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Posted

What about just Neatsfoot oil and Beeswax? it's easy to make and apply and is water resistant as long as you reapply once a year or so. It's 100% natural, doesn't change the color of the leather much if at all and it's got a long history behind it. It won't ruin your stitching, doesn't leave a chemical odor and did I mention that it's easy?

Personally it's my favorite if I'm looking for a mat finish. I made up 8 ounces of the stuff a while back and it lasts forever.

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I have John Bianchi's three disk DVD set - "The Art & Secrets of Advanced Western Holster Making" from 2006. For the finish dressing, he refers to the finish coat as "Tandy's leather coat finish dressing" and as "several coats of Tandy harness dressing leather finish". He uses sheep's wool to apply it and has whatever the product is in it is in an after market container that is not labelled. Whatever it is, he puts on several coats. I looked at Tandy's website, but am not sure which finish Bianchi is referring to. The video is only a couple years old, so I'd think Tandy still carries the stuff. Maybe Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax???

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I would try to persuade the customer to allow you to finish the holster as you normally would. There is a reason for it and most customers may have a tough time understanding the why behind what we do. Try to share that with them and the downside of not doing so. You can still put a final finish with wax. Veg tanned without sealer lends itself to moisture issues in the near future. IMHO.

Posted

What about just Neatsfoot oil and Beeswax? it's easy to make and apply and is water resistant as long as you reapply once a year or so. It's 100% natural, doesn't change the color of the leather much if at all and it's got a long history behind it. It won't ruin your stitching, doesn't leave a chemical odor and did I mention that it's easy?

Personally it's my favorite if I'm looking for a mat finish. I made up 8 ounces of the stuff a while back and it lasts forever.

can you explain how you mix this?

Posted

I have John Bianchi's three disk DVD set - "The Art & Secrets of Advanced Western Holster Making" from 2006. For the finish dressing, he refers to the finish coat as "Tandy's leather coat finish dressing" and as "several coats of Tandy harness dressing leather finish". He uses sheep's wool to apply it and has whatever the product is in it is in an after market container that is not labelled. Whatever it is, he puts on several coats. I looked at Tandy's website, but am not sure which finish Bianchi is referring to. The video is only a couple years old, so I'd think Tandy still carries the stuff. Maybe Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax???

I should recieve that set any day now. I was hoping to find out what he uses. I have a guy that I'm making a western rig for and I want something that'll be flexible and not too glossy. i've been doing some google searches on making belts instead of holsters, and a few of the guys are using the Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax. I think there's so many options out there, it's gonna be hard to decide.

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Posted

The old fashioned bees wax / neatsfoot oil recipe is really easy: equal parts of each, . . . by weight !!!!!

Put in a glass jar, . . . put the glass jar in water in a crock pot, . . . go have some coffee and a doughnut or two, . . . come back when the wax is melted and you have only liquid in the glass jar.

Pour that liquid into something like cupcake papers (in a muffin pan) and allow it to THOROUGHLY cool.

You use it similar to Kiwi shoe polish, . . . I usually rub it in with my fingers, . . . judiciously use a WARM heat gun to help melt it a bit, . . . takes about 3 good applications, . . . it actually is MY favorite finish, . . . but it is not as durable as the acrylics.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

I found a quick way to make / melt wax finishes is to use one of those pitchers with the internal heat plate. You can get one at any X-mart of your choice. They are around 15 -20 bucks, and boil water about 60% faster than a microwave. I've used this method for hide glue and wood finishes for years and it works fantastic for any oil/wax combination.

Just save and clean a soup can or whatever size can will fit in the pitcher to melt your potion in, and pull it out of the hot water with pliers.

Jake

Once you know what the magician know.... it isn't magic anymore.

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Posted

I frequently use Montana Pitch Blend as my final finish. It is a wax, oil, pitch combination. It is as good of a waterproofer as the 50/50 acrylic. It is easy to apply by just rubbing it in at room temperature.

Montana Pitch blend web site shows several products is it the MPB cream that you use and does the pine smell go away?

Scott

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Posted (edited)

Montana Pitch blend web site shows several products is it the MPB cream that you use and does the pine smell go away?

Scott

I use their Leather Dressing. The pine smell does fade.

Edited by evandailey
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Posted

I use MPB all the time, both the dressing and the oil. I ask customers if the pine scent is objectionable before treating, if it is, I use Pecard's instead. MPB is all natural and is antimicrobial, Pecard's is not. They both work great, but don't overdo either, only go for a second coat if the first coat is absorbed in less than an hour. Don't even think about another coat for 6 months (outside in Arizona) to a year.

Art

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

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