Bartack machine not completing the back stich

[Cleggy]

Greetings to my fellow sewing enthusiasts,

I've been relying on my trusty bartack machine for stitching webbing and straps, and it's served me quite well. However, I've hit a bit of a snag lately. The machine has started acting up, failing to complete the back stitch and leaving a tangled mess of thread under the presser foot. I've tried installing two new drive belts, but it hasn't resolved the issue.

Is there anyone here who's familiar with Juki machines? This particular machine is a clone of the Juki 1850 model, and I could really use some guidance and expertise to get it back in working order.

Your assistance would be immensely appreciated.

Best regards,

[Northmount]

@Cleggy Moved your post to leather sewing machines.  Posts in Help require approval for every post.  It is more like the classified ads, looking for work, or looking for a worker to do something.

Even though this area is for leather sewing machines, it is the best place for help on all sewing machines.

 

[kgg]

3 hours ago, Cleggy said:

This particular machine is a clone of the Juki 1850 model

I know nothing about bar tackers but this manual may help.

lk1850.pdf

[Cleggy]

6 hours ago, kgg said:

I know nothing about bar tackers but this manual may help.

lk1850.pdf 3.8 MB · 0 downloads

Thanks Kgg, that's awesome information, very much apricated.  

[Uwe]

Great manual find @kgg ! 

 

A new needle may be all that’s need to fix the problem. The snag you hit may be an actual snag or a deformed needle tip. “If in doubt, change the needle” is generally good advice for sewing problems.

 

P.S.:

For those unfamiliar with the layout of Juki Engineering manuals, they’re intended to be read in side-by-side page mode to see two pages next to each other, like in an open binder or printed booklet. The standard adjustment info will be on the left, the how-to-adjust info on the right. That way the corresponding information lines up horizontally from left to right, especially if there are multiple adjustment topics on the same page. Depending on your PDF reader, that’s either easy or nearly impossible to do.

Example:

 

[gottaknow]

The 1850’s are workhorses and I’ve never worked on a clone. This issue is often caused by worn or glazed cork surfaces which causes slipping during the final barring stitches which is basically the stitch that secures the entire bartack. The other cause can be the push plate needs to be tightened. This can also cause the underbed thread trimmer to not cut clean. To test, cycle the machine with normal thickness under the clamp. I use the handle end of a large screwdriver to press on the push plate during the entire run cycle. If machine cycles normally and produces a quality tack, there’s your issue. As a side note, don’t over tighten the drive belts which can prevent the drive pulley from moving easily in and out. Have fun!
 

Regards, Eric 

[Wizcrafts]

On 9/15/2023 at 6:23 PM, gottaknow said:

Have fun!

Welcome back, Eric! We've missed your input.

[Constabulary]

14 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Welcome back, Eric! We've missed your input.

Indeed!!! 

[shoepatcher]

Eric,

 Good to have you back!!  Where were you all these years?   We both need and missed you!!

glenn

[Cleggy]

On 9/6/2023 at 3:12 PM, Uwe said:

Great manual find @kgg ! 

 

A new needle may be all that’s need to fix the problem. The snag you hit may be an actual snag or a deformed needle tip. “If in doubt, change the needle” is generally good advice for sewing problems.

 

P.S.:

For those unfamiliar with the layout of Juki Engineering manuals, they’re intended to be read in side-by-side page mode to see two pages next to each other, like in an open binder or printed booklet. The standard adjustment info will be on the left, the how-to-adjust info on the right. That way the corresponding information lines up horizontally from left to right, especially if there are multiple adjustment topics on the same page. Depending on your PDF reader, that’s either easy or nearly impossible to do.

Example:

 

Thanks, Installed a new needle, shuttle and bobbin holder, will look at resetting the clearances. thank you for your assistance.  

[Cleggy]

On 9/16/2023 at 10:23 AM, gottaknow said:

The 1850’s are workhorses and I’ve never worked on a clone. This issue is often caused by worn or glazed cork surfaces which causes slipping during the final barring stitches which is basically the stitch that secures the entire bartack. The other cause can be the push plate needs to be tightened. This can also cause the underbed thread trimmer to not cut clean. To test, cycle the machine with normal thickness under the clamp. I use the handle end of a large screwdriver to press on the push plate during the entire run cycle. If machine cycles normally and produces a quality tack, there’s your issue. As a side note, don’t over tighten the drive belts which can prevent the drive pulley from moving easily in and out. Have fun!
 

Regards, Eric 

Hi Eric,

thank you for the suggestions, sorry to show my lack of knowledge, but what would the cork surfaces be?

I will tighten the push plate, does it want to be super tight or just snug?

thanks again,

Iain

[Cleggy]

Hi All,

I would like to thank you all for your most helpful comments, such a friendly group on this forum.

The problem turned out to be the needle bar, the upper and lower marks are missing from my particular machine, I reset the height manually and it seems to work.

Have a great week everyone,

Iain 

New Zealand