Members rdl123 Posted November 6, 2013 Members Report Posted November 6, 2013 I am just starting my first saddle project... Tree: Timberline Wade - 15.5" finished seat, 13" cantle, 1.5" dish, Horn 3" x 4.25" cap @ 1.25" tilt - Bars set-up for typical Canadian ranch horse... Leather - Herman Oak Hardware - Stainless Steel from Sheridan leather I have attached a pic of the tree - What I would like to know for starters: I am trying to achieve the look / feel of the saddles you see Buck Brannaman riding - Really like how his horns are set-up - Sloping top, lots of diameter. This tree - Seems like there is a lot of undercut under the front of the top cap, a little more than I hoped for...Would there be anything wrong with cutting and skiving a piece in that woudld wrap around the front face of the horn post only to build it out? Nailed and glued of course? Would this be a bad idea? Basically it would reduce the undercut by 1/4" or so... How much undercut will dissapear once I finish this - wrapped in leather and then wrapped in 'mulehide'? Also, have read that some don't finish their horn posts in leather - They just use donut cap and proceed to finish wiith the horn wrap? Any comments on this? I'm inclined to think I want my horn post finished in leather and then wrapped in mule hide... On a horn this size - Cap and wrap or donut & filler - How to finish post with donut & filler? Any advice and comments will be appreciated! Also, a bit of background - Fairly new to leather work - Have built several pairs of tooled chaps / chinks, built rear cinches etc. Have all of Al Atohlmans saddle making books as well as Harry Adams, However, going to be using Steve Brewers ground seat techniques as they seem like a better way to go... My goal is to build a plain, smooth out working saddle - Be nice to have it ready for branding season. Quote
Members GrampaJoel Posted November 6, 2013 Members Report Posted November 6, 2013 The undercut at the horn looks pretty normal, and I bet it will disappear pretty quickly once you start adding leather. The building is up to you. Sounds like you have an idea what you want it to look like. All leather seat, go for it! You have some good books to get building info from. And now, you are the di Vinci in the project. Start creating. Have fun. Remember, you will make a few mistakes. Everyone does. But the craftsman uses his mistakes to better himself with. Joel Quote
Members BondoBobCustomSaddles Posted November 6, 2013 Members Report Posted November 6, 2013 As for how much undercut will go away, and if you want to finish it or not, since the horn is usually the second thing you do in the building sequence (at least in mine) that if it isn't enough, or too much you can always do it over. Nothing lost, but: time. A simple price to pay for some good experience. Bob Quote
Members Goldshot Ron Posted November 6, 2013 Members Report Posted November 6, 2013 I agree with Bob about redoing the horn if you don't like it. I've recovered a horn three times on one saddle before I got it like I wanted it. When I first started working with leather, I didn't want to waste leather. So I told myself to live with my mistakes, and I'd correct them on the next saddle. It's still hard, but now I redo a lot of my projects until I'm satisfied. Look at the Ray Hunt Wades that Timberline makes. This may be the horn and style that you are looking for. This is a picture of a Ray Hunt Wade tree from Timberline. Best of luck on your first attempt. Ron Quote
Members rdl123 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Members Report Posted November 6, 2013 Thanks for all of the advice everyone! Really appreciate it - Sounds like my best bet is to experiment with the horn - Might take a couple shots to get the result I want. https://www.freckerssaddlery.com/the_buck_brannaman.php (this is what I want my finished horn to look like... Regards, rdl Quote
Members barbiesdude Posted November 6, 2013 Members Report Posted November 6, 2013 Can't give you any advice on the technical aspects of building out the horn since I will be starting my first saddle soon as well. However, I do ranch rope quite a little and can give you the advice to make sure the end product has a nice taper from wider at the top to narrower at the bottom. This shape really helps your dallies stack neat and allows you to slip rope easier when you need to. You probably already know this though. From the looks of your tree I would say by the time it's covered, it will have a good shape to it. Quote
Members rdl123 Posted November 10, 2013 Author Members Report Posted November 10, 2013 Thanks Barbiesdude: I'll make sure to keep the horn tapered. My current saddle actually has a fairly cylindrical shaped horn and I have had issues with the dallies getting jammed when ponying colts...Can make for some interesting times! Quote
Members tnawrot2 Posted November 11, 2013 Members Report Posted November 11, 2013 I just sent you a message. Quote
Members rdl123 Posted November 19, 2013 Author Members Report Posted November 19, 2013 I ended up building the face of the horn out a bit over the weekend, got a slope that I am happy with now - Also threw the gullet cover in. I'll try to get some pictures posted of this. The other thing I have decided to do is purchase Dale Harwoods saddle making DVD's - So hoping this will also help me / help prevent wasting skirting leather. Quote
griley4 Posted November 19, 2013 Report Posted November 19, 2013 Jeremiah Watt's video is the best I have seen......imho. Quote
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