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Josh Ashman

Horsehide Shoulder Holster For A Little Sig

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This is my second horsehide shoulder holster and I was mostly happy with how it turned out. Functionally it should work well but visually my boneing work is subpar at best, I may have to give up trying.

Thanks for looking,

Josh

post-19070-0-68047400-1373299959_thumb.jpost-19070-0-79956400-1373299968_thumb.jpost-19070-0-39351800-1373299976_thumb.j

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Nice work.

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Never! Quit what the hell would G.S.P. say!. Very nice job!

This is my second horsehide shoulder holster and I was mostly happy with how it turned out. Functionally it should work well but visually my boneing work is subpar at best, I may have to give up trying.

Thanks for looking,

Josh

post-19070-0-68047400-1373299959_thumb.jpost-19070-0-79956400-1373299968_thumb.jpost-19070-0-39351800-1373299976_thumb.j

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Thanks guys! To clarify, I meant I may have to quit trying to bone holsters. I think I could basket stamp them with less heartache :cowboy:

Josh

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I know nothing about making shoulder holsters, but that's a fantastic looking rig!

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Looks like you've got those down... Great work Josh!... Where did you get your makers mark? Very clean stamp.

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Some folks like the look. I think your work is great.

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Great looking work. I also the grain of horse hide.

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I would imagine that the properties that everyone loves about horse hide would make it harder to bone too. Does it take water well? I would think it would not, but I've not tried it. IMO, CC holsters can do without some of the details and still be just fine. And in reality, a lot of those details are just for looks. Speaking of looks, I think it looks great.

You could always do away with the detail lines and just tell everyone you prefer the "clean look" without them.

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Thanks Jason, I've only built with horse a few times so I'm no expert but I think it is a little different from cow to work with. It does take water but it takes longer for it to penetrate, I may be doing my molding/boning a little too dry and I'm just as apt to mess up a cow holster as a horse one. My main issue (I think) is that I muddy up my lines by running over them too many times which makes for a sloppy appearance. Sometimes with a 1911 I do pretty well but with blockier guns not so much.

This is a close up what I don't like - post-19070-0-81307100-1373634788_thumb.j

This turned out pretty good but it's kinda a crap shoot for me - post-19070-0-34667700-1373634829_thumb.j

Thanks for looking and I appreciate your comments,

Josh

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Josh,

If you don't have a modeling spoon, pick one up. It has been a huge help for me. I got mine at Hobby Lobby. I lay out my lines with the spoon, except for the really straight ones. Then I go over the lines with my bone folder to expand them. But more importantly for fixing your problem areas, the spoon allows you to go over those mistakes and smooth them out. If my bone folder jumps out of the line, or like yours, it leaves extra lines doing a curved area. I can go back with the small backside of the spoon and clean up my mistakes. You can buff out some pretty nasty looking mistakes with it.

It's not about making something perfect, it's about figuring out how to fix your mistakes so they don't show.

This is the one I have.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/blade-tool-and-modeling-spoon-386516/

Springfield Leather carries a few more varieties.

http://springfieldleather.com/store/search.asp

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