Dye not taking

[MickInMelbs]

What could I do to get dye to properly penetrate? I am working on a piece made from 2 different veg tanned hides. One has taken the black dye well, the other not so much. I attempted to address this by polishing the whole piece in black boot polish, but it seems to have highlighted the difference. My first thought would be to treat the bad sections with Fiebing’s dye-prep and then re-dye. Any other ideas?

[Sheilajeanne]

What dye are you using? People have commented on Fiebing's USMC black dye not taking well. You can buff until your arms are about to fall off, and it will still be bleeding into the rag.

[MickInMelbs]

Yes I’m using USMC black. 

[tsunkasapa]

Two different hides will take dye differently, just like two different pieces of wood will take stain differently. 

[bladegrinder]

I can't help you with this one but as for me, I gave up on using the USMC dye because of rub off. now when I want to dye black I use vinegaroon, it turns the leather jet black and no rub off at all.

[MickInMelbs]

44 minutes ago, bladegrinder said:

I can't help you with this one but as for me, I gave up on using the USMC dye because of rub off. now when I want to dye black I use vinegaroon, it turns the leather jet black and no rub off at all.

Thanks. Will have to look into that. 

[Handstitched]

One problem I had with some 5mm veg tan that it was a bit shiny, so the dye didn't quite penetrate the way it should have, so I got some fine wet 'n' dry , gave the  grain  a bit of a light  rub and then dyed it, that seemed to have worked. Not saying  this will work with your leather, but perhaps try it on some scrap first, see what happens  .  The dye I use is water based  with a little bit of alcohol  from Birdsall in NSW Australia . Haven't  used your dye before though. 

HS

[Dwight]

The other thing you might do . . . it works for browns . . . hit it with a light coat of neatsfoot oil . . . if you have not put a finish on the leather.

I had one heck of a time especially with saddle tan . . . blotchy . . . streaky . . . dark & light.

Began doing a coat of NFO on every saddle tan project . . . NO MORE troubles.  Now I use it on just about everything.

May God bless,

Dwight

[MickInMelbs]

5 hours ago, Dwight said:

The other thing you might do . . . it works for browns . . . hit it with a light coat of neatsfoot oil . . . if you have not put a finish on the leather.

I had one heck of a time especially with saddle tan . . . blotchy . . . streaky . . . dark & light.

Began doing a coat of NFO on every saddle tan project . . . NO MORE troubles.  Now I use it on just about everything.

May God bless,

Dwight

Interesting. I’ll try that. Cheers 

 

6 hours ago, Handstitched said:

One problem I had with some 5mm veg tan that it was a bit shiny, so the dye didn't quite penetrate the way it should have, so I got some fine wet 'n' dry , gave the  grain  a bit of a light  rub and then dyed it, that seemed to have worked. Not saying  this will work with your leather, but perhaps try it on some scrap first, see what happens  .  The dye I use is water based  with a little bit of alcohol  from Birdsall in NSW Australia . Haven't  used your dye before though. 

HS

Will do, cheers 

[nrk]

On 12/9/2022 at 4:02 AM, tsunkasapa said:

Two different hides will take dye differently, just like two different pieces of wood will take stain differently. 

true

@MickInMelbs

avoid using different hides from different sources.
one manufacturer's leather is ok. 

also, before going for final item, check pieces on small scraps