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toxo

My 1st attempt at piping.

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It's not too bad from ten feet but I don't care, I've learned so much. I like to challenge myself and this was a challenge . I even made the leather strap thing that goes around the cord and joined the pieces together with that diagonal/right angle thing. I didn't do myself any favours with a fairly tight curve and those corners were tough. Even though I skived everything it's difficult to find the piping under the second piece of leather and it's a constant worry that you want to get as close to the piping as you can but you don't want to break the needle. Not sure if I was using the right size piping foot and I'm not sure sure if a piping foot is even needed with tight corners because they just wanna go straight on. I don't know if I'm brave enough to attempt the smaller pocket that sits in the middle of this one. 

Piping.jpg

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Looks good to me toxo. I think you did fine. @toxo what machine did you sew your bag up with? 

Thanks.

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10 hours ago, DieselTech said:

Looks good to me toxo. I think you did fine. @toxo what machine did you sew your bag up with? 

Thanks.

Thanks mate but I think you might be overdue a visit to the optician lol.

The machine choice was purely because of the presser feet. I have lots of em for the Durkopp 239 and the new machine but not so much for the Adler 69 and because it was "practice" the thread/colour didn't matter so much either so the turned edges were done on the 69 using the colour "Toast" and the piping foot was on the new machine using a blue thread which also tested the theory that, if done right you won't see the thread.

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Nice. 

Ok - million dollar question -- never done piping, I like the look - but... why piping ? Does it help structure? Look good? Opinions and facts welcome :)

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40 minutes ago, NatesLeatherGds said:

Nice. 

Ok - million dollar question -- never done piping, I like the look - but... why piping ? Does it help structure? Look good? Opinions and facts welcome :)

Well, if you want opinions, I got 'em!  Seriously, I think the piping "hides" the stitching on a turned item.  It should also protect the thread from abrading if exposed.  JM2C, Jim

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1 hour ago, NatesLeatherGds said:

Nice. 

Ok - million dollar question -- never done piping, I like the look - but... why piping ? Does it help structure? Look good? Opinions and facts welcome :)

This is a huge question. Firstly I'll repeat something I've often said,  there's not a lot of mystery to leathercraft, far more common sense and finding a way to fulfill a purpose. "Piping" covers a huge swathe of applications. Piping "cord" can be many things. I put the commas around the word because some piping uses no internal cord at all. Then there is the choice of the size of cord that's used according to the project. As an example I think the size I used here is bigger than I would like for that size of pocket. If doing it for real it would be smaller. What's the cord made of? This goes to some of your question @NatesLeatherGds, plastic cord could help hold up a bag made of thinner leather, some piping cord is made of soft cotton type material which might be useful along with a soft leather when you don't want chafing against someone's skin such as clothing or a nice collar maybe. Of course most piping is used as a decorative detail and can be very effective and not just on edges either. I'm getting excited about learning about double piping on bag panels. Check this out. Forgive the ads.

UPHOLSTERY TIPS - How you can make a double Piping - MECA - YouTube

Edited by toxo

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I am no expert at doing piping either but for what it is worth I do the front or back panel first with the piping marked out glued on the stitched around the edge to hold it firm as shown in these pictures -

This one shows the piping glued to attach to the back piece

DSC02461_resize.JPG

The corners have to be clipped to allow the piping to go around the tight curve

DSC02466_resize.JPG

The join overlap I do as shown

DSC02468_resize.JPG

I then stitch around the outer edge

DSC02476_resize.JPG

I then attach with clips the panel to the gusset as shown -

DSC02481_resize.JPG

This video shows the next step sewing the pieces together

After that I run a binder tape around on the inside as shown in this video -

The finished bag which is only a prototype at this stage hence a bit ordinary.

DSC02498_resize.JPG

Hope that is of some help.

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1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

I am no expert at doing piping either but for what it is worth I do the front or back panel first with the piping marked out glued on the stitched around the edge to hold it firm as shown in these pictures -

This one shows the piping glued to attach to the back piece

DSC02461_resize.JPG

The corners have to be clipped to allow the piping to go around the tight curve

DSC02466_resize.JPG

The join overlap I do as shown

DSC02468_resize.JPG

I then stitch around the outer edge

DSC02476_resize.JPG

I then attach with clips the panel to the gusset as shown -

DSC02481_resize.JPG

This video shows the next step sewing the pieces together

After that I run a binder tape around on the inside as shown in this video -

The finished bag which is only a prototype at this stage hence a bit ordinary.

DSC02498_resize.JPG

Hope that is of some help.

@RockyAussie what class of cowboy sewing machine was you using in them sewing videos? 

Also where did you get your binder tape attachment? 

Thanks. Great videos by the way. 

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3 hours ago, DieselTech said:

@RockyAussie what class of cowboy sewing machine was you using in them sewing videos? 

Also where did you get your binder tape attachment?

There are 2 different machines in use on them. The one with the binding tape is an Elizabeth TK-335 which is basically a copy of the Pfaff 335. The machine came with the binding parts already on it and the tape folding part came from the dealer but they are pretty common to get over the net. The Cowboy one is a CB246 which is basically a copy of a Juki machine. I believe they don't stock them in the States but Techsew have a version which is 2600 if you want to check them out. This video I did awhile back shows some of the features I think are important -

 

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I have been wanting to do piping, but I don't know where to find affordable setups for a cowboy 4500, I'm open for suggestions 

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OK, just to clarify a few things. As you can see on Brian's stills, the piping cord is attached to the good side of the leather. Good lob on the piping cord join @RockyAussie. On the video you're looking at the flesh side so it's right side to right side. There's a piping foot on the machine which has a tunnel underneath to trap the piping cord. If you look closely you can see the impression of the cord under the leather as the foot travels over it. If you're making a bag you are doing all this with the bag inside out and you have to leave an opening somewhere to be able to turn the bag rightside out. The binding is happening on the inside of the bag which not everyone bothers with because it's not seen. Just another piece of class from Brian.

My Adler 69 is virtually the same as the Pfaff 335 and I have all the binding stuff for it including the main plate which is why that machine has to stay along with the new one.

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46 minutes ago, Doc Reaper said:

I have been wanting to do piping, but I don't know where to find affordable setups for a cowboy 4500, I'm open for suggestions 

You could just buy piping feet in different sizes Doc but lots of people do it with ordinary feet, usually a zipper foot for the second stitch because that needs to be real close to the cord else the stitches will show on the finished job.

The piping cord you can buy ready made but most of it is fabric or faux leather. You get more satisfaction if you make your own. Try this..  Cut a piece of thin leather or skive it say a foot long and about 1 1/2 inch wide. Take a length of weedwacker nylon (or anything else that resembles a cord hard or soft the same length. Put a line of glue down the center or use double sided tape. put some on the WW as well. Place the WW down the center and fold the leather over. You now have some piping cord. Take a piece of scrap same length. On the good side glue or d/sided tape or even just clips and get em edge to edge as in @RockyAussies vid and run a stitch to keep everything together. This stitch doesn't have to be close. Take another piece of scrap and clip it on top right side to right side edge to edge. Now run another stitch but thjis one needs to be as close as you  can get it to the cord with that zipper foot. You'll be surprised and impressed when you open it up.

Edited by toxo

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Cheap weed eater/string trimmer line works good for making piping. 

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Thanks all! I get it, useful, decorative -- depends :) 

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14 hours ago, toxo said:

You could just buy piping feet in different sizes Doc but lots of people do it with ordinary feet, usually a zipper foot for the second stitch because that needs to be real close to the cord else the stitches will show on the finished job.

The piping cord you can buy ready made but most of it is fabric or faux leather. You get more satisfaction if you make your own. Try this..  Cut a piece of thin leather or skive it say a foot long and about 1 1/2 inch wide. Take a length of weedwacker nylon (or anything else that resembles a cord hard or soft the same length. Put a line of glue down the center or use double sided tape. put some on the WW as well. Place the WW down the center and fold the leather over. You now have some piping cord. Take a piece of scrap same length. On the good side glue or d/sided tape or even just clips and get em edge to edge as in @RockyAussies vid and run a stitch to keep everything together. This stitch doesn't have to be close. Take another piece of scrap and clip it on top right side to right side edge to edge. Now run another stitch but thjis one needs to be as close as you  can get it to the cord with that zipper foot. You'll be surprised and impressed when you open it up.

Thanks, I'm thinking of longer lengths of piping, I got ripped of by a posting on FB, but now I poke the grass to look for snakes

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6 hours ago, Doc Reaper said:

Thanks, I'm thinking of longer lengths of piping, I got ripped of by a posting on FB, but now I poke the grass to look for snakes

A quick vid. It's fabric but apart from the first bit about bias it's exactly the same for leather.

Upholstery Basics: How to Make Single Welt Cording/Piping (youtube.com)

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