Besthorsegear Report post Posted December 15, 2022 Can't find an acceptable light tan dye. Fiebing's saddle tan is still too dark. TIA for your suggestions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grumpymann Report post Posted December 15, 2022 have you tried diluting the die? pro use alcohol for NORMAL use I start with 50/50. for lighter I would start with 55-60% alcohol to dye. test on a scrap piece and go till you find what you like Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nrk Report post Posted December 15, 2022 5 hours ago, Besthorsegear said: Can't find an acceptable light tan dye. Fiebing's saddle tan is still too dark. TIA for your suggestions. how exactly do you apply a dye? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted December 15, 2022 10 minutes ago, nrk said: how exactly do you apply a dye? I started out with sponges and daubers many years ago, bug now, 99% of my stuff is dip dyed. More consistent color, a bit more penetration depth and overall, easier. I use the long, tight sealing rubbermaid tubs to store it. And for besthorsegear, you will find that almost all of the Fiebings dyes will need to be diluted to show the true color. At least in my and many others experiences. Some, as much as 75% dilution. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
327fed Report post Posted December 16, 2022 Try an airbrush or a mini paint gun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nrk Report post Posted December 18, 2022 (edited) On 12/16/2022 at 3:14 AM, TomG said: I started out with sponges and daubers many years ago, bug now, 99% of my stuff is dip dyed. More consistent color, a bit more penetration depth and overall, easier. I use the long, tight sealing rubbermaid tubs to store it. And for besthorsegear, you will find that almost all of the Fiebings dyes will need to be diluted to show the true color. At least in my and many others experiences. Some, as much as 75% dilution. years ago i started the same way, but quickly found out that reaching a colour uniformity requires some practice and methodology. dip dying is one of the ways to reach uniformity in colour compared to daubers. this has 3 cons imho: 1 - requires more dye, 2 - it gives all the pigments into the leather, 3 - a limitation in process - you will get one colour (no antiquing or playing around with colour combination - exclusion is paints, such as angelus). did not work for me most times. so i came up with getting hands of using sponge technique (you can control the sponge size and surface square). personally never liked the idea of dilution (just because it is not a wood/metal paint which is required to be diluted), but it works of course. now working on airbrush technique Edited December 18, 2022 by nrk miswording Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted December 18, 2022 This popped up on YouTube the other day, and may help a bit with dilution. I've found that I can get more even dying with dilution than without, but it may take multiple coats. I also find it's a little easier to get an even color if I dampen the leather just a bit first. I have used Fiebings dye reducer, but find that 90% rubbing alcohol works just as well. - Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted December 18, 2022 8 hours ago, nrk said: years ago i started the same way, but quickly found out that reaching a colour uniformity requires some practice and methodology. dip dying is one of the ways to reach uniformity in colour compared to daubers. this has 3 cons imho: 1 - requires more dye, 2 - it gives all the pigments into the leather, 3 - a limitation in process - you will get one colour (no antiquing or playing around with colour combination - exclusion is paints, such as angelus). did not work for me most times. so i came up with getting hands of using sponge technique (you can control the sponge size and surface square). personally never liked the idea of dilution (just because it is not a wood/metal paint which is required to be diluted), but it works of course. now working on airbrush technique 1) Yup - it does take a little more dye, but if you have to keep going over areas to get uniform coverage, I'm not so sure that this is valid. But, in either case, it shouldn't be a lot. The second reason I dip, it that I primarily make straps, such as dog collar, leashes, belts and bracelet type of goods. Third reason is that I often get batch orders that need to be uniform and dip dying is the way to go. 2) I'm not sure why you would want all the pigments to not go into the the leather, unless you wanted a fade, highlighted or variegated effect. In those cases, I do use a sponge or even block dye the piece. 3) Yes.. sort of. You can still use antiquing with a dip dyed piece. I use Leather Balm after the dye dries, let it dry, buff it out and then apply the antiquing gel. But yeah, for multi-color, if you are painted with dyes, like Al Stoehlman or Peter Main, it's the only way. I do use a lot of paints for stamped letters and such. In most cases I use the small needle tipped bottles to apply the surface and a different color to the channels. Dilution is about the only way that I have found to get a true color with dip, and even sponges. My first attempts as dauber and sponges using Saddle Tan resulted in a medium-dark brown. I have airbrushes, but seldom use them. It's mainly a lack of a spray booth for now. But, it can produce some terrific effects. The only drawback is very little penetration, so I've found it prone to scratching more than other methods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doubleh Report post Posted December 18, 2022 (edited) On 12/15/2022 at 10:13 AM, Besthorsegear said: Can't find an acceptable light tan dye. Fiebing's saddle tan is still too dark. TIA for your suggestions. I am in the same boat. I have a holster in the works and I don't want it as dark as Fiebing's is going to make it. It should be named saddle brown as it certainly isn't tan. I am going to experiment with Min-Wax oil stains for wood to see if I can get what I want. I have several different colors and scrap leather to practice on so why not. I watched the video on dye reducers and wasn't impressed with the results. It is hard enough to get a uniform color as it is and reducers seems to just make things worse. Another option would be to buy dye powers and mix the color you want but I am not interested in getting that deep into it for just a piece now and then. Edited December 18, 2022 by doubleh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsunkasapa Report post Posted December 19, 2022 In one of his books on coloring leather, Al Stohlman said to never use dye straight. Better to do several coats diluted. While I DO use them straight on occasion, usually I dilute 1part dye to whatever of 99% alcohol. 2 parts is normal, but I have diluted as much as 7-1. The color you want is there, you just have to find it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites