Singer 111G156 - Timing Belt Replacement

[Constabulary]

Now its time for timing. But how to start?

As I said I had to replace the timing belt. I just put it on an tried make settings by reading the Manual but my technical English is not very good and the pictures in the manuals are too dark do not help me very much.

So I first tried to set the stitch length, that was the 1st thing that did not work. Maybe I misunderstood something. I pushed the left pin on the bed and turned to handwheel towards me. No movement at all, the only thing that happened was that the safety clutch poped out.

Okay, I knew there is a video on youtube of how to put it back in. I figured that my clutch has no slotted screw but instead it has a flat bolt. So I tried it on my own. This ended up in removing the clutch from the shaft. And I figured I can just pop the clutch back while putting a lever (screw driver) between the 2 pins and push it back in - worked well. I hope I did not damage anything doing it this way. However the V shaped metal tongue is back in the V shaped notch and there is no play, it fits tight in there!

So thats the point where I'am - the belt is still off and the clutch is set again.

At this point I think it would be the easiest way to time the machine. So I think when I but the needle bar and the feed dog in a certain positions and then but the belt back on it probably should work.

Good Idea or bad Idea? Anyway, I have no clue of what to start with so I really could use some help.

Edited August 27, 2013 by Constabulary

[CowboyBob]

When you put the new belt on the pulleys you need to make sure the take up lever is all the way to the top & then just to the left of the clutch there's a collar with an arrow that lines up with another arrow on a piece of tin,so you line up these 2 arrows & takeup @ the top & slide belt on & it should sew,except in your case you'll have to retime since you moved some things.

[Constabulary]

It now feeds well but yet does not catch the lower thread. Seems I have to move the hook towards the needle a little bit. Hook seems to be at the right position but not close enough to the needle.

[Constabulary]

IT'S ALIVE - IT'S ALIVE!!! HA HA!!!

Seems it was the little hint with the two arrows. I just timed the hook a little bit again and - it sews!

Yet, it only sews by turning the wheel by hand but it makes nice stitches and feeds well. Now it's time to oil it thoroughly.

But for some reason something moves up & down the reverse lever a little bit but that is probably because it needs oil at some spots.

Not sure if I´m done but I will report after oiling it.

For now THANK YOU SO MUCH Geneva, Wizcrafts, Gottaknow & CowboyBob but I may have some other questions later.

[Constabulary]

reverse lever movement solved - it just needed oil. Everything runs so smoooooooooth now. Can´t wait to sew with it....

[Constabulary]

One more thing...

When set to the longest stitch of 5 SPI (should be about 5mm stitch length) the machine produces 6 stitches per inch (about 4mm stitch length).

Is there a way to adjust the stitch length to that it makes 5mm stitches (5 SPI) at the chosen position?

See picture (2,54 cm = 1 Inch)

Edited August 28, 2013 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

Finally found it, it is mentioned in the manual at "To Adjust The Reversing Mechanism". Why there?

However, though I adjusted it I do not get full 5 SPI out of it when forward + reverse have the same stitch length.

I can even adjust it to a longer forward stitch but then the reverse stitches are shorter.

Is there something like "secret screw" that only knows the advanced Singer Mechanic?

Edited August 31, 2013 by Constabulary

[cdthayer]

Mine is not listed there - probaly a Made in Germany machine?

I'm working on getting an old Singer 111G156 limbered back up to sew too. I put a new timing belt on it after I got the rusted safety clutch freed up enough to operate. I've been fiddling with it to get oil soaked into dry joints, and adjusting things as I go. I'm getting 6 SPI and a lift of 3/8" so far, but I'm hoping to improve that.

I'm surprised that your machine has a "W" serial number. I thought that the "G" series were made in Karlsruhe, Germany, and that that factory had used "PA" through "PY" numbers. My serial number is PB157568, so since Singer took over the Haid-und-Neu factory in 1958, I'm guessing mine was built some time in 1959. From what I understand, they were already using "PC" numbers in 1960.

I'd heard that the "W" numbers came out of the old Wheeler & Wilson Bridgeport factory. I wonder if you have a Connecticut machine with a German tag on it?

CD in Oklahoma

[Constabulary]

I don´t know!

Maybe the housing of the early West German Singers were delivered from the US and later on they produced the housings in Germany.

I only noticed one part on the entire machine that is marked with SINGER GERMANY and that is the small curved metal part that holds the bobbin case in the hook. Everything else has no evidences of "Made in Germany". Most parts are marked with SIMANCO.

I oiled the machine over and over again until only clean oil drips out of it.

BTW - has some one an extra drip pan for the 111W / 111G? Mine had no pan.

[cdthayer]

I read through Eric's thread Rebirth Of A Singer 211G155 and caught the tip about feeling for the take-up lever to be all of the way up. Then I rechecked my timing marks on the bottom shaft. I was one tooth off, so now I'm starting over. Thanks a bunch Eric! There's also a lot of other good information in that thread that will help me immensely.

My machine has been tweaked a lot of times. Here's what I've found so far:

The timing belt was missing completely.

The safety clutch was mounted onto the lower shaft with neither set screw in the notch.

Does it matter which set screw is in the groove?

The needle bar is set too high. Only the bottom mark shows when down full stroke.

The existing needle in the machine had the top cut off to match the length of a 135x17.

The eye-to-top of the needle matched the 135x17, but the tip was longer.

The tension release pin is not cut or worn, but will not reach the tension release lever. It is barely even with the housing when the lever is completely up.

The hand presser bar lift has a 3/8" gap to travel before contacting the lift bracket.

The pinch screw on the bracket is wallowed out badly and needs replaced if I can find one.

The knee-lift linkage is missing beyond the push-up rod and rocker arm.

Both inside and outside presser feet have been broken and braised back together.

As you can see, I have my hands full with this one.

CD in Oklahoma