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Hi everyone,

I am asking this out of financial desperation. I want to make my own blue guns so I dont have to pay forty five dollars per gun. I dont know how to do this though. Do any of you know how to make your own gun molds? I would like to know how to do this. Thanks.

John.

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John,

I don't know about blue guns as to their specific properties but here's a great site that I have used in the past for various castings...

Smooth On

They have many free How-To Guides here. There are guides to show you how to make a mold and pour a substitute for the real weapon. These will give you an idea of how to do it but be forewarned this is NOT going to meet your financial desperation criteria. It is expensive to get into casting with release agents, molds, material and so forth. Not to mention that experimentaiton is always costly.

Regards,

Ben

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John,

I don't know about blue guns as to their specific properties but here's a great site that I have used in the past for various castings...

Smooth On

They have many free How-To Guides here. There are guides to show you how to make a mold and pour a substitute for the real weapon. These will give you an idea of how to do it but be forewarned this is NOT going to meet your financial desperation criteria. It is expensive to get into casting with release agents, molds, material and so forth. Not to mention that experimentaiton is always costly.

Regards,

Ben

Thanks, that's just what I am looking for. if it's too expensive then I might not do it. It's just something I thought I might try.

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Thanks, that's just what I am looking for. if it's too expensive then I might not do it. It's just something I thought I might try.

It never hurts to try something new. Ummmm.... usually it doesn't. :innocent:

Good luck.

Regards,

Ben

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Hi everyone,

I am asking this out of financial desperation. I want to make my own blue guns so I dont have to pay forty five dollars per gun. I dont know how to do this though. Do any of you know how to make your own gun molds? I would like to know how to do this. Thanks.

John.

I have not tried this, . . . but plan on doing it some time.

Make 2 wooden boxes that have no tops, . . . 2 inches longer, wider, and thicker than your handgun.

Fill each box with minimal expanding foam (about $5 for the can) and then cover each full box with a couple layers of saran wrap.

Gently lay the handgun down on one box full of foam and press it so that it sinks down about half way, . . . press the other box full of foam down onto the first one so that the edges line up, . . . wrap the boxes with a couple rounds of duct tape, . . . set it up on a shelf, . . . come back tomorrow morning, . . . cut the tape, . . . extract the gun, . . . you have a mold.

This is where it gets dicey, . . . I haven't found the hard plastic I would like to have for the actual gun copy, . . . gotta do some research on that, . . . but you need to take some #12 copper wire (it bends easily with pliers) and use them like concrete re-rod to strengthen your gun copy, . . . place them in each half of the mold.

Pour each half of the mold up level with the top and allow it to harden, . . . sand the pieces, . . . glue them together, . . . voila, . . . fake gun.

Again, . . . I haven't done this, . . . I hope to some day in the near future, . . . but right now it is hay time, . . . mowing time, . . . roof repair time, . . . and I'm helping a buddy put a sump pump into his basement floor.

Good luck, may God bless,

Dwight

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I have not tried this, . . . but plan on doing it some time.

Make 2 wooden boxes that have no tops, . . . 2 inches longer, wider, and thicker than your handgun.

Fill each box with minimal expanding foam (about $5 for the can) and then cover each full box with a couple layers of saran wrap.

Gently lay the handgun down on one box full of foam and press it so that it sinks down about half way, . . . press the other box full of foam down onto the first one so that the edges line up, . . . wrap the boxes with a couple rounds of duct tape, . . . set it up on a shelf, . . . come back tomorrow morning, . . . cut the tape, . . . extract the gun, . . . you have a mold.

This is where it gets dicey, . . . I haven't found the hard plastic I would like to have for the actual gun copy, . . . gotta do some research on that, . . . but you need to take some #12 copper wire (it bends easily with pliers) and use them like concrete re-rod to strengthen your gun copy, . . . place them in each half of the mold.

Pour each half of the mold up level with the top and allow it to harden, . . . sand the pieces, . . . glue them together, . . . voila, . . . fake gun.

Again, . . . I haven't done this, . . . I hope to some day in the near future, . . . but right now it is hay time, . . . mowing time, . . . roof repair time, . . . and I'm helping a buddy put a sump pump into his basement floor.

Good luck, may God bless,

Dwight

That sounds like it might work.

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this might be a silly question, but do you have to mold both sides of the gun? It seems a lot of the holsters I'm seeing on here are a front molded panel stitched to a back flat panel (or just slightly molded). I've seen guys do metal casting using fine wet sand. You would take a wooden box filled with the moist sand, put your gun into it (probably wrapped in something very thin unless you have a Glock which can live through anything), smash the sand in tight around it, then extract it. Then you poor your metal into the cast. You would get a good impression, with a flat back side. The materials and setup for this might be cheaper than doing resin casting. I have no idea if it would work or be applicable, but I'm just spit balling. Maybe there are some casters/smiths in here who have some experience. Either way, sometimes it's much more expensive to get into something like this vs. buying the blur gun unless you're doing a bunch of them.

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I have not tried this, . . . but plan on doing it some time.

Make 2 wooden boxes that have no tops, . . . 2 inches longer, wider, and thicker than your handgun.

Fill each box with minimal expanding foam (about $5 for the can) and then cover each full box with a couple layers of saran wrap.

Gently lay the handgun down on one box full of foam and press it so that it sinks down about half way, . . . press the other box full of foam down onto the first one so that the edges line up, . . . wrap the boxes with a couple rounds of duct tape, . . . set it up on a shelf, . . . come back tomorrow morning, . . . cut the tape, . . . extract the gun, . . . you have a mold.

This is where it gets dicey, . . . I haven't found the hard plastic I would like to have for the actual gun copy, . . . gotta do some research on that, . . . but you need to take some #12 copper wire (it bends easily with pliers) and use them like concrete re-rod to strengthen your gun copy, . . . place them in each half of the mold.

Pour each half of the mold up level with the top and allow it to harden, . . . sand the pieces, . . . glue them together, . . . voila, . . . fake gun.

Again, . . . I haven't done this, . . . I hope to some day in the near future, . . . but right now it is hay time, . . . mowing time, . . . roof repair time, . . . and I'm helping a buddy put a sump pump into his basement floor.

Good luck, may God bless,

Dwight

I've done quite a bit of resin casting and not to rain on your parade but that technique will be very hit and miss with using hard plastic (resin) as you are only likely to get one casting and the first cast isn't always a good one. Silicone really is the best thing to use for molds when casting resin you don't have to do a full block mold which will use alot of silicone you can do a matrix or skin mold, here is an example of how to do them here http://www.conceptart.org/forums/showthread.php?t=47324

If you definately can't afford silicone liquid latex can be used but it takes longer to make a mold as you need to wait for the layers to set up, though there are thicker versions around which will make the process quicker.

In the long run you are'nt going to save any money by casting unless your after quite a few multiples of each gun model as you need the blue gun or the real thing in the first place to make the mold. If you are wanting to do multiples silicone is definately the way to go as you will get more casts out of silicone than you will for liquid latex.

Hope this is of some help

Cheers,

Clair

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Have you thought of making wooden models of the guns? i have done this for a few hard to find models such as the Taurus "Judge". Of course these were not super tight highly boned holsters, but they worked quite well for basic holster stretching and forming.

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John, I understand the red or blue guns can get quite expensive.what you can do is look up Airsolf.com look at the spring loaded pistols. You can get them from $5 up to $30. They are a hard plastic of a 1:1 ratio. look upder :airsolfofatl.com then click on spring. let me know what you think,Stephen

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John, I understand the red or blue guns can get quite expensive.what you can do is look up Airsolf.com look at the spring loaded pistols. You can get them from $5 up to $30. They are a hard plastic of a 1:1 ratio. look upder :airsolfofatl.com then click on spring. let me know what you think,Stephen

Thanks Stephen,

I will check into it.

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FWIW,

"Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty" is decent casting material.

Its a powder you mix with water, easy to use. and once it sets its durable.

Peace

ST~

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I've done quite a bit of resin casting and not to rain on your parade but that technique will be very hit and miss with using hard plastic (resin) as you are only likely to get one casting and the first cast isn't always a good one. Silicone really is the best thing to use for molds when casting resin you don't have to do a full block mold which will use alot of silicone you can do a matrix or skin mold, here is an example of how to do them here http://www.conceptart.org/forums/showthread.php?t=47324

If you definately can't afford silicone liquid latex can be used but it takes longer to make a mold as you need to wait for the layers to set up, though there are thicker versions around which will make the process quicker.

In the long run you are'nt going to save any money by casting unless your after quite a few multiples of each gun model as you need the blue gun or the real thing in the first place to make the mold. If you are wanting to do multiples silicone is definately the way to go as you will get more casts out of silicone than you will for liquid latex.

Hope this is of some help

Cheers,

Clair

Acidic Silicone, as found in home improvement stores, can also be used as a mold making material. I've found GE Silicone I in the clear formula to be the easiest to work with. I've been told that Silicone II also works but have not tried it. The key is to 'inject' water into the silicone solution to promote curing. It's a cheep substitute for two-part silicone and not as durable but you should be able to get a couple of uses out of a single mold. I don't remember the exact ratio, but I mix about 15 drops of glycerin and 5 drops of acrylic paint to about 4 oz of silicone. A 1/4 inch thick mold will completely cure overnight. If it's not curing fast enough, retry with more glycerin. The glycerin adds the curing agent and the paint is supposed to help you visually see that everything is mixed properly, but I have found that the paint helps in curing as well. Your piece to be molded should be completely protected as the acid in the silicone can do some funny things to metals - and I don't mean in a good way. :head_hurts_kr: The silicone can be thinned with Zippo lighter fluid (sorry, forget the actual fuel this is) at the cost of making the final mold more brittle.

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Acidic Silicone, as found in home improvement stores, can also be used as a mold making material. I've found GE Silicone I in the clear formula to be the easiest to work with. I've been told that Silicone II also works but have not tried it. The key is to 'inject' water into the silicone solution to promote curing. It's a cheep substitute for two-part silicone and not as durable but you should be able to get a couple of uses out of a single mold. I don't remember the exact ratio, but I mix about 15 drops of glycerin and 5 drops of acrylic paint to about 4 oz of silicone. A 1/4 inch thick mold will completely cure overnight. If it's not curing fast enough, retry with more glycerin. The glycerin adds the curing agent and the paint is supposed to help you visually see that everything is mixed properly, but I have found that the paint helps in curing as well. Your piece to be molded should be completely protected as the acid in the silicone can do some funny things to metals - and I don't mean in a good way. :head_hurts_kr: The silicone can be thinned with Zippo lighter fluid (sorry, forget the actual fuel this is) at the cost of making the final mold more brittle.

I've used this but it's a bit hit and miss in Australia whether it works or not so I gave up on it. You guys in America seem to have alot better selection than us.

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if youre trying to do it on the cheap, then its the materials that will get you.

as others have pointed out, you will need to make a negative of the gun and then the positive.

there are alot of good ideas so far, but i personally havent priced anything.

you can look into plaster of paris for a mold making material. one drawback is that the mold can get heavy and bulky.

im not sure how much paper mache mix/ingredients cost, but it could be another way to make a mold.

if you live in a clay rich environment, it could be outside in your yard. or maybe even the clay sculpture people use?

iac, it will be fun to see what you come up with and how much $$$ you can save.

btw, where are you going to get the guns for the mold?

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if youre trying to do it on the cheap, then its the materials that will get you.

as others have pointed out, you will need to make a negative of the gun and then the positive.

there are alot of good ideas so far, but i personally havent priced anything.

you can look into plaster of paris for a mold making material. one drawback is that the mold can get heavy and bulky.

im not sure how much paper mache mix/ingredients cost, but it could be another way to make a mold.

if you live in a clay rich environment, it could be outside in your yard. or maybe even the clay sculpture people use?

iac, it will be fun to see what you come up with and how much $$$ you can save.

btw, where are you going to get the guns for the mold?

I was thinking of using guns my friends and family let me borrow, so it is extremely important that the weapons I use are returned in the exact condition as I got them.

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I was thinking of using guns my friends and family let me borrow, so it is extremely important that the weapons I use are returned in the exact condition as I got them.

i was thinking/hoping the same.

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if youre trying to do it on the cheap, then its the materials that will get you.

you can look into plaster of paris for a mold making material. one drawback is that the mold can get heavy and bulky.

im not sure how much paper mache mix/ingredients cost, but it could be another way to make a mold.

if you live in a clay rich environment, it could be outside in your yard. or maybe even the clay sculpture people use?

iac, it will be fun to see what you come up with and how much $$ you can save.

btw, where are you going to get the guns for the mold?

If your using other peoples guns to make the mold I wouldn't use plaster of paris or anything else hard because if you haven't made molds before it's very possible that you won't get the parting lines correct or undercut on a one piece mold and the gun will get locked in. It will be no fun to try and dig out a gun from a plaster mold and your likely to damage the gun trying to get it out. Usually the rule is for soft originals eg a plasticine sculpture use a hard mold (plaster) and for a hard original (gun) use a soft mold (silicone, latex) with a hard backing to save on costs (plaster, fibreglass).

The Smooth On website has video tutorials that will show you how to make all the different molds and I think there was examples of people making gun props for movies.

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I cudden afford those blue guns either so I made some outta a piece of plastic decking material I got from Home Depot. Don't know what the material is called but you build decks with it. Comes in planks about a inch thick and 8 foot long or longer. About 20 bucks a plank for a 8 footer. But the material mills well with common woodworking tools. I used a table saw with regular ol' carbide blade, a router table with a bull nose router bit and a dremel tool with a roundy grinding/carving bit and some sandpaper. It cuts clean and sands nice and smooth. Best of all if you're using them for wet molding water dudden affect it. I put a piece of it in a jar of water overnight and it didden do anything, no swelling up. Oh yeah you need a digital caliper too if you want it to be dead on accurate in size.

I didden need the whole gun just the part that goes in the holster so my dummy might look a little wierd to you but it works perfectly and have made a lotta holsters for a Ruger LCP with them. Took me better part of a day to figure out how to make the first one, then I made eight more the next day. The handle on these are short cause the handle don't figure in when molding my little holster. Just made a piece of it so the dummy would lay at the right angle in the holster. The area carved away behind the trigger also doesn't matter as the holster only comes up to the back of the trigger guard. Both sides are carved. By the time I have molded nine of them the first is dry enuff to take out the dummy and keep on molding. I only make this one holster.

dummygun.jpg

dummyguns1.jpg

dummygunsupsidedown.jpg

Edited by UncleGeorge

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John, I understand the red or blue guns can get quite expensive.what you can do is look up Airsolf.com look at the spring loaded pistols. You can get them from $5 up to $30. They are a hard plastic of a 1:1 ratio. look upder :airsolfofatl.com then click on spring. let me know what you think,Stephen

Yeah, seriously, I play airsoft as a hobby, and the sidearms are 1:1 scale with the real thing, if they're not exact they're damn near close enough for making leather holsters. I have airsoft versions of a Glock 17 and a Kimber 1911 single stack, and I can't tell the difference between them and the real thing without dropping a mag.

Look for the cheap spring pistols, not the high-end gas-powered ones. It'll be obvious from the price which you're looking at - the "springers" are well under $30 and the gas guns are well over $60. Most "springers" are $15 or so.

Here's a few places to look:

http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/category_s/1.htm

http://www.shortyusa.com/cart/index.html?U...;NL=&kiosk=

http://www.trinityairsoft.com/c-105-spring-pistols.aspx

http://www.airsoftpost.com/airsoft-guns-sp...57208e819af78ef

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This has been bouncing into my head for a week or so. Try using plastic auto body filler (Bondo is the big brand name), check auto body supply shop, much cheeper than auto parts retailer. For the casting of the pattern, try the "duraglass" type filler, much tougher. I would seat the firearm in a plastic bag of some kind, vacume seal or something like that. The last time I purched any type of auto body plastic it was about $20.00 a gallon. I've heard of people making molds and patterns this way for limited production on the cheep. I found this after a two minute google search http://hacknmod.com/hack/the-power-of-bondo-a-comprehensive-tutorial/

Please let us know about progress.

Edited by MBOGO

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