Members cdthayer Posted March 9, 2009 Members Report Posted March 9, 2009 There are different types of snap setting tools; this is the one I use. ....use your fingertips to press down on the working part of the snap down while you're holding the setting tool, as shown here: Kate I use the same type of tool and anvil, and I believe it's most important to press down on the snap with your fingertips. Press as firmly as possible. It'll sort of pinch your fingers once in a while, but you'll have better luck getting a good set. I've had good luck setting line 24 Dritz (short shank for thin fabrics), and both Tandy and Leather Factory snaps (back when they were two companies) with the long shank by pressing hard with the fingertips. Even when the shank is a little too long for the application, this seems to help keep it from bending as much. CD Quote "I sew, I sew, so it's off to work I go....." My sewing machines:Adler 205-370 (Hand Crank), Adler 205-64 (Hand Crank), Consew 226 (Clutch/Speed Reducer), Singer 111G156 (Hand Crank or Clutch), Singer 111W153 (Clutch), Singer 20U33 (Clutch), Singer 78-3 Needlefeed (Treadle), Singer 20U (Treadle), Singer 29K70 (x2) (Both Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 96-40 w/Darning Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 (Hand Crank), Singer 16-41 (Treadle), Singer 66-1 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 201K4 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 216G Zigzag (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 319W (Treadle)
Members Spence Posted March 9, 2009 Members Report Posted March 9, 2009 (edited) I've found that when it comes time to "flair" the posts, I use an appropriately sized Phillips head screwdriver to get the post to split properly. Once the post starts to "flair," I then use the setting tool designed for the job. Works every time, for me. Patience and light tapping is the key. Edited March 9, 2009 by Spence Quote Spence Mendoza, TX, USA
RustyMelton Posted March 9, 2009 Report Posted March 9, 2009 I had the same problem. I started doing as Wildrose said and use a punch. My problems may have been like Art said about the thickness of the leather. Also as a few people mentioned, be sure and press down firmly on the working part of the snap. I went through a bunch of snaps trying to figure out what the heck was wrong. Also the tool that came with mine really wasn't very good. Quote
Members tonyc1 Posted March 9, 2009 Members Report Posted March 9, 2009 The idea of these is to Roll or Crimp these posts, not to split them! It is much stronger. Tony. Quote
Scott1952 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Report Posted March 9, 2009 Scott,I'm not sure what specific problem you're having with setting line 20 snaps, but here are some photos to show one way to do it that has been successful for me, along with some tips to avoid the problems I encountered when learning how to set them. Starting with the male half of the snap, set the post face-up on something flat and hard, like an anvil. The post goes through the hole in your leather, then the snap goes over that. There are different types of snap setting tools; this is the one I use. One of the problems I had getting snaps to set right happened when the leather was thicker, almost the thickness of the post. There needs to be a small amount of the post showing up through the working part of the snap when the post is struck by the tool. If there isn't enough, the working part of the snap comes off as the end of the post as the post is struck, and the set is unsuccessful. Art made a good suggestion to thin the leather around the hole to make sure there is enough post to grab the working part of the snap. Another way to prevent this problem is to use your fingertips to press down on the working part of the snap down while you're holding the setting tool, as shown here: Tap the setting tool lightly until you start to feel the post giving way. Make sure you are striking the post SQUARELY. If anything starts to feel crooked or lop-sided, then stop, adjust and resume. Once the post starts to split, then give it a couple of hard whacks to set it. When you're done, it should look like this: You can usually see the post splitting, but for the most part, it is flat, and spread around the hole fairly evenly. For the female half of the snap, I use the concave side of my button anvil, since the cap has a slight dome shape. Again, use your fingers to press down on the working part of the snap as you strike the setter, to keep it from popping off the end of the post while you're striking. A few light taps until you feel the post starting to spread and give way, then a couple of hard whacks to set the snap. When you're done, it should look like this, with the post mashed nice and flat inside the working part of the snap, and evenly distributed around the inside of the hole. If the post on this part is not flat enough, it will be very difficult to snap and un-snap the pieces. If you do have difficulty with it, give it a few more whacks. Sometimes, I have also resorted to whacking the post with the flat end of my setting tool to make it nice and flat. If this doesn't help with your specific problem, give us more info and we'll try to help. Kate Kate, Thanks for the great tutorial. This need to be posted for all to use. Scott Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted March 10, 2009 Members Report Posted March 10, 2009 The idea of these is to Roll or Crimp these posts, not to split them! It is much stronger. Point noted. The posts are no doubt stronger if they do not split. I used the word "split", when what I really had in mind to use the tool to flair the end of the post to get it to spread out and lay down evenly on the working part of the snap. I think, though, on the female half, it's pretty hard to get the post to lay that flat on the floor of the snap without at least some minor splitting. On the other hand, I will also point out that, on snaps that I've had to try to remove, even if the post is severely split, I was unable to remove the snap without severely damaging the working part of the snap. That is far more of a load than the snap would be subject to ordinarily. Kate Quote
Members Dwight Posted March 10, 2009 Members Report Posted March 10, 2009 Does anyone have a good trick to setting these miserable line 20/24 snaps? Now I know why people but them in bulk. Thanks Scott Scott, . . . take those Tandy snap setters, . . . give them to your Uncle Bill to use for fishing weights, . . . go to Walmart and get one of their snap pliers. Mine have kinda dark blue handles, a red ring to hold the male part of the snaps in place while being set, . . . and I found them in the sewing section, . . . next to the needles, snaps, thread, etc. When I bought mine, they came with a half dozen size 24 snaps that said .45 Colt on them, . . . and it is one super tool. It has a realy easy learning curve to it, . . . just remember that the flaring point needs to be in contact with the snap as you begin to squeeze the tool. I think they cost about 8 bucks, . . . great investment, . . . I average ruining about one snap in 30 or 40 with them, . . . maybe 1 in 10 with the Tandy tools, . . . and the doing of the snaps is about 1/10th of the time. Additionally, . . . they have a rounded smooth piece that protects the top of your snap. Sometimes my Tandy done snaps looked like I had beat them on both sides. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Scott1952 Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Posted March 10, 2009 Scott, . . . take those Tandy snap setters, . . . give them to your Uncle Bill to use for fishing weights, . . . go to Walmart and get one of their snap pliers. Mine have kinda dark blue handles, a red ring to hold the male part of the snaps in place while being set, . . . and I found them in the sewing section, . . . next to the needles, snaps, thread, etc.When I bought mine, they came with a half dozen size 24 snaps that said .45 Colt on them, . . . and it is one super tool. It has a realy easy learning curve to it, . . . just remember that the flaring point needs to be in contact with the snap as you begin to squeeze the tool. I think they cost about 8 bucks, . . . great investment, . . . I average ruining about one snap in 30 or 40 with them, . . . maybe 1 in 10 with the Tandy tools, . . . and the doing of the snaps is about 1/10th of the time. Additionally, . . . they have a rounded smooth piece that protects the top of your snap. Sometimes my Tandy done snaps looked like I had beat them on both sides. May God bless, Dwight Dwight, Under the cover of darkness, and while my wife was out, I rummaged thru her sewing stuff and low and behold.....snap set plyers! Now if she doesn't miss them I'll be in fat city. Scott Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted March 10, 2009 Members Report Posted March 10, 2009 Under the cover of darkness, and while my wife was out, I rummaged thru her sewing stuff and low and behold.....snap set plyers! Now if she doesn't miss them I'll be in fat city. Heheh! Just tell her she can have a brand-new one. I've used this tool, also, and it works pretty well. I went back to the drive punches years ago for some reason I can no longer remember, but I did use snap pliers for a long time. Kate Quote
Members CaptQuirk Posted August 21, 2016 Members Report Posted August 21, 2016 This is one of many posts that should be a "sticky post", one that stays at the top of the all the other posts in the section. I went through 6-8 snaps the other morning, just trying to get a Line 20 snap to set. That was just the female half, I now have 6-8 male halves left over. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.