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Hand-cast solid Brass Buckles from a small foundry


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Posted

Hi everyone,

I’m new here and just getting started with a small project I’ve been working on for some time: hand-cast solid brass buckles and hardware. I run a small foundry and workshop near Nairobi, Kenya, where I make each buckle in small batches using traditional sand casting.

Right now I’m at the stage of introducing these pieces and learning what makers actually look for in their hardware. Strength and authenticity are my focus, but I’d love to hear what you value most — sizing, finish, style, or price point.

Here’s a look at what I’ve made so far:
https://origibelts.com/collections/wholesale

Any thoughts or feedback would be really appreciated as I start this journey. Thanks for letting me be part of the community.

Sincerely,
John G.
Origibelts – Nairobi, Kenya

buckle.png

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Hi John G
Welcome to the forum.

To me the most important points are:

Strength/solidity
Size
Design/style

Finish to me is part of the style, and I normally prefer just a regular brass finish like the one in your picture, alternatively it could be silver coloured, but I prefer no "bling" on my buckles.

Price is not especially important since I don't make 1000 belts, and compared to the time invested in making a nice belt, the price for a buckle is only of secondary importance. But I guess that if you run a regular production of belts, it is of more importance.

I like the small "dip" where the prong of the buckle nests. That is a nice touch in my opinion.

Depending on what type of product I am making, I use either "normal buckles" like the one in your picture, or "roller buckles" or "center bar buckles"
For belts I prefer sizes 1.25" and 1.5" (30mm and 38-40mm).

Brgds 
Jonas

Edited by Northmount
fixed typos
  • Members
Posted

Looks nice! But here is your weak link!

buckle.png.0ab3501e12ab76b21268cf226c19b058.png

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Posted

I'm curious why that is the weak link? What am I missing? It doesn't look any different to me than other buckles I have.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted

@Mulesaw
 

Hi Jonas,

Thanks so much for the thoughtful feedback — that’s exactly the kind of perspective I was hoping to hear.

I’m glad you noticed the little “dip” for the prong; that was something I experimented with to make the buckle both more solid and a bit easier to use. I’ll definitely take your points on board: strength and solidity first, then style and sizing in the 1.25" and 1.5" range. Roller and center bar buckles are already on my sketch pad, so it’s encouraging to hear those are useful for your work as well.

And I hear you on finish — a straightforward brass look is also my preference, no plating or “bling.” It keeps the buckle honest, and it develops a patina that works well with leather over time.

Really appreciate you taking the time to share your view. It helps me make sure what I produce is actually useful to makers like you.

Best,
John

  • Members
Posted

@DieselTech
 

Hi DieselTech,

Thanks for pointing that out. The prong and the joint where it nests in the frame is definitely the area I’ve focused most on reinforcing during casting and finishing. I’ve been testing different thicknesses and alloys to make sure that part stands up to stress, since I know that’s where buckles usually fail.

 

Best,
John

  • Members
Posted

@dikman
 

Hi Dikman,

Good question — you’re not missing anything obvious. The prong/tongue area where it pivots is what tends to give out first on a lot of buckles. That’s what DieselTech was flagging. I’ve been beefing up that joint in my castings so it holds up better under stress.

Best,
John

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Posted

Just a curious question . . .  if someone was to send you a "pattern" . . .  made of plastic . . .  cut out on a computer based machine . . .  of an exact personal buckle . . .  would you be up to making that buckle?

I'm thinking of the American Western buckle type . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

  • Members
Posted

@Dwight

Hi Dwight,

Yes sir, I could definitely work from a pattern like that. If you sent me a plastic cutout of the buckle you had in mind, I could use it to build the mold and cast it in brass.

Western-style buckles are a bit bigger and often carry more detail, but that’s all part of the fun. I’d just want to know how heavy-duty you’d like it, and whether you prefer a polished finish or to let the brass age naturally.

Sending over a physical template should be simple — a flat plastic piece in a padded envelope can usually be mailed to Kenya for around $20 or so. Once I see the pattern or a picture of the buckle you have in mind, I’ll be able to give you a clear idea of cost and the best way to approach it. If you’d prefer to share details more directly, feel free to message me here or reach me through my site at origibelts.com

Thanks for the idea — projects like this are what keep the foundry interesting.

May God bless,


John G.
Origibelts – near Nairobi, Kenya

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