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Posted

Good question. I think it depends on how soft the material is.

I have sewn some leather handles with linen thread a while ago. This is how it looks. Thread size unknown (old wooden spool) but I used a 280 / 28 needle. The holes are pretty well filled with the thread. Material is 10-11mm thick.

IMG_9746.JPG

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

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Posted (edited)

sorry - it was a 250 / 27 needle I just checked.

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
  On 10/21/2024 at 7:34 AM, Constabulary said:

Good question. I think it depends on how soft the material is.

I have sewn some leather handles with linen thread a while ago. This is how it looks. Thread size unknown (old wooden spool) but I used a 280 / 28 needle. The holes are pretty well filled with the thread. Material is 10-11mm thick.

IMG_9746.JPG

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Ok. Thanks for sharing that. The other thing I was wondering if maybe my stitch length is too close together & it is stretching the leather between the stitch holes.

I will play around some more. Lmao I bought 2 full sides of leather just to make 2 rear flank billets, soo I got some practice leather. 

Just hate that it's Hermann Oak sides I'm practicing on. 

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Posted

buy some leather scraps for testing. I never bought a hide. I just buy scraps. Often good enough for what I do.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted

Quite a few changes I would think are needed. First when you do thicker thread it often needs the bobbin backed to be looser. Try at least a 1/4 anticlockwise turn.(remember the lock screw needs to be loosened first) The needle should be size 26 for that thread and the s point or LR should look better than the d or tri points. If the needle is too small for the thread you will be getting flagging a lot more because the knot is having a hard time getting up in too small a hole. Lubricating the thread with some machine oil running through some foam can help as it transfers to the needle and makes it slip through better which includes making it easier to pull the knot up. The foot pressure marks would be better if the back foot were the double one that goes on both sides but the narrow set may not be the best in this application anyway. One tip I will offer is get a sample piece ready of the thickness you are wanting to stitch and keep backing of the foot pressure until the job starts to lift then take it down 2 or 3 turns. If You need to run the left foot only then you could do as I have done and tig weld a wider base to it as shown in the pictures.The wider base reduces marks by a lot.DSC06151_resize.JPGDSC06153_resize.JPG

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Posted
  On 10/21/2024 at 3:36 AM, DieselTech said:

Ok. So here we go: I swapped the thread over to lubricated 346 bonded polyester thread, both on top & in the bobbin. #25 Schmetz D point needle.

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A #25 needle is good for V277 but for V346 a #26 would be the choice ( Needle / Thread Chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html  )

  On 10/21/2024 at 3:36 AM, DieselTech said:

So when I 1st started sewing, it kept picking up the leather when the needle was coming up. So I increased the presser foot tension, by 20 turns in. 

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Probably to small a hole created by needle for V346 polyester.

  On 10/21/2024 at 3:36 AM, DieselTech said:

Why did it keep snapping my top thread at the beginning of sewing? Was it because my thread is 8-10years old? (Thread was in zip lock bags stored in the dark) if that matters on its age?

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I would first change to a #26 needle like @RockyAussie suggested, readjust the presser foot tension and give it a try. Also check and see if there are any burrs in the top thread path like a guide, the eye of the needle, presser foot, feed dog etc. If it works great if not then change to a new spool of thread.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

Did you ever lubricate the presser foot bar inside the cover since you purchased the machine? It will stick or not move as freely giving a false pressure adjustment so you end up over compensating the pressure. The presser foot you are using spreads the pressure lengthwise vs widthwise as in @RockyAussiewelded foot.

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Posted (edited)
  On 10/21/2024 at 9:55 AM, RockyAussie said:

Quite a few changes I would think are needed. First when you do thicker thread it often needs the bobbin backed to be looser. Try at least a 1/4 anticlockwise turn.(remember the lock screw needs to be loosened first) The needle should be size 26 for that thread and the s point or LR should look better than the d or tri points. If the needle is too small for the thread you will be getting flagging a lot more because the knot is having a hard time getting up in too small a hole. Lubricating the thread with some machine oil running through some foam can help as it transfers to the needle and makes it slip through better which includes making it easier to pull the knot up. The foot pressure marks would be better if the back foot were the double one that goes on both sides but the narrow set may not be the best in this application anyway. One tip I will offer is get a sample piece ready of the thickness you are wanting to stitch and keep backing of the foot pressure until the job starts to lift then take it down 2 or 3 turns. If You need to run the left foot only then you could do as I have done and tig weld a wider base to it as shown in the pictures.The wider base reduces marks by a lot.DSC06151_resize.JPGDSC06153_resize.JPG

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  On 10/21/2024 at 10:52 AM, kgg said:

A #25 needle is good for V277 but for V346 a #26 would be the choice ( Needle / Thread Chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html  )

Probably to small a hole created by needle for V346 polyester.

I would first change to a #26 needle like @RockyAussie suggested, readjust the presser foot tension and give it a try. Also check and see if there are any burrs in the top thread path like a guide, the eye of the needle, presser foot, feed dog etc. If it works great if not then change to a new spool of thread.

kgg

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  On 10/21/2024 at 11:34 AM, Patrick1 said:

Did you ever lubricate the presser foot bar inside the cover since you purchased the machine? It will stick or not move as freely giving a false pressure adjustment so you end up over compensating the pressure. The presser foot you are using spreads the pressure lengthwise vs widthwise as in @RockyAussiewelded foot.

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Thanks everybody. You all gave me a lot of things to try & play around with today. 

I would think the #25 needle I was using is big enough. That 346 lubricated poly thread falls thru the needle eye like throwing a hot dog down a hallway. 

Ok I'll try adjusting presser foot pressure & changing my presser feet out. Also I will order some #26 needles. 

Also if I go to a # 26 needle can I still use @Patrick1 #25 throat plate & #25 feed dog? Or does that need changed out as well?

Thanks.

Edited by DieselTech
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Posted
  On 10/21/2024 at 1:05 PM, DieselTech said:

 

 

Thanks everybody. You all gave me a lot of things to try & play around with today. 

I would think the #25 needle I was using is big enough. That 346 lubricated poly thread falls thru the needle eye like throwing a hot dog down a hallway. 

Ok I'll try adjusting presser foot pressure & changing my presser feet out. Also I will order some #26 needles. 

Also if I go to a # 26 needle can I still use @Patrick1 #25 throat plate & #25 feed dog? Or does that need changed out as well?

Thanks.

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Should work but not guaranteeing it. The feed dog slot is .106 and shorter than the stock dog so not sure how a thicker thread will sew. 

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Posted
  On 10/21/2024 at 7:55 AM, DieselTech said:

The other thing I was wondering if maybe my stitch length is too close together & it is stretching the leather between the stitch holes.

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You do have to be careful to not sew too short stitches when using an S point needle. It slices inline and can weaken the stitch line if the holes are too close. OTOH, diamond/tri points punch a shorter hole and the thread stays on top of the leather, as opposed to being almost buried by the S points. So, I try to stay above 7 to the inch with S points.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

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