What's Your Process For Dyeing?

[keithpip]

I'm about to dye my second holster project. This is a flap holster and have decided to use Fiebing's on the recommendation of my local Tandy Leather store. For my first holster I went with a Tandy product (Eco-something). It wasn't bad but since this flap holster will see hard use in the field Fiebing's was recommended since it's an oil based dye and would penetrate the leather more than the Eco-whatever. My question is this: I've been reading various posts here and it seems that everyone has there own process when it comes to dyeing. Some holster makers are using applications of oil (neatsfoot oil?) at some point in their process. I was simply going to use a swab and apply two coats of the Fiebing's according to the directions on the container. I just want the finished holster to look good and the finish stand up to hunting in the field. Can you tell me what products you use and your process please. Thanks in advance.

Keith

[camano ridge]

I would reccomend practice dying on some scrap if you have some. Many times the dye right out of the bottle will be very dark. You can cut it with alcahol until you get the shade you want. I have a hard time getting a good even dye job with a swab. THis is my personal way and it works for me, others mialage may vary. I use a sponge. I prefer the closed cell kind and cut them into about 2" squares. dab the sponge in your dye mix then lightly folded paper towel to distribute the dye more evenly and soak up an excess. I oil after dying. This helps to put nutrient back into the leather that were lost during the dying process.

Again I reccomend practicing before you do it on your project to make sure the process works for you. Below are a few pictures of items I have dyed using my method. Again there are many methods including dip dye, spray guns etc.

[cleanview]

Here is my method and I would welcome comments if there is something wrong with it.

My most used colors are angelus brandy and coffer 10% dye 90% alcohol. I use a dobber and put it on thick, over and over and It turns out good, This process came out of frustration with colors coming out too dark and trying to dobb sparingly never came out good. I airbush accents but dont like the thin coat from an airbrush for the main color.

[Jim]

I have dyed everything from pokey watch holders to rifle scabbards and can tell you that sheep shearling is the only way to go. Cut a 3 inch diameter circle of the shearling and it makes the perfect dye applicator. No pretreating required with the oil dye.

After the dye sets, use Fiebing's Resolene to finish with a pampered sponge. You'll have a holster that will take whipping and keep on whooping.

Oh, I forgot to mention that once the dye pad is cut out, use scissors to trim the wool to just under a half of an inch. If it's too long it will dribble dye everywhere.

Jim

Edited October 31, 2014 by Jim

[Josh Ashman]

Keith,

My 2 cents is that the dye just gives you a color, it sounds to me like what you are really going to be interested in is the final finish you put on after that. I dye pretty much like Jim describes above although I also cut the dye with alcohol as others noted. Play around to get the color you like and remember you can always go darker. Once the dye is dry, generally around 12 hours although humidity and temperature will cause that to vary put a coat of neatsfoot oil on it. If you want a rigid concealed carry type of holster be sparing with the oil, if you want a supple holster with some flex you can go heavier. You can also skip the dye and just use oil, it will darken the leather and time in the sun will darken it even more. After that soaks in (oil doesn't dry, it soaks in and you can overdo it so several light coats are better) top it off with an acrylic finish (Resolene, Mop and Glo or anything other type you like), I use Mop and Glo and I cut it 50/50 with water or you can also "grease" it with Sno Seal, Aussie Wax, Saddle Butter or any other similar finish.

There isn't a "right" or "wrong" way to go about it, just the way you like best. For me, I like my field gear to be oiled fairly heavily (usually 3 good coats) then greased and set out in the sun for a few hours on a hot afternoon. I like my every day concealed carry holsters and mag pouches to be fairly rigid, they get dyed, a very light wipe with oil then the 50/50 Mop and Glo.

Good luck, Josh

[doubleh]

I had a good friend that was a bootmaker and turned out as fine a boot as you'll ever put on. He and his wife were a team. She did the fancy stitched and inlaid tops and also did any dying that was needed including refinishing. She used an airbrush and Fiebing dyes. Sadly they are both gone to that big bootshop in the sky now.

I hardly ever dye anything anymore but Feibing oil dye and a piece of shearling is my method when I do.

[Dwight]

For holsters, . . . 50 / 50 mix of Feibings pro oil dye, . . . and Feibings thinner.

Pour it all into a 8 x 14 x 2 inch cake pan, . . . dip the holster, . . . and roll it around in the liquid until it is all covered.

Pull it out, . . . hang it up to dry, . . .

Finish with a 50 / 50 Resolene and water mix, . . . applied with a cheap bristle brush.

Works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Eaglestroker]

I pick up the phone, call Wickett & Craig, and tell them I need a side in X oz holstered/plated in Y color. It makes life so good.

When I had dyed all I used were Feibings Pro cut with denatured alcohol in a dipping method. After a while you get used to the colors it 'throws' but there is a pretty good learning curve. I like dipping because it gives you the best dye penetration.

[keithpip]

I want to thank you for all your good advice. I'll post pics when the project is completed. Thanks again!

Keith