skyblast Report post Posted July 9, 2010 I think that I am using the right products but I think I may be using them in the wrong order. Here are the steps I use after a holster has been assembled and burnished (burnished using only water). 1) dye and let dry for a few hours (Feibings non pro dye) 2) using a dry cloth wipe off excess dye. 3) Spray on Saddle Soap to clean off any dye that did not take...let dry 4) Dye again let dry over night 5) Lexol to moisturize 6) Resolene (if only the dye looks good) It is in step 5 where I have been noticing dye coming off. Dye coming off to the point where I can seen bare leather showing through. Any suggestions? I get the feeling that I am way out of whack here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David Report post Posted July 9, 2010 I think that I am using the right products but I think I may be using them in the wrong order. Here are the steps I use after a holster has been assembled and burnished (burnished using only water). 1) dye and let dry for a few hours (Feibings non pro dye) 2) using a dry cloth wipe off excess dye. 3) Spray on Saddle Soap to clean off any dye that did not take...let dry 4) Dye again let dry over night 5) Lexol to moisturize 6) Resolene (if only the dye looks good) It is in step 5 where I have been noticing dye coming off. Dye coming off to the point where I can seen bare leather showing through. Any suggestions? I get the feeling that I am way out of whack here. My sequence goes something like: 1 I use Lexol as I am tooling the leather. 2 Neatsfoot oil let stand over night 3 Dye only once let stand until dry 4 Wet leather and apply antiquing paste while wet. 5 Wipe off paste immediately. Dry overnight 6 Rub on NeatLac using cloth. 7 Aussie Cream or Leather Balm Done Dave Theobald Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leatherimages Report post Posted July 10, 2010 I'd recommend dying the leather before assembly, certainly before molding. The molding/burnishing is probably inhibiting the dye from penetrating. But oil after all molding is complete. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted July 10, 2010 Try Feiblings Pro Oil Dye in your sequence. It's all I use. Eveery time I stray from it, I am not satisfied with the results. Bondo Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skyblast Report post Posted July 10, 2010 Thank you everyone. Lots of things to experiment with now!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mendedbowl Report post Posted December 15, 2010 My sequence goes something like: 1 I use Lexol as I am tooling the leather. 2 Neatsfoot oil let stand over night 3 Dye only once let stand until dry 4 Wet leather and apply antiquing paste while wet. 5 Wipe off paste immediately. Dry overnight 6 Rub on NeatLac using cloth. 7 Aussie Cream or Leather Balm Done Dave Theobald Dave, can you explain how you use Lexol while tooling? do you use it in a casing solution? or just straight from the bottle? i mix the casing solution that contains Lexol, but when i use it i have a little trouble getting an even dye job. (i air brush fiebing's pro oil dye) i wonder if i should be using a deglazer after tooling, but i worry if wetting again will dull the tooling impressions. also, how do you apply neatsfoot oil? can that stuff be air brushed on? thanks for any help, ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted December 16, 2010 Try Feiblings Pro Oil Dye in your sequence. It's all I use. Eveery time I stray from it, I am not satisfied with the results. Bondo Bob Thank you, Bondo Bob, . . . thought for a while I was alone I have one exception to the above, . . . it is a special color I cannot (haven't figured it out yet, truthfully), . . . get using Pro Oil dyes. Other than that, . . . Pro is my only dye for all my projects. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites