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WHAT you use is not nearly as important as HOW you use it.I know of guys who have sharpened a knife (in a pinch) on the bottom of a coffee mug or on a car window. Seriously.The simplest, cheapest method is something woodworking folks call 'Scary Sharp'. It consists of a series of sandpapers - from maybe 200 grit to as high as you can go (800 grit or better). The paper needs to be mounted on something very flat - a piece of glass works great. Tape it on the glass, wet it with a light oil (e.g., gun oil or WD-40). As you get a decent edge with the most coarse paper, set up the next highest grit.Key to this is finding the right angle and MAINTAINING that angle. That's why so many people end up using commercial gadgets - they just don't keep a constant angle. Like anything else that takes practice. If need be, cut a piece of wood to the angle matching your blade and keep it nearby.When you get done sharpening the blade, there will be a 'wire-edge'. Steel flows a bit as you're sharpening and this wire edge will feel very sharp, but will fold over the first time you use the knife. Strop it on a piece of leather to get rid of the wire edge and you'll have a quality edge that will stay sharp. (Assuming, of course, that you have a decent knife steel to begin with.)The basic same techniques also apply if you are using diamond sharpeners or stones.As for practice, don't do that on your best leather or hunting knives. Go to the kitchen; there are ALWAYS knives that need sharpening in the kitchen. Work out your techniques on them.

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If you want scary sharp, easily, it is really hard to beat a cardboard stone. Buy a harbor freight bench buffer and replace the stone and buffer with the cardboard wheels. Once you learn to use them (easy) you will see how simple it is to reach and maintain scary sharp.

Aaron

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If you want scary sharp, easily, it is really hard to beat a cardboard stone. Buy a harbor freight bench buffer and replace the stone and buffer with the cardboard wheels. Once you learn to use them (easy) you will see how simple it is to reach and maintain scary sharp.

Aaron

Cardboard wheels? First I've heard of them

SkipJ

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Posted

10841239.meatwork.jpg

bang for the buck...

Jig made from wooden pallets, cheap stones, wet and dry or a second hand oil stone, leather which we all have some of, boot laces and toothpaste.

ALthough really toothpaste sucks in long term use.

I can't seen how the jig works. Too dark a picture on my screen. Is it just me?

SkipJ

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If you look under the stone you will see the knife blade poking out.

The stones are tied to the wood which slides ontop of the rack right side, the rope on it is to keep it alligned perfectly,

You slide the wood/stones over the blade curing around the belly, back and forth back and forth.

You work that till there is a burr, then change sides...

That clear it up any?

If it doesn't go to youtube and look up cutlerylover, he has an excellent demo of the edgepro apex...

If you look under the stone you will see the knife blade poking out.

The stones are tied to the wood which slides ontop of the rack right side, the rope on it is to keep it alligned perfectly,

You slide the wood/stones over the blade curing around the belly, back and forth back and forth.

You work that till there is a burr, then change sides...

That clear it up any?

If it doesn't go to youtube and look up cutlerylover, he has an excellent demo of the edgepro apex...

Doing the right thing is bleeding for the cause.

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I thought i'd add my two cents. I don't know if anyone has talked about this yet but weaver sells stuff called aluminum oxide. It's so cool. It's a gray power that you sprinkle on a leather strop and use it just like rouge. I first get a good edge on a stone... then hone it down on with the oxide and then polish it with the rouge. It gets plenty sharp to cut through heavy skirting leather with ease. There are some good videos on youtube about sharpening. One guy sharpens his on a cinder block and gets it sharp enough to shave. It's 10% what you use 90% technique.

www.neveshorses.com

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Posted (edited)

I am looking for some sharpening help. Have been looking over all the options, wet stone, oil stone, diamond stone, sand paper....... Am wondering what works, how it works, why it doesn't work. What would be the best all purpose sharpening set up for a shop. From sharpening/shaping to stroping/polishing.

Thank you for your time and input,

Rob

Hi Rob,

I can help on this.. The answer to your question is "paper wheels" on a buffer Your can make your knife "vorpal" sharp in a New York minute w/o risking damage to the blade. It's an easy learning curve. I was intirduced to them over a year ago and have been a devotee since. I 've been a traditional "whet stone" sharpener since 1969.

The one thing the paper wheels do not provide is the "Zen meditation" or Mushin (mind of no mind) that gliding a blade over a stone gives ...

Now, the wheels are easy to use and affordable. Go Here and read through the entirethread. Richard J. is the guy with the knowledge. I also use his technique of the one o'clock hold with the wheel spinning towards me... unsure.gif

I puchase my 8 in wheels from Grizzly Tools wheels and a buffer from harbor frieght buffer . I practised sharpening with a pack of cheap hack saw blade edges to get the feel. I then set my sites to the kitchen... W/in the first hour I had the the brides kitchen knives cutting like light sabers, then I convinced the neighbors to give me their kitchen tools.

It's that easy.

Goog Luck LMK if you have any questions

Peace

Tal~

Edited by AZ09

Take your time... Don't live too fast,

Troubles will come and they will pass....

Posted

Tal none of the kinks work. They all go to a add site.

I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.

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