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Posted

Hey, lately I've been experiencing strange skipped stitches, this happens very very rarely, but especially when doing a reverse. I've checked timing properly following the manual and adjusted it correctly. 

This still happens on some occasions, mostly when I transition from a thicker section to less bulky one. 

I sew canvas and Cordura with a 100/16 needle and size 50 thread. 

Can the skipping be due to the thicker material deflecting the needle? 

There's a little play in my need bar that might be doing this, but I am not 100% sure. 

Hook seems in a very good condition. 

Any suggestions is very welcomed, thank you

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Posted

Timing and space between needle 

IMG_20230412_183922.jpg

IMG_20230412_183903.jpg

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Posted

The picturs look ok to me. Are they taken as the needle is lifted 2 mm from the deepest point ?

Posted
11 hours ago, Sasho said:

I sew canvas and Cordura with a 100/16 needle and size 50 thread. 

Can the skipping be due to the thicker material deflecting the needle? 

How thick is the material? Have you tried using a 110/18 needle? Is the thread a bonded nylon or polyester?

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted
2 hours ago, leerling said:

The picturs look ok to me. Are they taken as the needle is lifted 2 mm from the deepest point ?

Hey, I've followed very pricesly the manual, using a caliper. Timing seems perfect

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Posted
1 hour ago, kgg said:

How thick is the material? Have you tried using a 110/18 needle? Is the thread a bonded nylon or polyester?

kgg

Usually 2 layers + 2 layers of inner lining and occasionally webbing between that, my skipped stitches are extremely rare, but happens 90% of these rare times when doing a reverse. 

 

I am using gutermann Tera which is

100 % polyester continuous filament 

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Posted

If your needle is set correctly and bobbin is feeding the right direction, tighten down on the presser foot. The project needs to maintain contact with the needle bed at all times. Not maintaining contact when the stitch is being made causes skipped stitches. 

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Posted

With triple feed and needle feed machines very often the side “play” from the needlebar can be removed very easy

see the picture

the part my screwdriver is on should move a little bit to the needlebar assembly 

the screws are on the backside

do not make it too tight ! (A litle bit of play is better for the machine)

82B7C727-D73C-4A57-8973-D12FD9FC3DBF.jpeg

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Posted
21 hours ago, Sasho said:

Usually 2 layers + 2 layers of inner lining and occasionally webbing between that, my skipped stitches are extremely rare, but happens 90% of these rare times when doing a reverse.

If you already timed the hook and needle as good as possible, experiment with changes to the check spring. There are usually three adjustments:

  1. You can change the distance the spring travels down to its resting position. The longer the throw, the longer the thread stays taut. Normally, the bottom stop is set to bottom out just after the needle enters the material. Its purpose is to prevent loose thread from getting split by the tip of the needle. Try more or less throw.
  2. The spring itself is attached to a split shaft that can be rotated for more or less spring tension. There's a set screw that holds the shaft in the preset position. Loosen the screw a little and try more or less spring tension.
  3. There is a screw inside a curved slot that lest you move the entire assembly to left or right. Typically, turning it all the way counterclockwise tightens the lay of the stitches. Turning it full clockwise loosens the lay of the thread. Normal is centered in the slot. Experiment!

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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