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Crockett

Ended up with a free JUKI 1541S

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I'm all new to this.

My business was looking into developing a new line of products (not leather related), and in order to get some prototypes out, we bought a JUKI 1541S in 2021. Fast forward a little over a year later and the China virus aftermath turned the business belly up after all, and the sewing machine remains in my home office.

After looking at it every day for a few month, I decided that I want to learn how to work with leather, and possibly start my own little business. My interest ranges from wallets, gun holsters, to certain auto upholstery like arm rests and smaller parts for camper conversions.

I installed a reduction pulley back in the day in order to slow it down. I oiled and tested it yesterday and it works as indented.

 

I tried to read up the things that I need and where to start, but got overwhelmed by the amount of information on this forum alone. So here a few first questions:

1.) Will the JUKI 1541S be a decent machine for my intended purposes? I'd hate having to invest that kind of money on another machine.

2.) What type of leather, threads, needles should I order, in order to get me started?

3.) What other tools will I need?

 

20230522_103101[1].jpg

Edited by Crockett

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On 5/22/2023 at 2:38 PM, Crockett said:

I tried to read up the things that I need and where to start, but got overwhelmed by the amount of information on this forum alone. So here a few first questions:

1.) Will the JUKI 1541S be a decent machine for my intended purposes? I'd hate having to invest that kind of money on another machine.

2.) What type of leather, threads, needles should I order, in order to get me started?

You have an excellent top quality machine. The Juki is the one that the clones typically copy. The Juki DNU-1541S is rated to handle V138 thread on top and in the bobbin in thick material not just by what thread can be stuffed through the max size needle it can handle. As far as needles for leatherwork buy 135X16 and buy good quality brand name needles like Schmetz. The machine can accommodate up to a size #24 needle. A good reference chart for needle to thread combination can be found at ( www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). The Juki DNU-1541S is an upholstery class machine which can handle up to 3/8" thick material.

The Juki DNU-1541S should be able to handle most things like wallets that are better done on a flatbed, depending on the style of armrests those are probably better done on a cylinder bed machine but it will not do for making gun holsters both on needed thread size and thickness requirements. To handle gun holsters you will need a class 441 machine like a Juki TSC-441 ($10k) or a similar clone ($3.5K).

Thread is inexpensive so spend the extra dollars and buy good quality brand name thread like A&E in 1 lb spools and save the frustration of dealing with the cheap Chinese stuff.

kgg

Edited by kgg

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7 hours ago, Crockett said:

53 views and not a single suggestion? :(

One reason could be that it should have been posted in the Leather Sewing Machine section (that's where the sewing machine aficionados hang out ;)). The people who are likely to respond may not have seen it here. Fortunately kgg saw it, he has "some" experience with Jukis. :lol:

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6 hours ago, kgg said:

You have an excellent top quality machine. The Juki is the one that the clones typically copy. The Juki DNU-1541S is rated to handle V138 thread on top and in the bobbin in thick material not just by what thread can be stuffed through the max size needle it can handle. As far as needles for leatherwork buy 135X16 and buy good quality brand name needles like Schmetz. The machine can accommodate up to a size #24 needle. A good reference chart for needle to thread combination can be found at ( www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). The Juki DNU-1541S is an upholstery class machine which can handle up to 3/8" thick material.

The Juki DNU-1541S should be able to handle most things like wallets that are better done on a flatbed, depending on the style of armrests those are probably better done on a cylinder bed machine but it will not do for making gun holsters both on needed thread size and thickness requirements. To handle gun holsters you will need a class 441 machine like a Juki TSC-441 ($10k) or a similar clone ($3.5K).

Thread is inexpensive so spend the extra dollars and buy good quality brand name thread like A&E in 1 lb spools and save the frustration of dealing with the cheap Chinese stuff.

kgg

Thank you so much, exactly the help I was looking for. I just replied to you via PM.

 

 

2 hours ago, dikman said:

One reason could be that it should have been posted in the Leather Sewing Machine section (that's where the sewing machine aficionados hang out ;)). The people who are likely to respond may not have seen it here. Fortunately kgg saw it, he has "some" experience with Jukis. :lol:

Got it. I'll start over in that forum, in case I need more help. kqq is helping me out for now.

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1 hour ago, Crockett said:

Got it. I'll start over in that forum, in case I need more help. kqq is helping me out for now.

Moved this thread to Leather Sewing Machines

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@Crockett

Know that just because your machine can clear 3/8 inch of material and sew it, that material can't be very dense and incompressible. So, while that machine can sew together 3/8 inch of upholstery leather, it can't do the same with hard veg-tan in a shaped holster. The moving parts aren't secured strongly enough to hold together under the strain of trying to penetrate that thickness of hard temper leather, especially if you are trying to sew with #207 thread using a #24 needle. The best you can hope for is the sew 1/4 to 5/16 inch with #138 thread, using a #23 needle. Number 138 (T135) bonded nylon thread has 22 pounds breaking strength. I wouldn't trust that size thread to hold a serious holster together unless you also rivet the layers in case the thread breaks under stress.

FYI: All of the holsters my partner and I produce are sewn with #277 thread, on top and bottom, using a #25 diamond or S point needle. I use a Cowboy CB4500 harness stitcher that I got from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines in 2011. Before that, I used a Union Lockstitch Machine for holsters, sheathes, weight belts, gun belts, and anything over 1/4 inch thick veg-tan. The thinnest holsters we make are 1/4 inch thick. The thickest was 1 inch. The average is 1/2 to 5/8 inch along the edge that has a filler for the trigger guard and bottom profile..

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On 5/22/2023 at 7:38 AM, Crockett said:

I'm all new to this.

My business was looking into developing a new line of products (not leather related), and in order to get some prototypes out, we bought a JUKI 1541S in 2021. Fast forward a little over a year later and the China virus aftermath turned the business belly up after all, and the sewing machine remains in my home office.

After looking at it every day for a few month, I decided that I want to learn how to work with leather, and possibly start my own little business. My interest ranges from wallets, gun holsters, to certain auto upholstery like arm rests and smaller parts for camper conversions.

I installed a reduction pulley back in the day in order to slow it down. I oiled and tested it yesterday and it works as indented.

 

I tried to read up the things that I need and where to start, but got overwhelmed by the amount of information on this forum alone. So here a few first questions:

1.) Will the JUKI 1541S be a decent machine for my intended purposes? I'd hate having to invest that kind of money on another machine.

2.) What type of leather, threads, needles should I order, in order to get me started?

3.) What other tools will I need?

-

also, work on accumulating some assortment of different presser feet, and pick-up a couple the factory center and outer foot sets, to cut and trim to your liking.
I keep an extra bobbin case in the drawer also. it is pre set on the tension, to #138 .  So it easier to just swap off bobbin thread going from t-70 to 138 .
1541s is a great everyday workhorse machine and versatile, never a day regret adding it to my stable.

Your machine tension setup on yours, looks different from one I have . my setup looks  like this one in this Juki 1541S cut/paste pic.
-
JUKI DNU-1541S Industrial Walking Foot Machine | GoldStar Tool
-
.

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6 hours ago, nylonRigging said:

Your machine tension setup on yours, looks different from one I have . my setup looks  like this one in this Juki 1541S cut/paste pic.

@nylonRiggingThe newer Juki DNU-1541 S machines have the tension setup now like the Juki LU-1508 / LU-1509 series. I don't remember when they changed but @Crockett machine is the same as mine which is about 4 or 5 years old.

I have seen that photo before but I never could track it down whether it was a real machine that went into production, a prototype or something else. If you look closely a few items jump out:

i) The bed base is extended out further to the left of the needle like that of the Juki LU-1508 / LU-1509.

ii) Two needle plates covers shown with the one on the right side of the needle with the catch spring being for a vertical drop in bobbin like the Juki LU-1508 / 1509 where as the Juki DNU 1541S has a fixed semi round needle plate on the right side of the needle. The Juki DNU 1541 has a horizontal bobbin case.

iii) The shape of the bed is scooped out to allow for the bobbin case plate removal.

iv) The number of holes for accepting various bolt down attachments is completely different then the Juki DNU-1541 series.

v) The real kicker for me is the nameplate as it clearly states it is Juki DNU-1541 but there is a safety clutch on the bed which was on the DNU-1541S and the DNU-1541-7 not the Juki DNU-1541.

kgg

 

 

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3 hours ago, kgg said:

I have seen that photo before but I never could track it down whether it was a real machine that went into production, a prototype or something else.

I wonder if it is a special model double needle machine? That would 'splain the second bobbin cover on the left.

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4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I wonder if it is a special model double needle machine?

I'm at a loss I guess it is possible. Maybe one of the dealers could answer.

kgg

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1 hour ago, kgg said:

I'm at a loss I guess it is possible. Maybe one of the dealers could answer.

kgg

All I know, is that having that particular tension plate assembly ( double knob ) is great because when swapping off from t-70 to #138 . All I have to do is just run thread routing off to the 2nd tension knob for that is already pre set . change needle, and I am sewing.

I am betting that any recent production 1541s  cast head with the single-knob . Can be easy swapped off to the other double knob assembly plate . If you look at the OP's pic. of his machine . You can even see the recessed indent in the casting above the assembly plate, for the small 'manual tension release lever' to fit into .
.

Edited by nylonRigging

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