What Machine Do I Need to Sew 12 mm Leather

[OscarRush]

Hi, (uk based)

Looking for used sewing machine advice, I almost exclusively sew 3 layers of ~3mm thick veg tan leather (Sometimes 4 layers) for tool sheaths.
I’ve got my head around some of the advice on here, in regards to walking feet and needle size. 

wondered if I could get some advice on Exact models to look out for that would handle this work with ease. 
 

any help is greatly appreciated, 

Oscar. 

Edited January 11 by Northmount
Revised title

[AlZilla]

Others will be along, but 12mm is pretty close to a half inch. I'd be looking at something like a Cowboy CB 4500. I'd think you're using pretty thick thread. I think the CB3500 is the same machine just with a shorter arm.

Known genetically as a 441 clone, if that brand isn't available in the UK, something just like it is.

Plenty of other capable machines but that's the one I'm most familiar with.

[Wizcrafts]

@OscarRush

Sewing those thicknesses of veg-tan leather are beyond the scope of upholstery class walking foot machines. You'll need to buy a machine that's built to sew holsters, saddles and horse harnesses. Most of these machines can sew at least a half inch of hard leather. Some, like the cb3500 and 4500 that AlZilla mentioned, can sew 7/8 inch of saddle skirting. I have the 4500 and a bunch of walking foot machines, so I know what I'm talking about. My walking foot machines can sew up to 3/8 inch of chap or garment leather, using #138 bonded thread. My Cowboy cb4500 can sew from just under 8 ounces, up to 52 ounces thickness with very heavy thread, like #441. I personally never go beyond #346, but I could if I needed to.

[Dwight]

And if you are hard up for cash . . . a Tippmann Boss is a manual machine . . . one pull and one push of the lever . . . makes one stitch.

I've sewn some pretty heavy stuff with one of them until I got my Cowboy 4500 . . . 

It'll do what you need . . . brand new for something in the neighborhood of 1000 bucks US.

A cowboy 4500 is over 3000 just for comparison

May God bless,

Dwight

[kgg]

On 1/9/2026 at 11:06 PM, OscarRush said:

Looking for used sewing machine advice, I almost exclusively sew 3 layers of ~3mm thick veg tan leather (Sometimes 4 layers) for tool sheaths.
I’ve got my head around some of the advice on here, in regards to walking feet and needle size. 

For sewing the 12mm or so of leather as previously stated you need a Class 441 machine like the Juki TSC-441 or clone. Finding Tippmann, Cobra machines on that side of the pond will probably be a chore. 

Since you are in the UK:

For New: I would contact Franklin Co. for Cowboy machines https://www.franklinco.co.uk/about/

For Used: I would contact places like  https://leathermachinery.co.uk/   as they seem to have a selection of used machines.

Another option would be to import a 441 class clone machine directly from China for probably about the same price as a good used machine would cost in the UK.

kgg

[Handstitched]

I have a Q Stitch Colt,  from  Queensland,  a 441 clone , and sews through  heavy leather  quite easily.

As a test when I first got it, I put 5 layers of 4mm vt  leather through it,  , did exactly what it said in the ad, albeit  very slowly.

HS 

[OscarRush]

Thank you for all the responses, 

And the recommendations for machines.

Previously I had been told about the Singer 45K, I’ve not seen it mentioned here anywhere is it not a good move? 
 

cheers, Oscar 

[Constabulary]

well, the Singer 45k´s are not what you find very often anymore the "modern equivalent" are FI the Cowboy CB2500 / GA5-1 / Hightex CB105 but they only have drop feed (bottom feed). Noways most leather worker swear on triple feed machines, however IMO heavy needle feed machines like Adler 105-64 are underrated.

I have a 45D91 (German made version of the 45K other than that its the same machine) and 12mm is possible but IMO very much limit due to foot lift and the needle system - you need a little reserve and don´t want to run it at its limit all the time. 9-10mm is what I sew mainly but I only do simple leather work like chest handles. I did some archery stuff for a pal and so forth. This is my machine:

 

Edited January 12 by Constabulary