Santo Report post Posted November 21, 2013 Amazing looking wallet! Very inspiring. You say you do screen printing in the portland area.........seizure palace? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather by LOU Report post Posted December 24, 2013 I help out at Rebel Cricket Screen Prints Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted December 24, 2013 Tony, just a little tip that works for me. The instructions I got when I bought my CB4500 was to hold the top thread when starting the stitch. I found that got me going ok, but: I did not like the first couple of stitches cause the bottom thread pulled up some and didn't give me the look I wanted so, what I do now is I hold both the top and bottom at the same time and start backwards for a couple of stitches then go forward and it gives me a nice clean start and like wise for the end, I go to the end and then back a couple of stitches. Hope that helps you get the results you want. By the way, sooner or later Wiz will chime in and the advice he gives on sewing machines and their use is as good as it gets. Merry Christmas! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramrod Report post Posted December 25, 2013 another late post to this thread, but i gotta say this is a vry nice job. i haven't gotten up the courage to make my own yet (and partly because all of my stuff is in storage) but these pics sure help to gt an idea as to how to do it. excellent pictures. that's how they should look! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather by LOU Report post Posted January 12, 2014 I have since attempted that wallet pattern several times without near the success. I think HCM hit the nail on the head. My pattern design is off. Pretty sure he's right because I have had different results each time i've attempted this wallet. Back to the drawing board and I'm bringing his notes. Thank you for the kind compliments on this wallet and the photography. I love how just creating a clean white background can create the focus on your work instead of busying the field. It really draws the eye to construction and detail. I have been working to include more models in my photography to show scale and application. that adds a lot to product shots too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HCM Report post Posted January 12, 2014 I see from your signature that you got a skiver. Did you use it on the new wallets that didn't turn out so well? i would think you'd be having better results now, not worse. What are you shooting your photos on? I shoot (obviously not the snapshots I posted here) on a Nikon D300s with 3 off camera flashes. White background can be very difficult to achieve proper exposure with. I do my best to get a 255,255,255 background, but I almost always end up having to make adjustments in post when the subject is placed directly on the background surface. The only way I have ever truly gotten a white background on the RAW image without overexposing the subject is to shoot on a clear glass or lexan surface a good 5-6 feet in front of the white background. I use 1 or 2 speedlites to properly expose the subject with another speedlite only on the background, overexposing it by a couple stops. This makes a perfect, blown out white background that looks almost perfect on the RAW image. Give that a try and I think you will be amazed at the results. You don't need to have strobes to do it, I've seen it done with continuous lighting too. Just make sure all your bulbs are matching to avoid white balance issues. If you want any tips on white background photography, I'd be glad to send you some links I've used as reference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather by LOU Report post Posted January 12, 2014 I did use my new skiver and that did improve every area... regarding the skiving. Trouble is my pattern. I don't have the cover and liner pieces sized properly to work together. They are just off enough that it has messed with me. I can't seem to end my bottom inside stitch in a consistent place when I roll the other side edge of the wallet. these pics are just phoned in but I think you can see where the bridge stitches and construction are not symmetrical... its bugging me. I think I also make assembly more difficult than it needs to be too. But I'm sure I'll stumble upon a process after a few more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HCM Report post Posted January 12, 2014 Anthony, You're pattern is different than mine, but you're so close to success. Look at this picture, it's just a quick mockup, I hope I got it right. The top is your pattern, bottom is my recommendation. Try changing it to look more like the bottom and you will see a better result. And when you stitch the little middle bit on the interior, don't bother with backtacks, just stitch it a few stitches beyond the fold on both sides and it will look like a continuous stitch on that piece than blends into the rest of the wallet, instead of something that you're struggling on. Once the face is folded over, the tacks will have no purpose on a structural level, and they just look ugly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather by LOU Report post Posted January 12, 2014 i think that makes a lot of sense! i'm excited to give that a try. I've had quite a few requests for this wallet and I haven't been happy with them. Thank you very much. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HCM Report post Posted January 12, 2014 No problem. And once you have the bridge lined up with the edge of the face, you should be able to see the start/stop points when you're stitching from the face. If you can't see where to start and stop clearly enough, just run the machine needle through the wallet from the inside to mark the points. Just make a hole in each position and when you flip it over to stitch, you'll have holes right at the points you want your stitch to start/stop. Good luck, let us know how it goes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites