Leather glue

[Handstitched]

If my contact  cement  goes a bit gluggy in the tin, I thin it out with some toluene , leave it over night, and it's back to normal.

 

[CdK]

On 10/1/2025 at 9:05 AM, Thadrick said:

OK?

So are you guys popping the lid on wildwood glue each time you use it or are you transferring the glue to a different container and using a different type of applicator?  I've been using barge quart cans with the applicator and a pair of channel lock pliers to get it open every time I need it. Is their a different more convenient method?

On screw top glue containers it is useful to smear a light coat of Vaseline on the threads, this prevents needing to use a tool to unscrew.

[CdK]

On 10/1/2025 at 6:47 AM, TomE said:

I've been using a heat gun to "activate" contact cement - just a brief warming of the glued pieces before assembly.  Bonds well with less cement so I have fewer problems with the glue interfering with burnishing edges.  For some shaped pieces I case the leather lightly and shape the leather before applying the glue, and the heat gun treatment results in a better bond when the leather is damp.  I'm using Barge cement but will probably switch to Weldwood in the future.

 

Cobblers often use a heater prior to placing the pieces together, this activates the contact adhesive to create a good bond. I use a heat gun to activate the dried contact adhesive when laminating vegtan for belts and holsters, similar to what TomE does. The edges are easier to finish as there is less of a visible line where the laminate comes together. YMMV

[sheida bkh]

Hi
I’ve had good luck using a contact-cement style product (Weldwood or Barge) for heavy cowhide work, especially when I’m prepping pieces that won’t be sewn immediately. I apply a thin coat to both flesh sides, let it sit until tacky but not sticky (about 10-15 min), then press with a roller and clamp for 12-24 hours.
If anyone’s interested, you can see my works in my website here : https://paeezleather.com