the brushes yourself if the motor sparks when it runs. But, rewiring it is probably not worth the trouble. You are better off trying to buy a rebuilt pod motor online. As it is, it may draw power when not is use. So, unplug it it until you intend to sew. Plug it into a power bar with a breaker, in case the old motor decides to short out. Beware, you could become part of the AC circuit!

Because of the way the 15-91 (and model 201) was designed, it is not practical to try running it on an external motor. If it runs erratically, or not at all, get rid of it or buy a rebuilt motor. You'll have to unplug it and carefully detach the old wires, then attach the new ones.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
9 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

The Singer 15-91 is a domestic/home sewing machine; not industrial. It is definitely not a leather sewing machine! That's what's causing the confusion in the answers. I have owned a couple of them. I rebuilt and sold them in my leather and sewing shop as a sideline. I even wrote a web page devoted to the Singer 15-91.

Now, as for the motor, it is a pod motor built into the head. These motors are old now and the wires and brushes wear out over time. You can replace the brushes yourself if the motor sparks when it runs. But, rewiring it is probably not worth the trouble. You are better off trying to buy a rebuilt pod motor online. As it is, it may draw power when not is use. So, unplug it it until you intend to sew. Plug it into a power bar with a breaker, in case the old motor decides to short out. Beware, you could become part of the AC circuit!

Because of the way the 15-91 (and model 201) was designed, it is not practical to try running it on an external motor. If it runs erratically, or not at all, get rid of it or buy a rebuilt motor. You'll have to unplug it and carefully detach the old wires, then attach the new ones.

I probably didn't put in right section. It's ten times the machine compared to the new garbage plastic ones. This one works great on thinner stuff like wallet interiors or canvas bags. It did not like 138 to much and on certain things was OK but definitely likes 92 thread much better. Thanks Wiz 

  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted (edited)

The 15-91's (aka Farmer's Wife's Friend) I've rebuilt are way more forgiving on the thread being used than the 201's and will do better on thin leather and canvas.  That being said, on fabric you cannot beat a 201 for consistent stitch quality (Top and Bottom stitch!!), plus 201's are much quieter... no clack-clack.  A lot of alteration shops started with 201's back in the day until they could afford a commercial Singer, Juki ect.  Zig-zag was accomplished via a mechanical attachment that moved the fabric rather than the needle (same attachment worked/works for most straight shaft black Singers).  We still use a 15-91 or 201 with a Singer Buttonholer Attachment (from the 40's) just for the button holes on shirts and garments.  More options, better looking buttonholes.

138 sometimes will work (cosmetically) on the 15-91 depending on the material, if bobbin is threaded with 66 or lighter and you use the largest needle you can find that fits, usually this is a size 18, tho 19 would be better.  Don't try this with "Coat and Button" thread in the bobbin... the stuff we get these days tagged as Coat and Button runs very inconsistent thru-out the spool.

But...  these machines are sooo NOT a substitute for an industrial walking foot for general leather work.  

Edited by Ole South
double negative
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Posted

A 15-91 is a sought-after machine by the vintage Singer people with good reason. The direct drive motor is powerful. Instructions for complete motor rebuilds are out there for those who want to take it on.

The question was does it draw power when just sitting there plugged in - no, it shouldn't, just like most other domestic pedal controlled machines. It COULD if there is a problem with the pedal, cords, or the light or motor wiring. If it does, I would suspect the pedal first. Power doesn't get to the motor except through the pedal. The way Singer designed their connectors makes it challenging to rewire and get correct, and you never know if Bubba worked on it and screwed something up. 

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