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SUP

Old tools with paint - what do I do?

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@chuck123wapati if that is your opinion of me, and you do not like what I ask, you are welcome to stay out of any threads that I start. After all, my name is present, linked to the threads. I  am certain that the other old timers and everyone else  here can and have  judged me for themselves and you really do not need to try and color their opinions of me. Not everyone has their opinions colored like yours clearly are, seeing your current and earlier comments, here and elsewhere. We all have our opinions of people; not everyone airs them.

For that reason, I will not be responding to any more of your comments. It is not rudeness, but a desire to not have any unpleasantness in otherwise pleasant threads which are started to truly learn.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by SUP

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@dikman please rest assured, I will take care. You all had a first time of using a tool and I will too. I have the advantage of so many of you guiding and warning me at every step. 

Edited by SUP

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3 hours ago, SUP said:

@chuck123wapati if that is your opinion of me, and you do not like what I ask, you are welcome to stay out of any threads that I start. After all, my name is present, linked to the threads. I  am certain that the other old timers and everyone else  here can and have  judged me for themselves and you really do not need to try and color their opinions of me. Not everyone has their opinions colored like yours clearly are, seeing your current and earlier comments, here and elsewhere. We all have our opinions of people; not everyone airs them.

For that reason, I will not be responding to any more of your comments. It is not rudeness, but a desire to not have any unpleasantness in otherwise pleasant threads which are started to truly learn.

not trying to color anything for anyone I'm just trying to make you see that tool is unsafe at best. Like the signs(others posted) say a lost eye or missing body is much more unpleasant than I will ever make your day with a few words. But hopefully you will take heed and at least listen to them.

i can only judge your abilities by what you put out there but above and beyond that I've taught hundreds of illiterate inmates how to  use every tool imaginable. I never once told one of them to just give it go with a power tool without proper training. I'm sorry if your offended but i cant with good conscience tell you or anyone on the planet  for that matter that hopping onto this machine without training is a good idea.  As you admit not having any experience with any tools above the few leather tools you have bought especially power tools of this nature.

I have no problem staying out of your threads. ignore button is your friend as it is mine. Good luck

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The buffer pictured in this thread is in my shop, and while having used it for over 30 years I’ve never had it throw a blade. I have had small parts get caught and never to be found again. This thing turns at 3600 rpm at the shaft and I know of two knifemakers that were killed by having blade slung into them by either the same buffer or one similar. These large buffers are designed to be used more in a machine shop rather than in hobby endeavors. I think any buffer of any size is dangerous but so is running with scissors. When someone asks me what’s the most dangerous machine in your shop I tell them which ever one is currently running. The difference here really is that a bandsaw, drill press, milling machine or surface grinder will usually just mangle- cut off some fingers or blind you, a buffer can sling and object into your body or right thru your eye into your head and kill you. If your in your shop alone you could bleed out fast. I keep 3 tourniquets hung around my shop. Where I live, if you hear an ambulance…they’re probably too late for anyone out here. But back to your tools, somehow “removing paint” morphed into all kinds of things here. Heck, their hand tools just clean them up as best you can and use them. You can throw a dollar at a dime but your still going to have a dime in the end

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@bladegrinder That is so true. I can just as well use them cleaned without polishing. I would like to learn though. I do leatherwork for a hobby, so will need to think about it. The burnisher I have is the Tandy one. So it is small and will  take a buffer wheel but  I'm wondering about it after everyone warns of the dangers. At home, I cannot afford to have tools flying away, even if in the opposite direction - I have pets!

It took me a while to even recognize what a buffer is, because to me, a buffer is a reagent. Common sense told me it is a solid item but until I saw this photograph, I was unsure of how one looks or can look. (thank you @jrdunn for the photograph). I saw pics online but did not know which one is what I could use.

Anyway, I am busy setting up an electrolysis machine, which I have done before - earlier for iron pots but this one is smaller. Let's see how clean that makes the tools. 

I appreciate all the warnings - and will take care or maybe even avoid polishing with a buffer. I take all that I am told here very seriously because I know you all speak from experience and nothing beats that. Thank you all..

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Regarding Chuck (g'day mate ;)) I wouldn't take offense at what he said as I'm sure he didn't mean any. His comments are based on his experiences, as he explained, and he can only go by what you (or anyone) writes. As you're no doubt aware the written word is often misinterpreted and causes issues on forums as it doesn't necessarily convey what the person is like (or what their abilities/capabilities are). I'm sure he is only thinking of your well-being. 

Now, back to the subject matter, you can get a nice matte finish on steel by using fine grade wet and dry paper, used wet, and you can also get a nice blackened finish by heating it and dropping in oil (Linseed oil, olive oil, vegetable oil all work). Obviously heating a knife blade is not a good idea as you could destroy its temper. Another way is to use a blueing mix, as used for cold blueing firearms, no heat required (although warming the metal might help it to work better).

 

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@dikman you are clearly a kind person. It's a pleasure to talk to you.:) 

Thank you for the tip on wet and dry paper. I gather you mean sandpaper? I'll maybe try that first. Then the heating and oiling. Seem the safest!  I love that I learn so many new things here constantly.

Edited by SUP

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Many years ago when I was starting out as an engineer a friend recounted an episode in his workplace where a large grindstone exploded at high speed and spat out pieces and some of the were still spinning at high speed when they hit pretty much everything in the workshop.

This was a time when the foreman wore a white or a brown coat and tie. Me having a vivid imagination pondered how quickly these machines would take to grind your face away if a loose tie were to be grabbed by one of them. This image is why I don't underestimate any of these machines.

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1 hour ago, SUP said:

Thank you for the tip on wet and dry paper. I gather you mean sandpaper? I'll maybe try that first. Then the heating and oiling. Seem the safest!  I love that I learn so many new things here constantly.

2000 to 4000 grit.

 

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1 hour ago, toxo said:

Many years ago when I was starting out as an engineer a friend recounted an episode in his workplace where a large grindstone exploded at high speed and spat out pieces and some of the were still spinning at high speed when they hit pretty much everything in the workshop.

It's one thing for a surgeon to pull iron pieces out of an eye with the help of a magnet.  Doesn't work for grit from a grindstone.  Eyesight recovery is less likely.

I worked for a foreman that blew dust out of a hole he drilled to set an anchor in a brick wall.  The dust blew straight back into his eye and he didn't have it properly cared for.  (Was probably in the 50s or 60s when they didn't have all the capability for microsurgery we have today.)  Got infection in it and lost his eye.  Became known as One-Eyed Jake. 

The simple little things that we do without realizing how dangerous they really are when we should, with a little common sense, realize the likely risk.

 

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5 hours ago, Northmount said:

It's one thing for a surgeon to pull iron pieces out of an eye with the help of a magnet.  Doesn't work for grit from a grindstone.  Eyesight recovery is less likely.

I worked for a foreman that blew dust out of a hole he drilled to set an anchor in a brick wall.  The dust blew straight back into his eye and he didn't have it properly cared for.  (Was probably in the 50s or 60s when they didn't have all the capability for microsurgery we have today.)  Got infection in it and lost his eye.  Became known as One-Eyed Jake. 

The simple little things that we do without realizing how dangerous they really are when we should, with a little common sense, realize the likely risk.

 

Don't remind me! As a fabricator welder I had a season ticket to the Royal Eye Hospital at the Elephant & Castle in London. As you say, the powerful magnets don't work on non metallic and welding slag is just that. I remember well that black and chrome thing that you had to put your chin on. The surprising thing was, when he switched on the two really bright lights and came at you with a very sharp spikey thing and said DON'T MOVE, DON'T BLINK, despite water streaming down your face, you didn't, even as you felt the plucking at your eyeball.

I remember the first time, a black nurse put drops in my eye, put a pad over it and began winding a bandage around my head. I fainted.

The funny bit (In hindsight) was when I was waiting for the bus to get home. The road was quite wide and one way. The bus stop was placed so if your bus came around the corner you stuck your hand out and the bus would come over to the left to pick you up. If no hand was stuck out he would move over to the right hand side to turn right. I was there for a while because, by the time I could see what bus it was it was too late. He had gone over to the other side of the road ready to turn right. Eventually I stuck out my hand for every bus.

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@Northmount, @toxo wow. My eyes ache just reading about these experiences. My worst is mild comparatively - a klutz next to me in the lab, tipped over her spirit lamp onto my arm which caught fire - from elbow to fingers. I waved it around and the remaining spirit on my skin evaporated and the fire died out. Everyone else was transfixed with horror. My arm, amazingly, was fine - not a single burn.  Never sat next to her again.. no one did.

Anyway, leery about using spirit lamps since then.   

7 hours ago, Northmount said:

The simple little things that we do without realizing how dangerous they really are when we should, with a little common sense, realize the likely risk.

Yep, exactly. After over 4 decades of using pressure cookers, one of mine exploded some months ago. No idea why. Valves  worked fine. Vents clean and clear. Even with utmost care, accidents occur; all we can really do is think of all the risks and possibilities and try to prevent them.. and cross fingers and hope.

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These are small, low power, variable speed. Safer? Tough call, but you can slow it way down so it wont be as violent. But perhaps quicker than by hand..   https://www.amazon.com/OPAVIOC-Jewelry-Polisher-Adjustable-Polishing/dp/B09MNB2VJH/ref=asc_df_B09MNB2VJH?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80676783972125&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584276312388278&psc=1

Wet/dry "sandpaper" here is an inexpensive pack with the finer grits you will not find at a big box store. Automotive finishes stores have finer grits, parts stores have some    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JJ39YX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

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17 minutes ago, Wepster said:

These are small, low power, variable speed. Safer? Tough call, but you can slow it way down so it wont be as violent. But perhaps quicker than by hand..   https://www.amazon.com/OPAVIOC-Jewelry-Polisher-Adjustable-Polishing/dp/B09MNB2VJH/ref=asc_df_B09MNB2VJH?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80676783972125&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584276312388278&psc=1

Wet/dry "sandpaper" here is an inexpensive pack with the finer grits you will not find at a big box store. Automotive finishes stores have finer grits, parts stores have some    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JJ39YX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

along those same lines, Another option:  I don't have a bench grinder or a buffer,  but I do have a handheld dremel tool, which has grinding wheels and buffing pads.  Its sufficient for the "little" bit of occasional buffing and grinding I need to do.  

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1 hour ago, Wepster said:

Yes. I have something like that. I use it for edge burnishing larger items like bags. I should be able to get a buffer wheel for that.

 

1 hour ago, Littlef said:

Wet/dry "sandpaper" here is an inexpensive pack with the finer grits you will not find at a big box store. Automotive finishes stores have finer grits, parts stores have some    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JJ39YX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Ordering these now. :)

1 hour ago, Littlef said:

along those same lines, Another option:  I don't have a bench grinder or a buffer,  but I do have a handheld dremel tool, which has grinding wheels and buffing pads.  Its sufficient for the "little" bit of occasional buffing and grinding I need to do.  

I use a handheld Dremel for edge burnishing small items - so just need to look for a buffer wheel. it probably has one - lots of attachments I have not looked at.

Thank you @Wepster and @Littlef. I might actually have most things I need at home. Now to get to work.

 

 

Thank you everyone here who has given me so much of information and guidance.:You_Rock_Emoticon:

Now I get to work!

Edited by SUP

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A Dremel-type tool, yeah, I forgot about that, great for small items and the buffing wheels are pretty cheap on ebay.

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Could be wrong but I think you may be talking about old japanning? A form of baked enamel made from asphaltum that’s there’s no “true” historically accurate product on the market to use . There are old recipes to  make it but I found the  old recipes are toxic and difficult to make and work with and more trouble than it’s worth. Dupli-Color DE 1635 is a cheap automotive spray paint that 100% looks exactly the same. It’s very durable not as durable as the real stuff, but tough. You can bake it on to increase durability but not necessary.

 

 

as for rust old paint removal look up “electrolysis rust removal” i’ve done countless antique tools with this method, and it not only removes the rust if I understand it correctly, it reverses it and turning  it into black oxide, so your not eating away the old metal and it gives things a wonderful dark” old look” with pretty much no elbow grease

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@Chef niloc, yes electrolysis really cleans rust. I used it for old iron pots and pans a few years ago. i planned to set it up again but don't feel like it for a few tools.

So I used lime juice and Evaporust instead. That got the tools clean of rust. Not shining though but I can live with that. Lastly,  I used blade wax on them. 

They are now clean and not getting rusted again.

Edited by SUP

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In the end it sounds like it was a pretty easy and simple process (after all the talk about buffing and electrolysis :lol:).

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@dikman Yes i was! :) but I learnt a lot about what I want to do, and more important, what I am not ready for, at this point. Tomorrow... who knows? :P

Sometimes, my enthusiasm and eagerness to learn runs away from me!

Thank you, all of you , who went out of your way to teach me so much and especially to warn me of the dangers. :You_Rock_Emoticon:

Edited by SUP

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