Members yober Posted February 24 Members Report Posted February 24 I’ve come across a couple examples of this technique, and I’m trying to get my mind around what exactly the order of operations was. Usually the loop is sewn first and then the edge containing the welt is sewn afterwards on a standard juki-type stitcher. However, in the included pictures it seems that the highlighted stitch line is soon before the loop is stitched in. How is this possible — handstitching? There’s obviously no room to get that stitch tucked underneath the overhanging loop. Apparently somebody has this licked. Something I missed? Would love to know the answer to this. Thanks. Quote
Members Cumberland Highpower Posted February 24 Members Report Posted February 24 (edited) 18 minutes ago, yober said: I’ve come across a couple examples of this technique, and I’m trying to get my mind around what exactly the order of operations was. Usually the loop is sewn first and then the edge containing the welt is sewn afterwards on a standard juki-type stitcher. However, in the included pictures it seems that the highlighted stitch line is soon before the loop is stitched in. How is this possible — handstitching? There’s obviously no room to get that stitch tucked underneath the overhanging loop. Apparently somebody has this licked. Something I missed? Would love to know the answer to this. Thanks. Well, I can't tell you from looking at the photo how it's assembled all the way, I can tell you it was Stitched on a Randall with a slim and narrow presser foot.. (Hook and awl machine). No Juki can make such fine work. Milt Sparks uses Randalls. Edited February 24 by Cumberland Highpower Quote
Members yober Posted February 24 Author Members Report Posted February 24 (edited) Thanks. Yeah, that is some nice stitch work, but the awl coming from the top on a Randall still can’t clear the foldover and go underneath it. Unless somehow the welted edge is sewn first and then somehow the loop is folded over and sewn from inside the holster. Edited February 24 by yober Quote
Members Cumberland Highpower Posted February 24 Members Report Posted February 24 (edited) There's a trick to it to be sure, but if they can do it so can you. Pull up on the bottom of the loop a little. My guess is they ran stitching from about the trigger area up the flap and around part way. Then folded over the loop and stitched it to the back. I cant' tell if the X came first or the stitch band around it. Pull it up a bit and see. Looks like the X came after judging from the way the thread is cut. They just then folded the holster from the look of it and closed it up. Looks like in a 2nd set of stitching (I can see a stop and start on the backside of the closing stitch. Might give them the chance to flip it over and finish stitching from the front? I'd guess they just thumbed the loop back real hard and ran a narrow foot past it at that point. I think I can see some wrinkles from the flex still present? At the same time I think the stitch length in that tight spot varies allot, it may be a short stretch of hand stitching, an inch or 2?. It could also just be the sign of a serious fight trying to wrestle the holster around/past the presser foot? I can't see those guys doing any hand work though. Anway my best guess from the 2 photos. It's just a guess. I've stitched allot of holsters over the past 25 years.... You should take a flat shoe knife and cut the entire thing apart. You'll get a good look at the stitching that way. Edited February 24 by Cumberland Highpower Quote
Members yober Posted February 24 Author Members Report Posted February 24 These pics happen to be from online sources; some of the “ears” on versions I’ve held in person are much wider than this, so I don’t think they get pulled back. One doesn’t take apart their $400+ milt sparks holster. :-) The different stitching is because on the upper portion of the edge is a full welt, whereas there’s a movable welt in the lower half so the stitching really only goes through the front (and back on the back half), leaving the movable portion of the welt to move in and out to adjust tension. The only solution I can think of is handstitching. I’m willing to be educated though.…. 8^) Quote
Members Dwight Posted February 24 Members Report Posted February 24 I'd like to see the full pictures of the holster . . . not sure of all I'm seeing with the chopped up pieces. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members yober Posted February 24 Author Members Report Posted February 24 2 hours ago, Dwight said: I'd like to see the full pictures of the holster . . . not sure of all I'm seeing with the chopped up pieces. May God bless, Dwight Quote
Members Cumberland Highpower Posted February 24 Members Report Posted February 24 7 hours ago, yober said: One doesn’t take apart their $400+ milt sparks holster. :-) Why not? You can always put it back together. I'd consider $400 a reasonable tuition if you want to learn to make these types of holsters. I've probably got 2 bushels of parts from holsters I've cut apart/deconstructed over the years! LOL Quote
Members badhatter1005 Posted February 24 Members Report Posted February 24 It looks like someone punched holes with a precision chisel set the holes with an awl and then saddle stitched that particular portion by hand. I know a lot of pro shops do that however I'm by no means an expert. Quote
Members Double Daddy Posted February 24 Members Report Posted February 24 (edited) 14 hours ago, Cumberland Highpower said: Well, I can't tell you from looking at the photo how it's assembled all the way, I can tell you it was Stitched on a Randall with a slim and narrow presser foot.. (Hook and awl machine). No Juki can make such fine work. Milt Sparks uses Randalls. The Union Lockstitch machine is also a needle-awl machine...been trying to get my hands on one of those in my locale for a while. No crazy big hurry...but...they sure lay a purdy stitch line. In the meantime, I'll chug along just fine with my CB3200... Same goes for whatever old model Landis machine Sam Andrews uses for his fine leather products...check out his excellent instructional videos on YouTube. I believe he even found one of those antiques to keep around for backup purposes. Edited February 24 by Double Daddy Quote Have a great day! Chris
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