Still Buffing

[Gosut]

Late last night, started buffing the Fiebing Pro Dye Dark Brown on a belt when it felt dry. Had enough rub-off that I left it overnight. Returned to it this morning, and after forty minutes still getting some rub-off. My understanding is that this sort of rub-off is from dye on the surface, so am trying to buff off before applying a conditioner. The leather is dry, but has a very fine "grabby" feel like a coating when I rub my fingers over the slick side. Given how little dye remained in the bottle, it's very possible I put too much on the leather and this is the result.

 

The big question is should I continue buffing until there's no rub-off before applying conditioner, or apply conditioner and then continue buffing?

[TomE]

After lots of buffing, I would apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil, let it soak in for several hours to overnight, and buff some more.  What weight leather are you working with and how did you apply the dye?

[Gosut]

It's 8/9 oz leather. I applied the dye with a disposable foam brush of the type used for wood stain and varnish. That foam turned out not to be as dense as I thought. It took three coats spaced several hours apart to get even coverage. Basically applied and left alone for a few hours, then repeated until it was even.

Have put on the neatsfoot oil, using the method I did with work boots: Folded over two or three shop towels into a small square, held it tightly against the bottle, turned the bottle up, then set right again, and wiped on what was on the towels. Have set it aside to soak in. A surprising amount came off on the shop towels, but resisted the urge to keep going over it with the oil.

This is for a work belt. Next time I'll use water buffalo leather and not worry about dyeing or finishing.

[Gosut]

Update:

About half an hour ago, noticed all the oil had soaked in, took it down, and buffed it. Had no rub-off. All I have to do now is to seal it with Resolene (tm), put in the buckle and snaps, and it's done..

[TomG]

Glad to hear that you have success.
I make lots of straps.. Belts, dog collars, etc.
I dip dye 99% of them. I have Rubbermaid, seal-able tubs for each of the main dyes that I use. I stir before use as the dyestuffs can settle.
Then, I drag the strap through it slowly (about 1" per second), and hang it to dry. I have a rack that hangs from my garage ceiling. I punch a small hole in the scrap end of the strap to hang it from, before dyeing.
Except for black, I have very little rub-off.
 

 

[Dwight]

To start with . . . you should never use Feibings dye straight 100% as it is in the bottle . . . always thin it down . . . most do a 50 / 50 dye and thinner.

Second . . . apply neatsfoot oil before you dye the project  . . .  and dip dying is far superior to brush or dauber or sponge or any other way.

Third . . . if you are using Resolene . . . give it a once over quick rub off . . . apply Resolene (also a 50 /50 mixture with water) . . . and go on with life.  Rub off will not come thru Resolene if it is applied right.

Basically you did a lot of work for nothing.

May God bless,

Dwight

[DwightT]

On 3/5/2023 at 9:31 PM, Dwight said:

To start with . . . you should never use Feibings dye straight 100% as it is in the bottle . . . always thin it down . . . most do a 50 / 50 dye and thinner.

Second . . . apply neatsfoot oil before you dye the project  . . .  and dip dying is far superior to brush or dauber or sponge or any other way.

Third . . . if you are using Resolene . . . give it a once over quick rub off . . . apply Resolene (also a 50 /50 mixture with water) . . . and go on with life.  Rub off will not come thru Resolene if it is applied right.

Basically you did a lot of work for nothing.

May God bless,

Dwight

Why the 50/50 dilution for the dye?  Not looking to start an argument, but I've seen others mention that and I can't remember seeing the reasoning behind it.  I typically use it straight from the bottle, but I'm using an artist's brush to apply it to a small area.  Is the 50/50 limitation only applicable when you are dying the entire piece?

And why the dilution for the Resolene?  Since that is a sealant, wouldn't you want it full strength for the best effect?

    /dwight

[Littlef]

33 minutes ago, DwightT said:

Why the 50/50 dilution for the dye?  Not looking to start an argument, but I've seen others mention that and I can't remember seeing the reasoning behind it.  I typically use it straight from the bottle, but I'm using an artist's brush to apply it to a small area.  Is the 50/50 limitation only applicable when you are dying the entire piece?

And why the dilution for the Resolene?  Since that is a sealant, wouldn't you want it full strength for the best effect?

    /dwight

I'm a newby, but from my experience in the handful of projects I've done, I found if I use full strength dye, it dyes the leather to a completely opaque color.  In addition, I had problems with dye rubbing off.  And it continued no matter how much I tried to buff it off.   - I started cutting my dye with alcohol, and I can now see the leather grain through the dye.  I can also repeat multiple coats and bring it darker if need be.... but you certainly can't lighten it once a heavy dye is applied.  

Resolene seems to work similarly.  I started using full strength, and it works, but I'd get splotches, and it was tough to get even coverage.  I started diluting it 50/50 - not measuring, just eyeballing it...  and it seems to me to absorb quicker, dry quicker, and dry more evenly.  I saw a benefit in diluting it.

[Doc Reaper]

For those that want to try this method be smart and use a baby food jar to store the mixture and clearly mark it 50/50 and what is cut with

[fredk]

2 hours ago, DwightT said:

Why the 50/50 dilution for the dye?  Not looking to start an argument, but I've seen others mention that and I can't remember seeing the reasoning behind it.  I typically use it straight from the bottle, but I'm using an artist's brush to apply it to a small area.  Is the 50/50 limitation only applicable when you are dying the entire piece?

And why the dilution for the Resolene?  Since that is a sealant, wouldn't you want it full strength for the best effect?

    /dwight

In my experience, the diluted dye soaks into the leather better, giving a better distribution of the dye thru the leather. If you take a brush full of dye most of it will be just where you first place the brush on the leather.  You sort-of get a 'hot spot' of concentrated colour. If the dye is diluted you'll still get the 'hot spot' but it is less strong as the diluted dye can get absorbed by the leather better. and spreads out more. Less dye required to even out the colour and get rid of those 'hot spots'.  Also dampening your leather before application of dye opens up the leather fibres and helps the dye distribute thru the leather

Same reason for resolene. My resolene is thick. Straight from the bottle it doesn't soak into the leather. It just coats the top surface.  Diluted it soaks into the leather better and gets down deeper into the leather sealing the dye that has gone deeper

hth

Edited March 10, 2023 by fredk