my handsewing technique

[Rayban]

I would really like to see what 12 per inch looks....and how and where it is used....on leather.

Thanks.

Edited June 8, 2009 by Rayban

[hidepounder]

I would really like to see what 12 per inch looks....and how and where it is used....on leather.

Thanks.

Primarily used on fine harness work. Not seen very often on western type pieces, except for casework interiors, etc.

[dbusarow]

Seems fairly common on English reins and headstalls. The 12SPI that is. What you find in your typical catalog or tack store is probably not done by hand, unless you are paying several hundred for your headstalls.

Dan

[Kani]

check out these youtube tutorials of hand sewing. 2 different styles.

Edited June 25, 2009 by Kani

[D.A. Kabatoff]

Cory,

You mentioned the leather buckling at the edges... this can be the result of several things including too soft leather, poor awl (bad shape, size and sharpness), and no support for the leather while sewing. Something else you should keep in mind is the quality of your tools and materials. Thonging chisels are made for thonging, not handsewing, and will rarely if ever match up in size with an awl. If you are using the chisel because it marks the angle, get rid of it and find a proper pricking iron. The best modern ones available seem to be from Vergez Blanchard and can still be bought in North America through Siegels of California. I think Marlon mentioned consistency in everything you do and lots of practice... This also means the way you grip your awl; put a mark on the handle so that everytime you grip it, it is in the same place in your hand. Over time this will feel more natural and allow you to make your holes at the same angle without the help of a pricking iron.

Using a good stitching horse (the old ones) that is ergonomically designed will do wonders for your handsewing... the old ones with the clamp mounted on a bench have the clamp turned to the right and leaned to the left so that it matches up with your natural posture (for righthanded people). The stitching horse will also support your work at the edges so that it isn't bending and flexing while you are trying to push your awl through it.

Make sure you are using a properly sized awl for your work that is sharp. If you are trying to use something right off the shelf from Tandy, you will be making the work much more difficult than it needs to be. You may have seen in other threads on the forum that everyone is always going off about the awls that Bob Douglas of Sheridan, Wy is selling... these awls are a good shape and sharp and polished to be used. If you don't want to spend the money on such an awl, you need to get a look at a proper awl and fabricate one yourself... You will also need needles to match your awl size and thread size. If they don't match up you will be using pliers to try and pull your needle through the work on every stitch. You may also wind up with the opposite problem where your awl is too big for the size of thread you are using and the thread isn't big enough to fill the awl hole.

Finally, if you are using pulpy, belly leather that was poorly tanned, you will never get the desired look. You need to learn what makes good leather good... this will come with experience, but you can just about bet like anything, price is often and indicator of quality with leather (not always, but usually).

After you get all the proper tools and materials, proper technique and practice will produce the results you are looking for... don't expect too much too quickly as most good handsewing comes from people with years of experience.

[BearMan]

Hi Everybody,

After getting a good awl blade, the correct needles, & making a good stitching pony, I was able to produce some desent stitching. After looking back at some of my earlier projects, my stitching needed some work. Here's what it looks like now: Ed the"BearMan"

[TomLine]

Cut a channel for the thread to lay in.

First I use a stitch groover to get a nice clean channel. Then I use a overstitch spacer tool mark where the holes go evenly. Then a use a saddler's punch (lacing chisel) to cut nice big fat square holes. They look awful, then close up on their own later.

I got tired of bashing the chisel with a hammer, so I stuck the chisel in a press and just sit there and punch the holes pretty quick now.

Getting the underneath side of the stitching looking good is the hard part now.

[jimsaddler]

Hi Everybody,

After getting a good awl blade, the correct needles, & making a good stitching pony, I was able to produce some desent stitching. After looking back at some of my earlier projects, my stitching needed some work. Here's what it looks like now: Ed the"BearMan"

Hi BearMan

you are getting better, careful on the corners though (the Dead Sailors) they are from a shaep blade dutting a bit too much.

Can I make a comment please to all. Don't sharpen the body of the Awl Blade only the point should be sharpened. The Body has to be polished as it only spreads the Hole to accommodate the bulk of the Threads. My best Awl Blades have all been Hand Made by Me from all sorts of Materials and patience. Even so called Bad Blades can be transformed into good ones. High Tensile Bike Spokes are a good source. Just don't Blame your Awl Blade for not perfect Stitching, blame the lack of practice. By the way a new Blade will take time to wear in as the Leather is a natural Polisher and will polish it's way to being so easy to use.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

[Monticore]

any tricks to corners i get a nice square corner top side but underneath i can't seem to get a nice square. with a saddle stitch i get 1 thread trying to kinda cross over the other one(if that makes sense)

cory

[jimsaddler]

any tricks to corners i get a nice square corner top side but underneath i can't seem to get a nice square. with a saddle stitch i get 1 thread trying to kinda cross over the other one(if that makes sense)

cory

Do you throw your back stitch?

Best sewing is done by throwing the back thread up and over the emerging Needle. This will give you the same slope as the front if you do it right. Most stitch by leaving the thread at the bottom which leaves a dull stitch that never looks as good as the face. By picking up the thread and throwing it over the needle it will form a simple knot in the Leather and give you the same slope, front and back.

Someone asked about 12#(per inch) stitching. Fine well done stitching is the ultimate!! Please try it People. I see exhibitions of such and such and the raves about the beautiful stitching sometimes as coarse as 4# or 5#. It upsets me to see it as over here it is called a "Jacko Job" ( Jacko was a really rough worker years ago, allways in a hurry so he stitched very coarse and charged a Bob (one Shilling) a stitch). Actually I was taught to use 8# as normal, 10# as good and 12# as best and that was the norm throughout the Trade.

I might add that we had some beautiful Leathers to work with then. Not like the Dry under worked Leathers we get to-day. I used to ask my Tanner to work the Cods Oil, Soap and Tallow in by Hand and it made for beautiful Leather to Sew ( lasted longer too).

I am still trying to get a Demo DVD produced to help explain what I'm saying. Maybe now that I've started teaching Stock Saddle making I'll be able to find a Student who will be able to operate the Camera for a bit and edit the results.

Enough for now, Please have a happy Day.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.