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  • CFM
Posted

she's a keeper for sure!!! very nice

 

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

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Posted

Looks much better than my effort! :specool: I would have put the clamp screw a bit higher, to exert more pressure when it's operated and put a spring around the screw between the uprights, then when you release the clamp it pushes the jaws apart. At least, that's what I did on mine.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted

Where do ya find the tightening hardware????

Doc Reaper

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Posted
19 hours ago, MarshalWill said:

Looks mighty usable. Nice job.

Thank you, Marshal.

7 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

she's a keeper for sure!!! very nice

Thanks, Chuck.

7 hours ago, dikman said:

Looks much better than my effort! :specool: I would have put the clamp screw a bit higher, to exert more pressure when it's operated and put a spring around the screw between the uprights, then when you release the clamp it pushes the jaws apart. At least, that's what I did on mine.

Thank you, dikman. I like your idea of adding a compression spring on the center bolt between the vertical clamp arms. I'll add a spring to my pony! Here's a link to Home Depot's selection of compression springs.
 

3 hours ago, Doc Reaper said:

Where do ya find the tightening hardware????

Hi Doc,

Search for cam clamping levers on Google to explore multiple suppliers. I bought mine from Lee Valley Hardware near Vancouver, BC. The knob that fits the 1/4"-20 carriage bolt is available at Home Depot (with link to their knobs). For the clamping mechanism, I used a 6" carriage bolt, which I trimmed to the needed length. The bolt's rounded end should be positioned at the knob side of the pony. Typically, the knob is adjusted on the carriage bolt so that the rounded end protrudes slightly from the back of the knob, but not so much that it could snag your thread. To adjust the clamp for the leatherwork I am stitching, I begin with the cam clamp in the closed position. I then rotate the knob clockwise or counterclockwise to open or close the jaws of the pony, allowing me to insert the leather. After placing the leather pieces, I tighten the knob to secure them. To reposition the leather for more stitching, I use the cam clamp to open the jaws by about 1/4", move the leather as needed, and then close the cam clamp again. I plan to buy some blue Loctite thread locker to secure the bolt end that threads into the cam lock, preventing it from moving too far into the cam lock thread, which would limit the lever's movement.

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Posted

I've been reflecting on the design of stitching ponies and what an ideal design might entail. While searching for "leather stitching pony" on Google, I noticed that most have large, substantial jaws, some with a surface area measuring 4" x 4" or more. I also came across a model with a bench vice-like handle to tighten the clamp on the leather being stitched. These observations have led me to question my own design, where the clamp jaws are rounded like fingertips and offer a much smaller surface area to hold the pieces you're stitching. My design is inspired by the sleek, minimalistic style of this Saddler's Clam and is intended to allow maximum distance between the jaws and the center bolt for stitching larger designs. However, I'm wondering if this is the right approach.

Additionally, I'm curious about the amount of clamping pressure needed to securely hold leather pieces for stitching. Is it necessary to use substantial jaws that apply significant pressure, as seen in most designs? This exploration is quite new to me since I've only made two wallets and a messenger bag so far.

What are your thoughts on the ideal stitching pony, considering there may not be one perfect design for all types of leather crafting?

On a personal note, I enjoy my retirement as it gives me the freedom to devote time to family, community, and projects like this. My background in woodworking has been helpful, and now I have the opportunity to engage in more precise work and experiment with my ideas.

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Posted

I doubt if there's an "ideal" design for a stitching pony, like many things they can be made to suit specific needs. As a general purpose one I think yours looks about right, with the design of the jaws allowing for holding different shapes. Mine is roughly the size of yours and I've made several western-style holsters on it (they can be tricky to clamp) and associated gunbelts. For the gunbelts longer jaws would have been nice but then they might have been a nuisance on other projects. 

As for clamping pressure, that will vary depending on the project, which is why the adjustable locking lever is good, just tighten or loosen as required. And when stitching long runs the thread WILL get caught on the locking lever!!!!

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted
16 hours ago, dikman said:

And when stitching long runs the thread WILL get caught on the locking lever!!!!

Ah, yes! This has already happened. This stitching pony I found on Etsy very cleverly avoids protrusions that will catch your thread. Looks like it is made by a seasoned wood/leather worker. I think I should have started this topic in the Leather Tools forum. :rolleyes2:

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Posted

You can put a piece of leather over the parts where the thread catches to deflect it (guess how I know).

Huge jaws are definitely not necessary (unless you are working huge pieces) but looking at your design I wonder how far the jaws actually open?  You may not always sew two flat pieces together. 

But the great thing about having made it yourself is that you can change it, or build another one, if you think of improvements. 

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Posted

Looks good … congrats!  If the upright pieces, rather than being straight, went up at a slight angle, like a V, you could make a leather loop to fit over the jaws and uprights.  It would slide up and down … slide it up to tighten the jaws and down to loosen them.  I have used this method on my stitching clam for years and it works great.

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