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AlamoJoe2002

Thanksgiving Recovery, Black Dye Rubbing Off Belt

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I made a belt from Wicket & Craig chestnut veg-tan 12 ounce hide. After the neatsfoot oil (NFO) coating dried a few weeks I applied black dye. I used “Feibings Black Leather Dye.” The dye bottle doesn’t specify water or alcohol based product. It is not legal for sale in California. I finished the edges and applied a homemade sealer of NFO, bees and carnauba wax.The stuff is stiff as a wax candle poured from a teflon mold the size of an 8 ounce butter stick. I continue to use a t-shirt to remove trace of black dye rubbing off the belt. 

I read a few forum posts about this problem. I have a few choices…keep rubbing for the next century, seal it up with a 50/50 rosolene  product…or murder it with a rag and steel wool full of xylene or toluene to remove anything black.

I need a reasonable solution because the dye mixed with the homemade wax sealer and contaminated everything. Do I remove the wax sealer or seal it up?

Happy Thanksgiving to Everyone Around the World,

Joe

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I am wondering if you possibly got too much neats foot oil in the belt. Usually 24-48 hours is sufficient for the neatsfoot oil to distribute thru the belt. 

I would wipe it down with a rag & acetone & then let it dry completely. Then check it for dye rub off. 

Others may have a better solution. 

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I never add more than a perfunctory coat of NFO . . . hair sde only . . . just enough to make it look wet as you put it on.  The leather should be VERY close to it's original color within 12 to 16 hours . . . or you put too much on.

Never mix anything other than some alcohol or Feibings reducer with the dye . . .  and mix it 50/50 for best results.

Wax will not seal the dye pigments . . . something like Resolene is necessary . . . even if you rub it till the cows come home . . . perspiration will leach out the pigment from the leather.

Might try Diesel's idea . . . personally I've never ran into such a problem

May God bless,

Dwight

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14 minutes ago, Dwight said:

I never add more than a perfunctory coat of NFO . . . hair sde only . . . just enough to make it look wet as you put it on.  The leather should be VERY close to it's original color within 12 to 16 hours . . . or you put too much on.

Never mix anything other than some alcohol or Feibings reducer with the dye . . .  and mix it 50/50 for best results.

Wax will not seal the dye pigments . . . something like Resolene is necessary . . . even if you rub it till the cows come home . . . perspiration will leach out the pigment from the leather.

Might try Diesel's idea . . . personally I've never ran into such a problem

May God bless,

Dwight

Do you think it is something about the black dye with rub off?

It seems like it is a re-occurring question asked on here & it always seems to be black.

Or do you think it is more to do with how it was applied? 

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8 hours ago, AlamoJoe2002 said:

I applied black dye. I used “Feibings Black Leather Dye.

If it was USMC black, it takes a lot of buffing to get rid of the 'loose' pigment on the surface. 

Needs to be sealed with a good quality water based or lacquer.  Anything else doesn't provide a real seal.  Oil and wax change consistency with temperature and rub off.

 

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