What applicator do you use to apply pure Neatsfoot oil to grain and flesh side?

[JLSleather]

On 11/30/2023 at 9:26 AM, Mablung said:

I've just used a soft cotton rag torn from an old t-shirt.

Exactly this. I've tried various things, but this one has always been the one I go back to.  And I use oil ONLY on the grain side.  It will work its way through well enough.  Tough to "spread" it on teh flesh side.  And less is better. You can always add and apply more, but if you go too far you have a problem.

Don't worry if it's "uneven".. it will even out quickly.

[Dwight]

On 11/30/2023 at 9:31 AM, jasonsmith said:

I use Feibing's Pro Oil dye. I'm going to be dying both sides of the leather. And I see many talk about rubbing in some Pure Neatsfoot oil. So I got some as that is what I see people pretty much talk about. Though I believe there may be some other things out there too that would add some oils back into the leather.

I plan to dye first, let dry for a day and buff. Then add oil, I'm guessing just one thin coat, and let soak and buff and let sit for a day.. And then put Tokonole on the flesh side and burnish with a piece of glass. And then on the grain side after dying and oiling, that I'd brush on a sealer. Though I've read some say to only oil the flesh side? Would it be better if I only oiled the flesh side, or should be sides get it?

 

Just a couple notes on neatsfoot oil.

First . . . I oil the leather before dyeing it . . . the leather is almost always "dry" and could use a tad of oil to bring it up to par.

That oiling FIRST . . . allows the oil based dye to spread thru the oil in the leather . . . and will result in much more level looking dye jobs . . . especially if you are willing to dye it right . . . which is to dunk dye it.  Submerge the piece in the dye . . . cut 50/50 with dye thinner . . . and you will really like the smooth and level dye job you get there.  Any other type of dyeing just results in a thin dye color laying on top of the leather . . . and the worst offender there is the air brush method.  One good scratch on a piece of air brushed leather will scrub off the dye and bare leather will shine thru.

Second . . . I never oil the flesh side . . . only the hair side.  Oiling the flesh side can result in too much oil for the project . . . resulting in a flimsy leather piece.

Third . . . I buy cheap 1 inch paint brushes from Harbor Freight . . . and I use them for doing the oiling.  Simply brush on one wet coat . . . don't get serious with that . . . just one wet coat over the whole outside of the project . . . that is the hair side.

Fourth . . . if your oil is in a room that is  70 degrees or more . . . you do not need to warm it up.  Simply brush it on . . . come back tomorrow about this time . . . you will have a piece of leather that will work well for your  project.

Feibings Saddle tan is one of the trickiest of their dyes I've ever used.   I have to follow this process if I want my Saddle tan to turn out right for me.  Why???   I don't know for sure . . . but after some serious practice and investigation . . . I found that this is the process that works for it.

I then transferred it to all my other dye jobs . . . and even they look better now.

Anyway . . . have fun . . . may God bless,

Dwight

[jasonsmith]

2 hours ago, Dwight said:

Just a couple notes on neatsfoot oil.

First . . . I oil the leather before dyeing it . . . the leather is almost always "dry" and could use a tad of oil to bring it up to par.

That oiling FIRST . . . allows the oil based dye to spread thru the oil in the leather . . . and will result in much more level looking dye jobs . . . especially if you are willing to dye it right . . . which is to dunk dye it.  Submerge the piece in the dye . . . cut 50/50 with dye thinner . . . and you will really like the smooth and level dye job you get there.  Any other type of dyeing just results in a thin dye color laying on top of the leather . . . and the worst offender there is the air brush method.  One good scratch on a piece of air brushed leather will scrub off the dye and bare leather will shine thru.

Second . . . I never oil the flesh side . . . only the hair side.  Oiling the flesh side can result in too much oil for the project . . . resulting in a flimsy leather piece.

Third . . . I buy cheap 1 inch paint brushes from Harbor Freight . . . and I use them for doing the oiling.  Simply brush on one wet coat . . . don't get serious with that . . . just one wet coat over the whole outside of the project . . . that is the hair side.

Fourth . . . if your oil is in a room that is  70 degrees or more . . . you do not need to warm it up.  Simply brush it on . . . come back tomorrow about this time . . . you will have a piece of leather that will work well for your  project.

Feibings Saddle tan is one of the trickiest of their dyes I've ever used.   I have to follow this process if I want my Saddle tan to turn out right for me.  Why???   I don't know for sure . . . but after some serious practice and investigation . . . I found that this is the process that works for it.

I then transferred it to all my other dye jobs . . . and even they look better now.

Anyway . . . have fun . . . may God bless,

Dwight

I couldn't really do a dip die as my pieces are 12"x12" wide. So, just too much dye needed for dip die method. Though, I only use Pro Oil black, so easier to get a more even coverage since it's black.

Edited December 11, 2023 by jasonsmith

[Double Daddy]

I use sheep sheering (I buy it in bulk quantity just for this purpose and for dying large pieces when I don't have the capacity to dip them)...only apply pure neatsfoot oil (not that compound stuff) to the hair side like Dwight said above, never the fleshy/split side...that side is WAY too thirsty for oil.

[jasonsmith]

1 hour ago, Double Daddy said:

I use sheep sheering (I buy it in bulk quantity just for this purpose and for dying large pieces when I don't have the capacity to dip them)...only apply pure neatsfoot oil (not that compound stuff) to the hair side like Dwight said above, never the fleshy/split side...that side is WAY too thirsty for oil.

Do you mean sheep skin pieces that still have hair on it? What about the fake wool stuff they sell as that is easy to get.

[Double Daddy]

14 hours ago, jasonsmith said:

Do you mean sheep skin pieces that still have hair on it? What about the fake wool stuff they sell as that is easy to get.

Yeah, that stuff...I'm probably not calling it by the correct name. I have no idea about the "fake wool" stuff you speak/type of. I also have a tendency to re-purpose old socks/t-shirts...I just ask The Missus to launder them clean and then I keep them separate for use as shop rags, etc.

[Frodo]

I use a sponge,  one of those yellow with a green pad on the obverse 

[jasonsmith]

3 hours ago, Frodo said:

I use a sponge,  one of those yellow with a green pad on the obverse 

scotch-brite sponge? How many uses to you get out of it? Are you able to brush on an even coating that way?

[chuck123wapati]

I think one of these days I'm gonna try a spray bottle.

[Frodo]

18 hours ago, jasonsmith said:

scotch-brite sponge? How many uses to you get out of it? Are you able to brush on an even coating that way?

 How many?  A bunch 

also use the scrubby thing to do some finish sanding

i get an even coat by applying in a circular motion

in also steal. My wife’s round cotton things she removes war paint with. You get a big bag of them for a couple of bucks, at the dollar store

18 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

I think one of these days I'm gonna try a spray bottle.

I tried that, oil kept clogging up the spray hole.  Might have been the cheap sprayer I was using, I dunno