Help! Screw Up!!!!

[ZARDOZ the GREAT]

How-DEEEE-AMIT!!!

 

So I was doing several things at once, packing, working on several holsters, a flintlock...  over several days.

I wound up sewing these two holsters up and applying some neatsfoot oil, then some Aussie conditioner... then I noticed that I never sewed the belt strap/loop!!! It's only glued on.

The holsters are glued at the edges with SLC Ever-Tack. This is water soluble glue, so not a big problem.

 

However, I am concerned that, once I cut them open and then go to re-stitch them, it will be a big problem aligning the holes again for the stitching. The leather piece with the spots that goes between each side of the holsters makes it more complicated to align.

Considering using rivets to secure the belt/loop/strap. I think I can do this by using a narrow strip of steel on the inside as a surface to hammer on them/ I could also use Chicago Screws.

Figure I'd have to glue a piece of pig skin over these on the inside to protect the pistols.

 

Any ideas?

Is it better to just cut them open and restitch afterwards? I am leaning towards that as I write this, but figure someone here with far more experience may have a more educated and effective suggestion.

 

Just thought that when gluing them back together to prepare for stitching, I can run a bunch of needles through the holes, to make sure they align.

 

Thanks.

 

 

Edited Saturday at 09:31 PM by ZARDOZ the GREAT

[Hardrada]

I'm thinking that if you cut them open you can line up the holes again using the pricking iron you used to make them.

You'd probably get glue on the iron but if it's water-based adhesive maybe it'll be easier to clean.

[fredk]

That last line of your is the key; I use mapping pins into small cork block to align sewing holes or you can use these; 

[dikman]

If you don't open them up to stitch on the loops then in the future every time you look at them you'll wish you had done it properly. You could use pins, needles, small brads or those thingy's fred showed - I bought some of those a while ago just in case I need them - to line up the holes. A lot of extra work but at least you'll know you did it the right way.

I made a couple of western holsters based on Steve McQueen's from The Magnificent Seven, the end of the loop was attached using Chicago screws with the fixed part trapped between the two layers making up the holsters. Over time a slight bump developed on the inside of the holsters where the screws are and is a potential wear spot. I don't think I'll use this method again.

Edited Saturday at 11:06 PM by dikman

[Littlef]

The alignment pins that Fred posted work great.  Another option would be to use a bunch of saddle stitch needles.  I do that when I’m sewing a thick welt.  I align holes with a couple needles.  Then use a little bar clamp to keep it closed tight… add a couple more needles in like every other… or every third hole with a few little bar clamps spaced ever so often.  Then I remove them as I saddle stitch down the welt.  

[ZARDOZ the GREAT]

Great advice and information!!!
Thank you all!

Cutting them open and using pins to align the holes it shall be!

Thank you!

 

[Dwight]

I've made that mistake . . . I take a deep breath . . . get out the razor knife . . . cut the stitches . . . pull out the thread pieces . . . 

Sew the belt piece . . . go get a coffee . . . and double check to see that I sewed it.

I don't use that greasy kid stuff glue . . . I use Weldwood contact cement . . .

Start at the toe end . . . stick a needle in that end hole . . . down into a piece of rigid foam . . . come up about 10 holes . . . stick another needle . . . and squeeze that piece between the needles together . . . move up 10 more . . . squeeze together . . . and so forth.

Take it to the same sewing machine I did it with the first time . . . stick that needle down in the first hole . . . and VERY CAREFULLY sew it back together again.

So far it has worked every time.

May God bless,

Dwight

[ZARDOZ the GREAT]

1 hour ago, Dwight said:

I've made that mistake . . . I take a deep breath . . . get out the razor knife . . . cut the stitches . . . pull out the thread pieces . . . 

Sew the belt piece . . . go get a coffee . . . and double check to see that I sewed it.

I don't use that greasy kid stuff glue . . . I use Weldwood contact cement . . .

Start at the toe end . . . stick a needle in that end hole . . . down into a piece of rigid foam . . . come up about 10 holes . . . stick another needle . . . and squeeze that piece between the needles together . . . move up 10 more . . . squeeze together . . . and so forth.

Take it to the same sewing machine I did it with the first time . . . stick that needle down in the first hole . . . and VERY CAREFULLY sew it back together again.

So far it has worked every time.

May God bless,

Dwight

Yeah. I'm gonna give it a day or two. Just too frustrating to correct right now.

 

I have Weldwood and have also used Barge. Both good. Just working in my living room right now and stench is a bit much.

I sewed them by hand.

Thanks.

Edited 22 hours ago by ZARDOZ the GREAT

[ZARDOZ the GREAT]

Another thing I can do is only split them open enough to access the stitching of the belt loops. Once done, I can then start sewing again and, as I get close to the old stitch, finish removing those and continue.

[GatoGordo]

Years ago I did something similar. My solution was to cut two needles short so they would fit in the small space available and then to manipulate them with needle nose pliers that could reach into the space.

[Hardrada]

Not sure it's the best method, but it's what I've been thinking about throughout the day since it's quite likely I also have to undo stitches on a project of mine:

 

[dikman]

Gato, I had the same idea but given the amount of stitching on the loops I reckon it would be better to just open them up (probably less frustrating in the long run).

[TomE]

Sewing with a jerk needle is an option if you have limited access to the back side.  Just need to feel the tip of the needle (inserted from the front) and loop the thread over the hook of the needle then pull back.  This creates a lockstitch similar to a sewing machine. I've used this to repair boots.  The jerk needle is used like a speedy stitcher, but it is a simple/traditional tool without a bobbin.  I use a sewing awl to make the holes and the jerk needle to make the stitches.  Can buy an American straight needle (#5 or #6) at the site below and chuck it in a pegging awl haft.  Lots of YouTube videos on using a speedy stitcher/jerk needle.

https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/machine-needles/

https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/awl-hafts/

 

Edited 13 hours ago by TomE