What applicator do you use to apply pure Neatsfoot oil to grain and flesh side?

[jasonsmith]

I use Feibing's Pro Oil dye. I'm going to be dying both sides of the leather. And I see many talk about rubbing in some Pure Neatsfoot oil. So I got some as that is what I see people pretty much talk about. Though I believe there may be some other things out there too that would add some oils back into the leather.

I plan to dye first, let dry for a day and buff. Then add oil, I'm guessing just one thin coat, and let soak and buff and let sit for a day.. And then put Tokonole on the flesh side and burnish with a piece of glass. And then on the grain side after dying and oiling, that I'd brush on a sealer. Though I've read some say to only oil the flesh side? Would it be better if I only oiled the flesh side, or should be sides get it?

But I'm wondering what applicator do people generally use to apply Pure Neatsfoot on the grain and the flesh side of the leather?

I'd prefer the applicator to not leave a mess behind. I know the wool stuff can/does leave fibers behind. And recently I decided to try a high density sponge to apply dye to the flesh side, and the sponge pretty much was hard to use on the flesh side and had little pieces coming off. I had to give that up after dying 25% and go back to sponge brushes.

Thanks.

[Mablung]

I've just used a soft cotton rag torn from an old t-shirt.  That seems to work pretty well.  I have only used lambswool daubers to apply dye and haven't had any trouble with those, so I'd think they'd work well for oil as well.  That said, nearly anything will have fibers removed and held by the flesh side, especially on something like shoulders (which I've been using a lot lately), so I try to do as much from the grain side as I can.

[jasonsmith]

16 minutes ago, Mablung said:

I've just used a soft cotton rag torn from an old t-shirt.  That seems to work pretty well.  I have only used lambswool daubers to apply dye and haven't had any trouble with those, so I'd think they'd work well for oil as well.  That said, nearly anything will have fibers removed and held by the flesh side, especially on something like shoulders (which I've been using a lot lately), so I try to do as much from the grain side as I can.

They do have those cotton lined foam pads in the auto section that people use to apply wax to cars. But not sure how well that would work on the flesh side as it may keep getting hung up since the flesh side is kind of like sandpaper when trying to rub on it. So in that case, A t-shirt may work better since it may be able spread it better since a cotton shirt can more conform to the rough terrain compared to say one of those waxing pads.

Do you oil both the grain and flesh side? I have read of some saying just to do the flesh said. Which I'm not sure if that was so you don't put too much oil into the leather, or if they didn't want their colors darkened on the grain side. I only use Pro Oil Black, so making it darker would probably help hide any splotchiness.

Is there any good way to tell, after you've dyed the leather, if it needs oil added to it?

[Littlef]

I mainly use the cheap disposable paint brushes from the hardware store.  I have lambswool/fleece, but I mainly use those for applying dye.  I also have a bag of old t-shirts that I cut into rags that I use sometimes.

[chuck123wapati]

 a lot of the time I just use my hands. Especially on small stuff, sometimes a piece of paper towel folded up, sometimes a piece of cotton rag.

[Mablung]

36 minutes ago, jasonsmith said:

They do have those cotton lined foam pads in the auto section that people use to apply wax to cars. But not sure how well that would work on the flesh side as it may keep getting hung up since the flesh side is kind of like sandpaper when trying to rub on it. So in that case, A t-shirt may work better since it may be able spread it better since a cotton shirt can more conform to the rough terrain compared to say one of those waxing pads.

Do you oil both the grain and flesh side? I have read of some saying just to do the flesh said. Which I'm not sure if that was so you don't put too much oil into the leather, or if they didn't want their colors darkened on the grain side. I only use Pro Oil Black, so making it darker would probably help hide any splotchiness.

Is there any good way to tell, after you've dyed the leather, if it needs oil added to it?

T-shirts are smoother and less likely to get caught on the flesh side fibers.  In my limited experience with NFO, the blotchiness is easily avoided by (1) not loading the rag/other applicator too heavily, as that will produce a hot spot of oil just like with dye, and (2) rubbing a drier corner of the cloth over any spots with more oil---if those spots are rubbed, the cloth seems to pick some oil back off the surface of the leather and distributes it more evenly.  I also put a couple light coats so that I can start the second coat in an area that received less oil the first time around, and that helps even out the color saturation.

My process is hardly well-refined, so maybe I'll change my mind on that, and lots here have more experience than I.

[jasonsmith]

One thing I forgot to mention is I had read of some saying to warm it up first. So I'd probably put some in a microwaveable plastic bowl and microwave it for like 10 seconds or so depending on how much is in it. Thanks.

Edited November 30, 2023 by jasonsmith

[Littlef]

1 hour ago, jasonsmith said:

They do have those cotton lined foam pads in the auto section that people use to apply wax to cars. But not sure how well that would work on the flesh side as it may keep getting hung up since the flesh side is kind of like sandpaper when trying to rub on it. So in that case, A t-shirt may work better since it may be able spread it better since a cotton shirt can more conform to the rough terrain compared to say one of those waxing pads.

Do you oil both the grain and flesh side? I have read of some saying just to do the flesh said. Which I'm not sure if that was so you don't put too much oil into the leather, or if they didn't want their colors darkened on the grain side. I only use Pro Oil Black, so making it darker would probably help hide any splotchiness.

Is there any good way to tell, after you've dyed the leather, if it needs oil added to it?

 

I gauge how much oil is needed by how fast it absorbs.  I put on light coats.  The first couple coats soak in almost immediately.  After a couple coats, it starts taking longer to soak in.  It's not an exact science, but once it starts taking several seconds to soak in, I decide that's probably enough.  I typically only oil the grain side and not the flesh side.  I've noticed If I oil the flesh side , it gets saturated and mushy.  I can better control it by just applying to the grain side.

[jasonsmith]

Thanks. I'll have to do more research on if I want to put oil on both sides the flesh and the grain side. Never heard before of it making the flesh side mushy, so will have to do more research to see if I should just stick to oiling the grain side. What do the majority of people do here, both sides, or just the grain or just the flesh side, or no oil at all?

I'm getting back into leather as it's been near a decade, and I never put oil into the leather, but figure I may try it on a piece and see how it goes since I had seen several people talk about it, and decided to go with pure Neatsfoot oil, just because I saw it mentioned so much. But I plan to start trying to sell pieces, which is why I'm doing more search instead of just whatever making things for myself.

Pretty much I'm making arm gauntlets with spots and grommets, but went with a little thicker leather this time because of the spots prongs denting the leather on pieces I made years ago and because I needed the leather to hold a point and not get droopy.

[fredk]

1. warning, about warming. Heating the oil up in a microwave COOKS it. It warms up ok but each time its heated in a microwave it cooks. Bestest is to heat a jug of water in the micro then put your jar of NFO into that. The NFO doesn't need to be super-hot, just hot enough to flow nicely

[jasonsmith]

2 minutes ago, fredk said:

1. warning, about warming. Heating the oil up in a microwave COOKS it. It warms up ok but each time its heated in a microwave it cooks. Bestest is to heat a jug of water in the micro then put your jar of NFO into that. The NFO doesn't need to be super-hot, just hot enough to flow nicely

What I had planned to do is I have new small tupperware containers with lids. My plan was each time I make a new piece, I'd pour some of the neatsfoot into the tupperware, and then microwave that like 10 seconds or something. But I could just fill the sink up with hot water and set the container on the water with the lid on as it would float on top of the water and heat it up that way I guess.

How long do you normally leave the neatsfoot in hot water before you use it?

[fredk]

1. NFO is fats & oils. Cooking breaks own the integrity of the fats. Not exactly the same, put an egg in a micro for 10 sec. See how that changes, and 10 sec will hardly warm it

2. A jam jar 1/2 or 1/3 full of NFO placed in a jug of near boiling water should take just a few minutes to heat up. Do this whilst preparing your leather to receive its nutrition and you won't notice the time

Edited December 1, 2023 by fredk

[jasonsmith]

10 minutes ago, fredk said:

1. NFO is fats & oils. Cooking breaks own the integrity of the fats. Not exactly the same, put an egg in a micro for 10 sec. See how that changes, and 10 sec will hardly warm it

2. A jam jar 1/2 or 1/3 full of NFO placed in a jug of near boiling water should take just a few minutes to heat up. Do this whilst preparing your leather to receive its nutrition and you won't notice the time

Thanks. What I'll do is run hot water in the sink and let it sit in there for several minutes. The water going to my sink can get pretty hot.

Just wondering. When you do Neatsfoot, are you putting it on both sides of the leather, or do you just do one side? And what applicator do you use? i.e. a tshirt?

[fredk]

1. Just on the flesh side

2. I often use a 1/2 inch paint bush

3. Be careful;  its too easy to put too much on. Too much NFO is near impossible to remove and then your work is ruined. Use very little. Depending on the size of your piece one or two brush fulls, in the centre, should be sufficient  You want to see it disappear. Its there, working deep inside the leather

[jrdunn]

1 hour ago, jasonsmith said:

Thanks. What I'll do is run hot water in the sink and let it sit in there for several minutes. The water going to my sink can get pretty hot.

Just wondering. When you do Neatsfoot, are you putting it on both sides of the leather, or do you just do one side? And what applicator do you use? i.e. a tshirt?

Just an FYI, very hot tap water is in the 110-130 F range.  Water boils at 210 F.  That's a pretty big difference.  I usually only put NFO on the grain side.  It quite a bit easier to get too much on the flesh side(more absorbent).  I also put it on before dying.  It helps prevent blotches.  Probably not an issue with black.  JM2C, Jim

[Handstitched]

I just use scraps of  (trimmed)  sheep skin cut into about 2-3" squares, for NF oil, dyes, and sealers  etc.. A few fibres are not that much of an issue, they come right off. 

The NF oil that I have  is a bit thick, so, I just thin it out with a little bit of metho , works fine    Theres no way I'll be heating it up , too dangerous . 

HS 

[jasonsmith]

5 minutes ago, Handstitched said:

I just use scraps of  (trimmed)  sheep skin cut into about 2-3" squares, for NF oil, dyes, and sealers  etc.. A few fibres are not that much of an issue, they come right off. 

The NF oil that I have  is a bit thick, so, I just thin it out with a little bit of metho , works fine    Theres no way I'll be heating it up , too dangerous . 

HS 

The Neatsfoot oil I have is the Feibing's pure. I originally got the Compound but then read of people saying not to use that version. So I took it back and exchanged it.

I've been using sponge painters brush to do the dye, but I get some streaks, and so want to be able to do circular method. And so will probably switch over the pieces of wool or something similar where I think you are less likely to get streaks. Not sure if I'd use the wool for the sealer as I'd think you'd get the fibers stuck in the sealer. Last time I did leather work, I used sponge painters brush to do the sealer.

[bruce johnson]

 fine nap paint roller. Roll off as much excess as you can it seems like the right amount for each coat to me. Goes on pretty even without swirl or overlap marks. My wife uses a clipped woolskin scrap pad on single projects. . 

[jasonsmith]

49 minutes ago, bruce johnson said:

 fine nap paint roller. Roll off as much excess as you can it seems like the right amount for each coat to me. Goes on pretty even without swirl or overlap marks. My wife uses a clipped woolskin scrap pad on single projects. . 

I looked it up and I may pick one up to try out as it's not too expensive. I think what I'd do is get two trays. And pour some oil in one tray to soak the roller. And then use the 2nd tray to squeeze out the oil so the roller isn't soaked in oil. Maybe I'd use some kraft paper to roll off the excess oil before rolling it on the leather.

As a roller would work out I think since my leather pieces are cut from a 12" x 12" piece of leather. Just curious, when you apply Neatsfoot oil. Do you apply it to both sides, or just one side? I'm thinking of maybe just doing the grain side as I know the flesh side can be tricky messing with. As I'll be dying mine black, but it can sometimes come out uneven where I'm hoping the Neatsfoot would darken it more and even it out some.

I did learn from a mistake. I cut all the slits for my spots, then dyed the flesh side. And did the Tokonole with glass on the flesh side. And I think the Tokonole got through the slits and made the black dye on the grain side to all weird looking in the areas around the slits. So that piece is ruined.

Next piece I do, I'm going to dye the flesh side, do the Tokonole and smooth with glass, and then I'll dye the grain side, do the Neatsfoot, then punch my slits and punch my holes and finish it with a top coat on the grain side. And after I cut it all out, I'll have to dye the edges and maybe wipe on some Tokonole on the edges just to seal off the dye.

[jasonsmith]

I came across this foam roller at Wal-Mart in the hobby section. The foam is 3/8" thick on one side. Might could do well as a way to dye larger pieces of leather. Though may lose die to the foam unless you could squish it out and back into the bottle via a funnel. But will experiment using it to spread a thin layer of pure neats foot oil on the grain side a day or so after dying:

Hello Hobby 2 Pc Foam Paint Brush Set with Handle, 2.25" - Walmart.com

[JLSleather]

On 11/30/2023 at 9:26 AM, Mablung said:

I've just used a soft cotton rag torn from an old t-shirt.

Exactly this. I've tried various things, but this one has always been the one I go back to.  And I use oil ONLY on the grain side.  It will work its way through well enough.  Tough to "spread" it on teh flesh side.  And less is better. You can always add and apply more, but if you go too far you have a problem.

Don't worry if it's "uneven".. it will even out quickly.

[Dwight]

On 11/30/2023 at 9:31 AM, jasonsmith said:

I use Feibing's Pro Oil dye. I'm going to be dying both sides of the leather. And I see many talk about rubbing in some Pure Neatsfoot oil. So I got some as that is what I see people pretty much talk about. Though I believe there may be some other things out there too that would add some oils back into the leather.

I plan to dye first, let dry for a day and buff. Then add oil, I'm guessing just one thin coat, and let soak and buff and let sit for a day.. And then put Tokonole on the flesh side and burnish with a piece of glass. And then on the grain side after dying and oiling, that I'd brush on a sealer. Though I've read some say to only oil the flesh side? Would it be better if I only oiled the flesh side, or should be sides get it?

 

Just a couple notes on neatsfoot oil.

First . . . I oil the leather before dyeing it . . . the leather is almost always "dry" and could use a tad of oil to bring it up to par.

That oiling FIRST . . . allows the oil based dye to spread thru the oil in the leather . . . and will result in much more level looking dye jobs . . . especially if you are willing to dye it right . . . which is to dunk dye it.  Submerge the piece in the dye . . . cut 50/50 with dye thinner . . . and you will really like the smooth and level dye job you get there.  Any other type of dyeing just results in a thin dye color laying on top of the leather . . . and the worst offender there is the air brush method.  One good scratch on a piece of air brushed leather will scrub off the dye and bare leather will shine thru.

Second . . . I never oil the flesh side . . . only the hair side.  Oiling the flesh side can result in too much oil for the project . . . resulting in a flimsy leather piece.

Third . . . I buy cheap 1 inch paint brushes from Harbor Freight . . . and I use them for doing the oiling.  Simply brush on one wet coat . . . don't get serious with that . . . just one wet coat over the whole outside of the project . . . that is the hair side.

Fourth . . . if your oil is in a room that is  70 degrees or more . . . you do not need to warm it up.  Simply brush it on . . . come back tomorrow about this time . . . you will have a piece of leather that will work well for your  project.

Feibings Saddle tan is one of the trickiest of their dyes I've ever used.   I have to follow this process if I want my Saddle tan to turn out right for me.  Why???   I don't know for sure . . . but after some serious practice and investigation . . . I found that this is the process that works for it.

I then transferred it to all my other dye jobs . . . and even they look better now.

Anyway . . . have fun . . . may God bless,

Dwight

[jasonsmith]

2 hours ago, Dwight said:

Just a couple notes on neatsfoot oil.

First . . . I oil the leather before dyeing it . . . the leather is almost always "dry" and could use a tad of oil to bring it up to par.

That oiling FIRST . . . allows the oil based dye to spread thru the oil in the leather . . . and will result in much more level looking dye jobs . . . especially if you are willing to dye it right . . . which is to dunk dye it.  Submerge the piece in the dye . . . cut 50/50 with dye thinner . . . and you will really like the smooth and level dye job you get there.  Any other type of dyeing just results in a thin dye color laying on top of the leather . . . and the worst offender there is the air brush method.  One good scratch on a piece of air brushed leather will scrub off the dye and bare leather will shine thru.

Second . . . I never oil the flesh side . . . only the hair side.  Oiling the flesh side can result in too much oil for the project . . . resulting in a flimsy leather piece.

Third . . . I buy cheap 1 inch paint brushes from Harbor Freight . . . and I use them for doing the oiling.  Simply brush on one wet coat . . . don't get serious with that . . . just one wet coat over the whole outside of the project . . . that is the hair side.

Fourth . . . if your oil is in a room that is  70 degrees or more . . . you do not need to warm it up.  Simply brush it on . . . come back tomorrow about this time . . . you will have a piece of leather that will work well for your  project.

Feibings Saddle tan is one of the trickiest of their dyes I've ever used.   I have to follow this process if I want my Saddle tan to turn out right for me.  Why???   I don't know for sure . . . but after some serious practice and investigation . . . I found that this is the process that works for it.

I then transferred it to all my other dye jobs . . . and even they look better now.

Anyway . . . have fun . . . may God bless,

Dwight

I couldn't really do a dip die as my pieces are 12"x12" wide. So, just too much dye needed for dip die method. Though, I only use Pro Oil black, so easier to get a more even coverage since it's black.

Edited December 11, 2023 by jasonsmith

[Double Daddy]

I use sheep sheering (I buy it in bulk quantity just for this purpose and for dying large pieces when I don't have the capacity to dip them)...only apply pure neatsfoot oil (not that compound stuff) to the hair side like Dwight said above, never the fleshy/split side...that side is WAY too thirsty for oil.

[jasonsmith]

1 hour ago, Double Daddy said:

I use sheep sheering (I buy it in bulk quantity just for this purpose and for dying large pieces when I don't have the capacity to dip them)...only apply pure neatsfoot oil (not that compound stuff) to the hair side like Dwight said above, never the fleshy/split side...that side is WAY too thirsty for oil.

Do you mean sheep skin pieces that still have hair on it? What about the fake wool stuff they sell as that is easy to get.