Leather Corsets

[Matt S]

I'd be interested. Single seams should be strong enough, so long as they are chosen with care. Girth points in English of Aussie saddles are held on with single seams, and they're about the highest stress points.

[corsetfitzbakersfield]

I don't understand Matt..were you talking to me? I just don't understand what you are refrencing to.

[Matt S]

I don't understand Matt..were you talking to me? I just don't understand what you are refrencing to.

Sorry yes, I thought I'd quoted you but apparently not.

[corsetfitzbakersfield]

AHH..HHAAAAA..!! Matt was that an intended knee slapped or what? ..now,..I'm pretty sure that yurz fellow saddle makers aren't using ole regular coats n Clark polyester thread right?..I'm sure you too follow some kind of systematics when it comes to ways certain things are " typically " done in "your" trade right?..well in my trade which is a seamstress that specializes in corsetry, it is sort of a. ..."quality law".. if you will that seams are double if not triple stitched. As when we are working with..."can everyone say fabric?...f.a.b.r.I.c.." the stress point on the waist is so great thy ensuring a seam that is durable for the

"years" our customers are promised their corset will last...can only come from reinforcement of the seams..stitched down one side and flipped over back up the opposite side then flipped back over and back down again! this enterlocks each seam and backs up the stitch so that it can withstand the stress without breakage when over laced (which most people do)..

So, when I'm ready for a one on one course with a smartass saddleman from what was it..England, ill hit ya up there. .MATT. TAKE CARE

[corsetfitzbakersfield]

are you still interested??..

[Matt S]

AHH..HHAAAAA..!! Matt was that an intended knee slapped or what?

Ahhh no, if I'd been telling you off you'da certainly known about it :-p

..now,..I'm pretty sure that yurz fellow saddle makers aren't using ole regular coats n Clark polyester thread right?..I'm sure you too follow some kind of systematics when it comes to ways certain things are " typically " done in "your" trade right?..well in my trade which is a seamstress that specializes in corsetry, it is sort of a. ..."quality law".. if you will that seams are double if not triple stitched. As when we are working with..."can everyone say fabric?...f.a.b.r.I.c.." the stress point on the waist is so great thy ensuring a seam that is durable for the

"years" our customers are promised their corset will last...can only come from reinforcement of the seams..stitched down one side and flipped over back up the opposite side then flipped back over and back down again! this enterlocks each seam and backs up the stitch so that it can withstand the stress without breakage when over laced (which most people do)..

First I need to point out I'm no saddler, and I don't even portray one on TV. However I have been around horse tack a while, and learned to work leather from saddlers both in the flesh and on paper. I don't like shortcuts when it reduces quality and saddlers can't afford to take certain shortcuts when the lower quality will endanger a horse or person's life so I learned how they do certain things in the English saddlery tradition. Puts me at odds with some people but that's just the way I like it :D

The thing with leather is that it's obviously not woven. As I understand it fabric (did I say it right?) doesn't get weakened by stitching since the threads pass between the warp and weft (yarns?). However every time you put a hole through a piece of leather it weakens it. If the hole is big, it is weakened a lot. A small hole weakens just a little. So you see a seam will make a line of weakness like the perforations on a roll of paper towels. But if the line of stress is parallel to the seam, the line of stitching holes doesn't 'see' quite so much stress. That's why in saddlery you shouldn't ever come across a leather strap that is stitched straight across like this:

Now on something like a belt just to hold up a pair of trousers ("trow-sers" -- pants are what goes underneath) you'll probably get away with it and the risks are pretty low even if it does break. But on a gunbelt or a toolbelt or something else of high stress (like a piece of horse tack) it's not a good idea and certain tricks are employed to spread the stress over as wide an area as possible.

To get to my point, a single seam on the join of each panel of a leather corset could well be better than multiple. It's a balancing act between many factors, and probably more important than number of seams is the direction from which the stress comes and the area over which the stress is spread. Thinking about corsets (and trying not need a cold shower), I think that the main direction of stress for each panel will be horizontal with the seams vertical. This is not ideal but I can't think of any easy ways around it.

If you want to make a flat felled seam that would be much better than simply overlapping for both strength and appearance. If the bulk is excessive the flesh side of the leather can be shaved down at the seams without reducing strength too much.

My, I can waffle on can't I!

So, when I'm ready for a one on one course with a smartass saddleman from what was it..England, ill hit ya up there. .MATT. TAKE CARE

Smartass I may be, English I may be. At times I may even be rude (though in a devillishly delightful and charming manner). But if I could make saddles I would quit my dayjob tomorrow. Any time you are over to our green little rock I would be very happy for you to look me up so long as you don't mind the damp weather and very drinkable beer.

(Still very interested in this BTW.)

[electrathon]

pics attached

To start out with I think I like the third one.

[corsetfitzbakersfield]

( standing scratching my head, trikes to speak..gulp..gulp..exhale..) hmmm..you seem a bit like a black liquorice..bitter to the first lick, nasty to the first taste..but once aquired the taste..quite adictive.

I certainly misjudged your vast knowledge on the craft of manufacturing..fabric or leather..damn..I could used that encyclopedia years ago through my trial and error stages, may not have so many gray hairs today! what's bummer cause them suckers do t like to leave once the have planted their derrière deep into he root..(unless your a blonde like myself then the circumstance of the folicle by far out weighs the depth..)..

but never mind that...where were we..ah yes..the Buck naked trouser dropping seam stress...you have read your homework on the way material is weaved but I think you got overly excited to think about hitting g that "send" button before you turned to he page about" types "of fabrics in corsetry. generally most corsets are satin (well mine are anyway..unless they are custom ordered in another fabric) so I'm going to have to send ya off and do a prep work on your types of fabrics in this situation then come back here and tell me all about it..if you hear snoring..well..its just your horse very comfortable under a very soft cowhide bedspread..knock softly..

[corsetfitzbakersfield]

thank you very kindly for the invite of beer....but only if its warm!! that's the way I like it!

[corsetfitzbakersfield]

OK electrathone..ah yes that is a nice corset indeed..and pretty easy as well..it is a simplicity fashion historian pattern no.9769. this particular corset here is. vinyl with a lace overlay in the fro t and back with a two inch reduction.

were you going to get this pattern? I picked this one IP for. 99cents at Hancock..on a monday..when they have their sales..check your local store out. if not then how can I help you.

[rosiart]

For those interested in making corsets, the following are great resources.

http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/ This is a subscription site, but has many useful free articles, including how to draft your own pattern.

http://corsetmakers.livejournal.com/ Use the tags to search for specific topics.. there is a lot of info here on corset construction, patterns, different body types and materials from which to make corsets. It isn't as active as it used to be.

and on facebook Learn to make Corsets like a Pro this was started by Alexis Black and is currently one of the most active sites.

Hope these are helpful.

[electrathon]

I will track down the pattern and go from there. I plan on making this out of leather, not sure what kind yet or what I will line it with.

[biglew]

just saying... I have made lots of corsets in many materials ... just haven't tried leather yet

[electrathon]

just saying... I have made lots of corsets in many materials ... just haven't tried leather yet

Mmmm, just think how good a girl in a leather corset would smell and look!

[Tina]

You like leather guys? How about leather and chineese silk?

Just one I made a few years ago, it's laced both back and front, easier to to dress yourself (customer request).

[electrathon]

Tina, Awesome looking.

[Greystone]

Great work and nice blend of materials

,,, WO HOO,,

[Greystone]

I'm trying to get started on a mix of the white corset with over the bust top and not sure how I want to finish the bottom like the black or blue ,, any thoughts

[Samalan]

The lyf so short, the craftso long to lerne.

[rosiart]

You like leather guys? How about leather and chineese silk?

Just one I made a few years ago, it's laced both back and front, easier to to dress yourself (customer request).

Tina, this is really nicely done. No wrinkles and a great match of fabric and leather. Thanks for sharing.

[Tina]

Thank you all for looking and comments :-)

I just thought it would be fun looking at something with a materialmix that isn't common. I have made a few of them but unlucky me had a computercrash and I lost tooooo manny photos than I care to count...I even had to nick photos from my old website (= smaller) to get some back, not fun.

I've been following this post and would like to give some hinters from my rather long time as a maker of corsets.

To use multiple layers of fabric is OK, but what you use is more important then how many. One of them needs to be a fabric that don't give any movements at all. When I made corsets I used:

1 layer that you see...In the picture = leather and silk.

1 layer of coutil. I know, it's expensive but if you put down the work, make sure it comes out the best it can be.

2 layers of 100% cotton fabric. These layers is the closest to the body = nice to wear :-)

1 "layer" of reinforcement band (1" to 1 1/4" wide) around the waistline, this is most important the keep the waist shape. I usually sew this to the lining layers.

If you have any questions...Just ask here :-)

Edited July 29, 2013 by Tina

[Tina]

I'm trying to get started on a mix of the white corset with over the bust top and not sure how I want to finish the bottom like the black or blue ,, any thoughts

Think how it would be to wear the corset. The pointier and longer the bottom part is the harder it will be to do anything but standing.

If you like the wavy like the black, draw your own and for commfort I would make it a wee shorter in the mid front at least or...

Make sure the busk don't go all the way down (not beond the point of: top of the pelvic bone + 1/4 - 1/2 inch or so up).

[Lavendara]

Tina, I would eventually LOVE to be able to make something like that. It looks absolutely gorgeous.

[burlybuhda]

So I'm new to corsetry in general and I am making a custom one for my wife. If it goes well, I may continue to make them as special orders (always pays to have some extra money coming in) Though I am trying to figure out how to properly attach the side pieces together. Any suggestions? I am using an overlap seam to get a desired effect and 5-6 oz leather.

[burlybuhda]

Here is the pattern I am working with. SOme of the extraneous lines don't matter. Planning to overlap the pieces about a half inch.