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  • Contributing Member
Posted
9 hours ago, kgg said:

I use good fashion contact cement. I don't think the brand name really matters much. What I have found that bests works for me and gives me the best holding is to apply one coat on the flesh (fuzzy) side of the pieces, let dry then add a second coat until dry (about 10 -15 minutes), mate the two pieces, use a roller to evenly press the pieces together, clamp or weight down the pieces and let sit for 12-24 hours.

My theory is the first coat of contact cement sinks into the fibres and binds them together. The second coat holds both surfaces permanently together. I have found sometimes with only one coat of contact cement the two pieces can be pulled apart. 

kgg

I do that as well, but one thing I do differently is that I keep two jars of contact cement, one of which is slightly thinner than the other. The thinner is for the first coat. I also work in  a good tooth on the leather. The first coat must be dry; then apply the second coat. then I press and hammer together. The only contact cement I use is Bardge cement and thinner. I have never had a separation. Bardge contact is as strong as it gets.

  • Members
Posted (edited)

I've been using a heat gun to "activate" contact cement - just a brief warming of the glued pieces before assembly.  Bonds well with less cement so I have fewer problems with the glue interfering with burnishing edges.  For some shaped pieces I case the leather lightly and shape the leather before applying the glue, and the heat gun treatment results in a better bond when the leather is damp.  I'm using Barge cement but will probably switch to Weldwood in the future.

 

Edited by TomE
  • Members
Posted

OK?

So are you guys popping the lid on wildwood glue each time you use it or are you transferring the glue to a different container and using a different type of applicator?  I've been using barge quart cans with the applicator and a pair of channel lock pliers to get it open every time I need it. Is their a different more convenient method?

  • Contributing Member
Posted

I replace the lid after I finish gluing an item. I also tap the lid around the edges with a mallet.

Used to do a lot of plastic laminate work. Bought the contact cement in five gallon buckets.

Also: I used latex contact cement on laminate, only use solvent based on leather.

  • CFM
Posted

yea, i have a smaller glass weldwood bottle with a brush that I transfer to. You can also replenish the acetone as needed if it starts drying up. i usually put a bit in the can after opening it or transferring.

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

  • Members
Posted

I refill a Barge quart can from a gallon can, adding Barge thinner as needed.  Made a funnel from a 16 oz plastic bottle.

What is everyone's favorite glue pot? 

  • Contributing Member
Posted

I use a contact adhesive all the time

For small areas or seams I use a tube glue called UHU. For larger areas I use a brand none of youse would have heard of. I work straight from the 1 litre tin. Sometimes I pour in a wee bit of Evostick adhesive cleaner which acts as a thinner too and it stops the glue going 'off'

I rarely wait for the glue to go tacky. One generous coat of glue on one of the item parts then I stick the items together and clamp up. After a couple of hours I remove the clamps and tap down with a small rubber-head mallet

Never had a problem doing it this way and 99.9999% of the time I get a good glue bond

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • Members
Posted

I suspect most (if not all) solvent contact cements are pretty much the same formulation. I have started adding a bit of Xylene to mine occasionally if it starts thickening in the can, seems to work ok. I'm currently using Sika brand but I have a can of Selley's for when that runs out. I was going to pour it into a smaller container but haven't bothered, instead I glued one of those cheap "acid brushes" into the lid to use as an applicator, it's working ok so far. The down side to the Sika is it has a screw cap and a couple of times it got stuck!

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Contributing Member
Posted
25 minutes ago, dikman said:

. . .  The down side to the Sika is it has a screw cap and a couple of times it got stuck!

Wipe some vaseline on the screw threads, a fairly heavy coat. That'll stop the cap sticking

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • Members
Posted

Ta, I'll give it a try.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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