AlamoJoe2002 Report post Posted Friday at 05:17 PM I made a belt from Wicket & Craig chestnut veg-tan 12 ounce hide. After the neatsfoot oil (NFO) coating dried a few weeks I applied black dye. I used “Feibings Black Leather Dye.” The dye bottle doesn’t specify water or alcohol based product. It is not legal for sale in California. I finished the edges and applied a homemade sealer of NFO, bees and carnauba wax.The stuff is stiff as a wax candle poured from a teflon mold the size of an 8 ounce butter stick. I continue to use a t-shirt to remove trace of black dye rubbing off the belt. I read a few forum posts about this problem. I have a few choices…keep rubbing for the next century, seal it up with a 50/50 rosolene product…or murder it with a rag and steel wool full of xylene or toluene to remove anything black. I need a reasonable solution because the dye mixed with the homemade wax sealer and contaminated everything. Do I remove the wax sealer or seal it up? Happy Thanksgiving to Everyone Around the World, Joe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DieselTech Report post Posted Friday at 07:31 PM I am wondering if you possibly got too much neats foot oil in the belt. Usually 24-48 hours is sufficient for the neatsfoot oil to distribute thru the belt. I would wipe it down with a rag & acetone & then let it dry completely. Then check it for dye rub off. Others may have a better solution. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted Saturday at 12:23 AM I never add more than a perfunctory coat of NFO . . . hair sde only . . . just enough to make it look wet as you put it on. The leather should be VERY close to it's original color within 12 to 16 hours . . . or you put too much on. Never mix anything other than some alcohol or Feibings reducer with the dye . . . and mix it 50/50 for best results. Wax will not seal the dye pigments . . . something like Resolene is necessary . . . even if you rub it till the cows come home . . . perspiration will leach out the pigment from the leather. Might try Diesel's idea . . . personally I've never ran into such a problem May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DieselTech Report post Posted Saturday at 12:41 AM 14 minutes ago, Dwight said: I never add more than a perfunctory coat of NFO . . . hair sde only . . . just enough to make it look wet as you put it on. The leather should be VERY close to it's original color within 12 to 16 hours . . . or you put too much on. Never mix anything other than some alcohol or Feibings reducer with the dye . . . and mix it 50/50 for best results. Wax will not seal the dye pigments . . . something like Resolene is necessary . . . even if you rub it till the cows come home . . . perspiration will leach out the pigment from the leather. Might try Diesel's idea . . . personally I've never ran into such a problem May God bless, Dwight Do you think it is something about the black dye with rub off? It seems like it is a re-occurring question asked on here & it always seems to be black. Or do you think it is more to do with how it was applied? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted Saturday at 01:23 AM 8 hours ago, AlamoJoe2002 said: I applied black dye. I used “Feibings Black Leather Dye. If it was USMC black, it takes a lot of buffing to get rid of the 'loose' pigment on the surface. Needs to be sealed with a good quality water based or lacquer. Anything else doesn't provide a real seal. Oil and wax change consistency with temperature and rub off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted Sunday at 11:51 AM On 11/29/2024 at 7:41 PM, DieselTech said: Do you think it is something about the black dye with rub off? It seems like it is a re-occurring question asked on here & it always seems to be black. Or do you think it is more to do with how it was applied? Actually all of the Feibing dyes have a bit of rub off. Diluting it 50/50 with reducer will give a smoother color in the finished product . . . AND . . . cut the rub off by maybe 75% I do a dip dye on all my products . . . it is totally immersed at some point in the dye. Probably get less rub off if done with sheep wool pieces . . . but I just never could get the smooth color that way that I like. And Northmount is fully correct about USMC black dye . . . more loose pigment there than you can hardly ever rub off. Black dye gets the attention because it is too easily detected . . . but the browns do the same . . . that's the reason I like resolene so well. Seals it up . . . permanently. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuck123wapati Report post Posted Sunday at 04:16 PM NFo isn't a coating it is an oil, it is used to add some oil back into the leather as a Liquor or conditioner. Depending on the amount you use you can make your leather products vary in stiffness or flexability. I use very little on holsters for example but use more on leashes and straps so they become softer and more supple. here is a link to the instructions on the application of the dye. hope this helps. https://fiebing.com/ufaqs/how-do-i-dye-leather/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
