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When I made my stacked leather handle for my mallet I glued them using PVA wood glue. I slid them onto a length of threaded rod and clamped them tight with nuts and washers, slowly tightening them as the leather compressed. If you tap a thread in the end of the handle (good idea) you could use this process directly on the mallet. I reckon a hex-head bolt would closer match the age of it than an Allen-head bolt.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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I like your idea of saving the rawhide.  That's some tough stuff.    Whacking a shader with a 120 y.o. mallet sounds like fun.  

 OTH, if you do decide to replace any rawhide pieces, you could use some rawhide dog treats.  Moisten it in water just until it's pliable, but don't soak it too much, you don't want it soggy (sort of like casing leather) then cut to shape, remembering that it will shrink as it dries.    You should be able to restore any damaged pieces that way.  But either way, I think the rawhide stack might benefit from some glue or shellac.

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That's what I used for my mallet head, finding rawhide here isn't easy so I just bought some rawhide dog bones. Took a bit of soaking to unwrap them but it worked great (and cheap).

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted (edited)

Ok gang, 

Thanks for all of the thoughts.  Good ideas on dog treats makes sense to me.   

So i decided mallet head as it was.  The end I made a brass washer and drilled and tapped the end for a tapered Allen head screw.  I chose not to glue the leather time will tell if that is a mistake.  From taking it apart my view was they did not glue either. I also chose to cold blue the metal parts which I like the darker.  Lastly.  I dyed the handle and then buffed it.    

It weighs in a 4.25lbs approx.

Should be good for years to come.  I enjoy fixing up old tools for use.  No money in it for sure but it is fun.  

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Edited by Northmount
Fixed typo - ot > it, reads easier
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Posted

Beautiful work. That brass end cap you made matches the whole thing perfectly. So it has an allen head inside it. It is a small concession to having it done like it is.

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Turned out REAL NICE !!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted
56 minutes ago, MarshalWill said:

Beautiful work. That brass end cap you made matches the whole thing perfectly. So it has an allen head inside it. It is a small concession to having it done like it is.

Yep this is what is inside the brass so to speak its Allen head to tighten and taper screw . Not sure what they r called.  Had them around the shop. Not period to it but I'm good with function!  Ignore my filthy hands I've been making knives to today. 

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Excellent job, should be good for another 100 years! I wondered what you meant by "tapered screw", we call those countersunk heads.:)

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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