Stitching Question

[Gridix]

Beehive,

 

Yes I am realizing all the things you just mentioned, but it doesn't discourage me at all! I have always loved the process of creating. My main hobby has always been cooking and I love putting in the extra effort of making everything from scratch and enjoying the process. It is simply that I have not had much experience with leather yet to fully appreciate the labor involved. As I watch videos online to see how things are made and to learn proper techniques, I do realize that they are not showing the entire process and they are making it seem "perfect" and easy. What they don't show are the things I am asking about and how to overcome them. So I am so glad that this forum exists for me to have a platform to soak in the knownledge from others who have already gone through some of these learning hurdles. 

As far as the tools, I just wanted to make sure I was not shooting myself in the foot so to speak by buying the cheapest tools to try out leatherworking. So many times in other projects when I would try cheaper tools it would make the job miserable.

 

Thank you so much for the great information and tips.

 

[fredk]

2 hours ago, SUP said:

I often punch my stitching holes on a slab of old wax. I just melt candles, odorless ones, in an old pan and and let it cool. This makes a good base and the chisel ends go into the wax and slip out smoothly. Whenever the wax gets too rough on the surface, just melt and cool again. This is usually on thicker leathers or multi layered ones.

Moi aussi

I recently made me a bigger and deeper slab

[Beehive]

17 minutes ago, Gridix said:

Beehive,

 

Yes I am realizing all the things you just mentioned, but it doesn't discourage me at all! I have always loved the process of creating. My main hobby has always been cooking and I love putting in the extra effort of making everything from scratch and enjoying the process. It is simply that I have not had much experience with leather yet to fully appreciate the labor involved. As I watch videos online to see how things are made and to learn proper techniques, I do realize that they are not showing the entire process and they are making it seem "perfect" and easy. What they don't show are the things I am asking about and how to overcome them. So I am so glad that this forum exists for me to have a platform to soak in the knownledge from others who have already gone through some of these learning hurdles. 

As far as the tools, I just wanted to make sure I was not shooting myself in the foot so to speak by buying the cheapest tools to try out leatherworking. So many times in other projects when I would try cheaper tools it would make the job miserable.

 

Thank you so much for the great information and tips.

 

 

Not too many people can say they're wearing their accomplishment. There's no better feeling after you're done. Belts and bags are on top of the pyramid. Saddle on the tippy top. But once you're done with the marathon stuff. Stitching holsters, wallets, and book covers seem a breeze. 

Never give up. Work through it. Move forward. Even if takes you months doing a few inches of stitching a day. 

You're in a club where nobody is wearing Chinese leather off of Amazon. None of that $65 for a mass produced belt nonsense. Your days are now going to be full of quality. Real deal, handmade quality. 

[Northmount]

Moved to sewing leather. 

If you haven't checked out this thread, take a look at it.

 

[DJole]

On 1/27/2025 at 6:05 AM, Gridix said:

Whenever I stitch, my needle gets stuck when it gets to the thread. Is this due to the chisels im using or could it be due to the size of the needle thread?
It seems when I watch others sew on youtube that their needle/thread goes right through no problem.

It really makes a difference to match the thread and needle and hole size. 
I found this diagram somewhere, copied it down, and let me put it here, too

John James Needle
size		Length	Outside diameter	Ritza “Tiger” thread	LIN Cable
4	004	48 mm	.9mm	0.6	532/632/832
2	002	54	1	0.8	432/332
0	1/0	57	1.1	1
00	2/0	57	1.3	1.2
000	3/0	62	1.6

What is the table telling me?

If I am using 3mm stitching irons on my thinner leather project, the best results are using a 004 needle, with the corresponding thread. 
If I am using a thicker thread (like those Maine threads), then try a 1/0 or 2/0 needle, with a larger stitching iron (5mm works well, 4 maybe)

I used to have that similar problem until I figured it out. 
So you should get a few packages of needles (they're not expensive, after all) to match your thread sizes, and using a stitching iron to match. 
I have a set of 3mm and 5 mm diamond (Japanese style) stitching chisels, which are my go-to sizes. 
I have a set of 4mm stitching irons (French or slit style), too. 
I have a few remaining Tandy "Big Eye" needles, which I keep around for nostalgia. ;-)

[Beehive]

Using the French style irons. You can adjust the size of the hole. Depending on leather thickness. Hammering it through 5-6mm thickness. Leather weight that requires a bigger diameter thread. It'll do it. 

Thinner weight like 4-5oz. The wedge shape does the same. It'll make the correct sized hole. 

As for needle size. The maker can recommend anything they want. Their job is to sell you needles. Giving a general guild line.

But since this is all custom. If I use a 004 needle with any thread that fit through the eye. Even though it'll make the stitch line look like a one hour craft class. I promise, nobody is going to show up at your door to slap your hand. 

Consider the John James range. Both a 002 needle and a 1/0 needle can be used with 1mm thread. By their own words. I take that as a guild line. Whatever works for You. Whatever will get the job done. Whatever will lay the best looking stitch. 

[Gridix]

On 1/28/2025 at 9:08 AM, SUP said:

I often punch my stitching holes on a slab of old wax. I just melt candles, odorless ones, in an old pan and and let it cool. This makes a good base and the chisel ends go into the wax and slip out smoothly. Whenever the wax gets too rough on the surface, just melt and cool again. This is usually on thicker leathers or multi layered ones.

So you are saying that you literally lay your item on the wax and punch right into the way like a rubber punch pad or something like that ?

[fredk]

yes, exactly that

here's a boring photo of my wax block

A 150mm/6 inch ruler laid on it

Edited 23 hours ago by fredk

[SUP]

I do exactly that. I got the idea from @fredk and I think @Sheilajeanne said she used the same too.

Sometimes, I put a sheet of paper in between the wax and the leather to prevent sundry wax particles from sticking onto the flesh side of the leather.