Needles And Threads

[Oldiesfan]

1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

Those threads are glazed, or mercerized, but not bonded. You will have a hard time using cotton or linen thread is a normal sewing machine. The shoe threads are usually waxed before you sew. In the case of a sole stitcher, the wax is in a pot that feeds to a barbed needle. This strengthens the fibers. If you run this thread through a standard sewing machine, without wax, it will probably break during the take-up cycle. At least that was my experience with Barbour's Irish Linen glazed thread when I last tried it.

When this thread is ( maybe ) waxed , why should i wax it again . On my 45k89 is a huge waxe pot . So I this machine can handle waxed thread ... i think ! 

 

"Glaze or mercerised,  but not Bonded"  . What do you mean with bonded ? 

The machines i use for sewing are 132k6 ,132ksv18 and a 45k89 ( with waxe pot on top ) 

[Wizcrafts]

15 minutes ago, Oldiesfan said:

"Glaze or mercerised,  but not Bonded"  . What do you mean with bonded ? 

Most people who sew leather, vinyl and canvas use synthetic thread that has been coated in a polymer or resin that bonds the filaments together so they don't untwist as you sew. Some threads are more heavily bonded than others. But, any bonding is better than none. Glazed thread is smoothed out and the little cotton or linen fibers don't stick out. It is better  than just mercerized, but not as strong as synthetic bonded thread.

Here is a definition of Mercerized thread.

[Oldiesfan]

51 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Most people who sew leather, vinyl and canvas use synthetic thread that has been coated in a polymer or resin that bonds the filaments together so they don't untwist as you sew. Some threads are more heavily bonded than others. But, any bonding is better than none. Glazed thread is smoothed out and the little cotton or linen fibers don't stick out. It is better  than just mercerized, but not as strong as synthetic bonded thread.

Here is a definition of Mercerized thread.

 

Thanks for explaining!

Tuesday the rolls of thread will arrive.  The Glazed Thread will arrive.  I'm very curious this time , curious about how it feels / looks and the strength.  And how large these rolls are .

[regius]

A lot of good discussion about thread here. I have a needle-specific question. I noticed the Juki DNU1541 and it s cousins and clones take the "135" system needles, so, regardless of the diameter of the blade (the NM number) and the size (after the /, like 135/17, size 17 needle), there is always a 135 somewhere on my needle packages, from Groz to Schemtz. Then the LU1508NH uses a longer needle, and has the number 190 on top of other numbers. 

What number designates the length of the needle?

 

also, on the Juki Lu1508 user manual, under "1508NH" column, they put "CROS-BECKER 190, NM125 TO NM 180". This only means their recommended needle right? I don't have to buy GROZ and don't really have to stitck to NM125, can be thinner than NM125?

[LindanHotAir]

The designation 135x17 is the needle system. The size is stated usually as 2 different numbers: 16, 18, we , etc which is a size that increases with shaft diameter, and a metric size which is in hundredths of a millimeter. For example, 110 is 1.1mm diameter. A 135x16 is the designation for leather needles that run in machines set up for 135x17, typically Singer 111 and the clones (certain models from Juki, Consew, Brother, Seiko , Mitsubishi, and others).

[kgg]

8 hours ago, regius said:

also, on the Juki Lu1508 user manual, under "1508NH" column, they put "CROS-BECKER 190, NM125 TO NM 180". This only means their recommended needle right? I don't have to buy GROZ and don't really have to stitck to NM125, can be thinner than NM125?

The needle specification for the Juki's needle size is the guaranteed rated needle size that will work for both top and bobbin thread size. Some people like one manufacturer of needles over another. My choice is the  SCHMETZ brand.

The nm 125 (#20) is for V92 thread in both the top and bobbin while the NM180 (#24) is for V138 thread in both the top and bobbin. Even through the NM180 (#24) can accept V207 thread. It appears Juki has allowed for going up one needle size to accommodate using V138 in thick, tough leather so to give the V138 thread enough head clearance at the hook. Some clone machines will say they can accept V207 but may not accept V207 in the bobbin which is something to check.

On the lower end the Juki probably will accept a needle slightly smaller but the head clearance at the hook will probably be to great and may not consistently pickup the top thread to form a stitch and end up with no or skipped stitches.

Since the Juki 1508 is made for thick heavy sewing to get it dumbed down for material that would normally require V46 or V69 thread maybe a bit off a challenge. If you are only needing to use V46 or V69 thread I would recommend you look at a Juki 1541S that has a rated thread usage of V46 to V138. With my 1541S it really doesn't like thin material and has to be dumbed down so I would imagine the 1508 would be the same or worse. If all you need is a walking foot the Juki 1181N rated at V46 to V92 maybe a option.I have used V138 top and bobbin with no problems in my Juki 1181N.

kgg

[Wizcrafts]

11 hours ago, regius said:

What number designates the length of the needle?

None. Each needle "system" is an agreed upon combination of numbers and letters that needle manufacturers stick to when they make needles for various sewing machines. So, a System 135x anything needle might be several different lengths. 135x5, 135x7, 135x9, 135x16 are all different needle geometries. The walking foot machines you are looking at use system 135x16 (leather point), 135x17 (round cloth point), or if specially modified, system 190 (Pfaff) needles. System 135x16 are about 1.75" long. System 190 are about 3/16" longer. The Juki LU-1508NH is modified to allow for the longer needle to cycle up and down without hitting the feet at the maximum rated height, while still being in time with the hook. This needle would hit the raised feet in a different machine that is not expecting the longer needles. This is never a good thing.

If one chooses to use a needle that is not meant for a specific machine, assuming the shank fits into the needle clamping black, the hook must be retimed to intersect above the needle's eye as it moves up from BDC. People do this on old antique sewing machines that were meant to use needle systems that are no longer produced. They often move the needle bar down so they can use a common needle system, line 135x16 or 135x17. This then requires checking and possibly adjusting the timing of the hook.

While there is little information to be gleaned from the needle system designation, the "size" is a known commodity. As was mentioned by a previous respondent, the metric sizes actually correspond to measured diameters. Thus, a number 18 needle which has the second size of 110 on the label has a diameter of 1.10mm. Unfortunately, the old Singer numbering system only corresponds to the relative diameters. Those numbers are standardized, so all #18 needles *should* be equal in diameter to any other manufacturer's #18 needle. Obviously, the metric sizes will match across manufactures as well.

You can get more fetching up about the relationship between thread and needles by reading the needle and thread chart on this page.

[Silerleatherworks]

Please explain Leather point Needle

 

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, Silerleatherworks said:

Please explain Leather point Needle

 

This should help explain leather point needles: https://www.schmetz.com/en/industrial-needles/needle-compass/cutting-points/

[Frodo]

Rex 26-188

what would be the best needle/thread combination for holsters and belts?