First Saddle Project - Advice Appreciated

[rdl123]

I am just starting my first saddle project...

Tree: Timberline Wade - 15.5" finished seat, 13" cantle, 1.5" dish, Horn 3" x 4.25" cap @ 1.25" tilt - Bars set-up for typical Canadian ranch horse...

Leather - Herman Oak

Hardware - Stainless Steel from Sheridan leather

I have attached a pic of the tree - What I would like to know for starters: I am trying to achieve the look / feel of the saddles you see Buck Brannaman riding - Really like how his horns are set-up - Sloping top, lots of diameter. This tree - Seems like there is a lot of undercut under the front of the top cap, a little more than I hoped for...Would there be anything wrong with cutting and skiving a piece in that woudld wrap around the front face of the horn post only to build it out? Nailed and glued of course? Would this be a bad idea? Basically it would reduce the undercut by 1/4" or so...

How much undercut will dissapear once I finish this - wrapped in leather and then wrapped in 'mulehide'?

Also, have read that some don't finish their horn posts in leather - They just use donut cap and proceed to finish wiith the horn wrap? Any comments on this? I'm inclined to think I want my horn post finished in leather and then wrapped in mule hide...

On a horn this size - Cap and wrap or donut & filler - How to finish post with donut & filler?

Any advice and comments will be appreciated!

Also, a bit of background - Fairly new to leather work - Have built several pairs of tooled chaps / chinks, built rear cinches etc. Have all of Al Atohlmans saddle making books as well as Harry Adams, However, going to be using Steve Brewers ground seat techniques as they seem like a better way to go...

My goal is to build a plain, smooth out working saddle - Be nice to have it ready for branding season.

[GrampaJoel]

The undercut at the horn looks pretty normal, and I bet it will disappear pretty quickly once you start adding leather.

The building is up to you. Sounds like you have an idea what you want it to look like. All leather seat, go for it!

You have some good books to get building info from.

And now, you are the di Vinci in the project.

Start creating. Have fun.

Remember, you will make a few mistakes. Everyone does.

But the craftsman uses his mistakes to better himself with.

Joel

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

As for how much undercut will go away, and if you want to finish it or not, since the horn is usually the second thing you do in the building sequence (at least in mine) that if it isn't enough, or too much you can always do it over. Nothing lost, but: time. A simple price to pay for some good experience.

Bob

[Goldshot Ron]

I agree with Bob about redoing the horn if you don't like it. I've recovered a horn three times on one saddle before I got it like I wanted it. When I first started working with leather, I didn't want to waste leather. So I told myself to live with my mistakes, and I'd correct them on the next saddle. It's still hard, but now I redo a lot of my projects until I'm satisfied.

Look at the Ray Hunt Wades that Timberline makes. This may be the horn and style that you are looking for. This is a picture of a Ray Hunt Wade tree from Timberline.

Best of luck on your first attempt.

Ron

[rdl123]

Thanks for all of the advice everyone! Really appreciate it - Sounds like my best bet is to experiment with the horn - Might take a couple shots to get the result I want.

https://www.freckerssaddlery.com/the_buck_brannaman.php (this is what I want my finished horn to look like...

Regards,

rdl

[barbiesdude]

Can't give you any advice on the technical aspects of building out the horn since I will be starting my first saddle soon as well. However, I do ranch rope quite a little and can give you the advice to make sure the end product has a nice taper from wider at the top to narrower at the bottom. This shape really helps your dallies stack neat and allows you to slip rope easier when you need to. You probably already know this though. From the looks of your tree I would say by the time it's covered, it will have a good shape to it.

[rdl123]

Thanks Barbiesdude:

I'll make sure to keep the horn tapered. My current saddle actually has a fairly cylindrical shaped horn and I have had issues with the dallies getting jammed when ponying colts...Can make for some interesting times!

[tnawrot2]

I just sent you a message.

[rdl123]

I ended up building the face of the horn out a bit over the weekend, got a slope that I am happy with now - Also threw the gullet cover in. I'll try to get some pictures posted of this.

The other thing I have decided to do is purchase Dale Harwoods saddle making DVD's - So hoping this will also help me / help prevent wasting skirting leather.

[griley4]

Jeremiah Watt's video is the best I have seen......imho.

[harrington]

I agree that Jeremiah Watt's video is very good, probably better for a first time saddle maker than Dale Harwood's. I have both sets, I'm on my 6th saddle and still refer to both all the time.

[rdl123]

The seller has both Harwood's & Jeremiah's sets - I am going to ask if I can swap the order as they are the same price - Will see what they say. Just placed order this am so maybe there is a small chance they can.

[rdl123]

Here are pics of horn and gullet:

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Well you are on your way!! Keep us posted.

Bob

[rdl123]

So this weekend I put in most of my all leather ground seat - Following Steve Brewers tutorial...Still have my final cover piece to put in. However, wanted to wait for everything to dry up so I could actually sit in it and make sure I was happy with the shape before I put my last piece in...Last night it was dry enough and so far I am pretty happy with the feel - Although I'm sure you never really know until you can put a couple long days in the finished saddle. here are some pics:

Your comments and critiques will be appreciated as I really am just feeling my way on this project. Steve told me he nails his ground seat in before he puts the cover piece in so that is my plan as there are no nails in here yet. I realise I don't have a good profile picture up yet...So will try to take one tonight. I want a 'balanced ride' seat - Want to sit straight up with heels, hip and shoulder all lined up - Don't want the armchair style seat position. Next task once ground seat is wrapped up is to get my skirt pattern drawn up and my rigging pattern drawn so I can make sure all of that flows and looks like it belongs. If anyone has advice on that I sure would like to hear it. Plan is for round skirts, maybe even slightly butterfly style. 7/8th flat plate rigging.

[rdl123]

Here is a profile picture...

[rdl123]

No feedback yet? I was hoping the experienced saddle makers would give some feedback on ground seat shape. I am happy with criticism - If any fatal flaws I'd rather tear out mistakes and do it right. Critiques appreciated.

[rdl123]

here is the start of Cheyenne roll...

[rktaylor]

Thanks for the update. I hope to finish my first saddle this weekend. Then I am going for a ride.

[rdl123]

Hello RK:

That's what i am looking forward to - actually riding this thing...

Be interested to hear what style of saddle you built/time it took etc.

rdl

[rktaylor]

Once I am finished, I plan to post some pictures and a recap of the project (time, cost, mistakes, what I learned, etc).

[rktaylor]

rdl123

Here are some photos of my saddle. It is based off Dusty Johnson's patterns I have his package (book, video and patterns) and Volumes I and II of Al Stohlman's books. I started with that and a general lack of common sense. I learned more than I care to type right now, but I am done and it is really comfortable to ride. It is a Bowman tree from Batie's Custom Tree in Welch, OK. The leather is all Hermann Oak. There are several mistakes, but none were 'deal breakers' for me. Plus, now that I know what they are, I can avoid them on #2. I have a friend who will buy the materials, so I get another shot at it. Plus I want to build one for my wife. She would probably rather have furniture, but what the hell.

Stay warm. Artic air is moving our way tonight, but you would probably think its spring weather.

Randy

[rktaylor]

You asked about time. Its hard to measure because I have a full time job and family already. I got my tree around the second week of September and finished last week. However, there were three weeks straight that I didn't touch it. Plus I stood around scratching my head a lot. I have about $1k invested in materials and another grand in labor if I got paid 50 cents an hour.

[rdl123]

Randy - That is great - Really looks good for a first time - If I can get mine to look that decent off the hop I will be pumped!

I am surprised you were able to build it that quick in spare time. I have a full time job and when I do have spare time I always seem to put going out and riding ahead of working on this saddle...However I really do want to have er done for spring.

Anyhow - Your saddle looks great and is very motivating for me! Did you hand sew skirts to fleece or did you have access to sewing machine? Do you have any advice on getting the drop plate rigging true from side to side? That is what I am about to tackle next.

Thanks,

Ron L

[Goldshot Ron]

Randy,

Your saddle looks good. A thousand in materials is pretty average any more. I, like you, make about fifty cents an hour. But, it is a thrill to finish a saddle and sit in it for the first time on your horse. Have you worked with leather prior to attempting this first saddle? I think your stamped border looked good.

Now, you need to purchase the Jeremiah Watt dvd and get a whole different perspective on saddle making.

Ron