How To Slow It Down...

[kwalk20]

On ‎5‎/‎26‎/‎2016 at 10:26 AM, SARK9 said:

Its one possible solution to the "no tilt" problem that arises when using these stand-alone reducers, and for that *one* aspect of the conversion, its a bolt-on-and-done as well.  Its still geared for the DIY crowd, and as they say, some assembly required. Photos available on request.

Sark9, would you happen to have those pictures of your installation? My pulley's been sitting on the table and we've finally started the process, but I want to be sure we are doing it right. Thanks in advance!

[brmax]

I have been taking a interest and right now looking at 5 tops the three bolt mounting has the single bolt towards the right and closest to drive belt slot.

This particular single bolt hole is factory drilled on 3 tops and I myself drilled on two other tops here with its "center" ranging 2-1/8 to 2-5/8 directly in line with its installed machines pulley centerline.

My reason for posting this interest is these motors are at their extent as the bolt dia. is at the end of slot on all 4 servos 1 clutch mount.

I had also noticed these motor pulleys are not designed to move or adjust as sliding on the shaft like some stuff.

So I may need a mount / reducer that has ability for its machine drive pulley center to be within my  tops slot and machine pulley "range".

This may be a custom need I am looking into but it seems relevant, and to access the wealth of knowledge for a note takin ; )

Have a good day everyone!

Floyd

Edited June 2, 2016 by brmax

[kwalk20]

Got her done!!!! Thanks to the tips on here we finally got it completed! And Sark9 for that detailed explanation and drawing with pics which we referred to many times. Now to find another belt that fits exactly right, but otherwise, good stuff.

[mikesc]

In a pinch ( like when you really need to get something done and you have no belt ) you can make a belt from a length of shock cord ( bungee cord to the "right side of the pond" ) pass it around the two pulleys that you need to connect, ( hold the end onto the groove on the biggest pulley ) just like as if it were the missing belt , mark on the cord where to "cut to correct length"..where the cord meets up with the end again on the biggest pulley, take it off the pulleys, now actually cut the shock cord 20% shorter than the length that you marked..

Butt the ends together, glue the frayed strands down smooth and sew ( by hand , with a curved needle if you have one ) the Butted ends together so that the join is a smooth as possible..make it solid and strong use more stitches than you would think, and make the stitches "bite "into the cord and it's outer layer at least 10mm from each side of the Butt join..try pulling the join apart ( don't go crazy pulling it, or it will rip apart for sure, but "test" it , put it snug over your two wrists and then move them apart by another 20% ) ..It holds? Good:)

Now refit it around your two pulleys in place of the missing belt ( you'll have to stretch it a bit, like 20% ) it should now sit down in the pulley grooves a bit and grip )..This will keep you going until a real belt arrives in the mail, you'll probably feel a slight "bump" as the join goes around each time, but you'll be sewing..I ran my 211 like this for a week while I waited for the real belt to arrive, "no machines were harmed in the making of this hack"..Don't stretch much more than 20%, or you may be straining the bearings on the speed reducer or the motor drive pulley, can also be used as a temp substitution way of making the drive belt from the reducer to the machine head, or from a motor drive pulley to a machine head..

It probably isn't safe to run a Shock cord belt as fast as a real belt, so don't..But we are talking about speed reducers here, so you won't be running it fast anyway..
( I did this, I take no responsibility for anything that anyone else might do as a result of reading this post , if it breaks and tears your leg off, don't come running to me as my Mum used to say )

Shock cord / bungee cord..like stretchy duct / gaffer tape :)

Edited June 4, 2016 by mikesc

[kwalk20]

Thank you Mikesc, I didn't think it was safe to make a hack. I was afraid that anything that wasn't supposed to be there would damage the motor, but thanks for giving me an alternative when in a punch! I appreciate any and all tips,  trips and hacks. 

[oldfarmboy]

Probably asked a thousand times already. How do these servo setups work to drive the machine? Do they still use a clutch like the old mechanical system? Do you set the speed and then engage the drive with a clutch? Or do they work like regular domestic sewing machines that have a foot control to vary speed from very slow to fast? I've just latched on to a Pfaff 145 and it's a beast to control. Also found a Reliable blind hemmer months ago and it used the same clutch system. From zero to full bore. Saved the table. Rest of it is in the junk pile for recycle.

Can't live very long with this setup. Beyond me how all that engineering could go into these machines and they come up with a drive like this???

Thanks

 

[JLSleather]

I'm always just dumbfounded when I see all the posts about how slow I can sew with my [ insert model here ] sewing machine.  

There is no value in being slower.  Obviously, you shouldn't do anything faster than you are able to do safely.  And I've heard of people learning to use sewing machines with a tennis ball under the foot pedal -- or like I did, just adjust the foot pedal rod so that if I accidentally pushed it down, there was a top limit that I could control.

But down the road, seriously... how well do you think that would work at a job interview?

• Q:  What would you say is one of your strengths?
• A:  I can sew a belt R E A L L Y slow! 

  While it's not politically correct to throw you out, you're probably not on the call-back list

So why, then, would anyone think it's desirable on a project?  Same scenario...

• Q: "hey Jeff, you use HO grade A leather, design your own, and stitch (usually) with a piece of cobra, just like that other guy.. so WHY should I buy yours instead of his?"  
• A:  Cuz I sew it R E A L L Y slow.  Like, have a snak between stitches.

Again...   

I've even seen videos made.. like ... LOOK how slow I can go ...!

Where's that video Wiz did a while back.. was it guitar straps or rifle slings?  Zip, zip, done.  Zip, zip, done.

 

[Northmount]

21 minutes ago, oldfarmboy said:

Probably asked a thousand times already. How do these servo setups work to drive the machine? Do they still use a clutch like the old mechanical system? Do you set the speed and then engage the drive with a clutch? Or do they work like regular domestic sewing machines that have a foot control to vary speed from very slow to fast? I've just latched on to a Pfaff 145 and it's a beast to control. Also found a Reliable blind hemmer months ago and it used the same clutch system. From zero to full bore. Saved the table. Rest of it is in the junk pile for recycle.

Can't live very long with this setup. Beyond me how all that engineering could go into these machines and they come up with a drive like this???

Thanks

 

Servo motors are variable speed control.  No clutch.  You can also slow your machine down by installing a pulley speed reducer set and by decreasing the size of your motor pulley, or increasing the size of your machine pulley.  Sewing leather with a hard temper and / or a thick stack of leather requires a lot of torque,  So even with a servo motor, you may still need to use a pulley speed reducer set.  Torque in general varies inversely with motor speed.  You can do a search here and find lots of threads and posts about servo motors.

Tom

[Hockeymender]

Guess some people here don't have to do any precision sewing in the work they do. I for one need a very slow machine to get the stitching correct on the gloves, skates and other hockey gear I sew. To go "zip zip, done" would create an unsightly and unusable piece of equipment (and hockey players are very fussy about the fit and feel). In my better than twenty years of doing this I have learned it is actually quicker to sew at a snails pace, because I don't have to go back and redo things that sewing fast caused me to do incorrectly and thus I lose time going back to make corrections. 

I'm sure that for many applications sewing fast works well and is the preferred and recommended method, but not in every case. 

[JLSleather]

Try to relax - I slow down at sharp turns, too, .. and likely most of us do.  And I go quite slow when backstitching, since I'm determined to get at least some work out of this piece of cobra.   and it's not so very reliable about stitching back in teh same holes (crap shoot... it may or may not from one time to the next).

But on a belt that runs straight for 45" per side, or a holster that has a "turn" with an 8" radius.... Well, ya know what.. second thought.. I should just stay out of alot of stuff around here.  No worries