Gusset Woes

[sharkeyfinn]

hi everyone, ive been making these bags for the ladies of my family

the thing is, i cant seem to get the length of the gusset right, it started out too long, then i got it right, cut the same length for the next bag and it was an inch too short, is there a calculation to get them right? thanks ;-)

[shadowryder]

Dunno if its the "right" way to do things but what i do when making anything with a gusset is I will measure the outer edge of the front panel which should give the length needed and if flaps are required I then add that length to it.

[MonicaJacobson]

The ladies in your family are lucky - those are very nice. I always have trouble with gusset measuring. I think various people have come up with methods that are supposed to be sure and certain, but if I stretch the leather by accident when I'm punching holes, I make it uneven again, regardless of the original measurement. First, I count all the holes in the front and back. I have started leaving the gusset long, I pre-punch the holes, and use a square to make sure it stays perfectly even from front to back, and the hole count matches the front and back side. It seems rather unreasonable and over-complicated; other people probably have a much more sensible way of going about it.

[JLSleather]

If the bags are the same style, then it's not a "calculation" problem. More likely, you have ..

• measured from the inside of the square, but read the outside scale, or ;
• misaligned the edge a bit, so that it 'takes the long way' and requires a bit more material, or;
• read the tape wrong (you meant 1/2" under 35, but marked 1/2" OVER 35.

These of course are off the wall guesses from clear in left field, cuz we all know I would NEVER make a mistake like these

[Wild Bill46]

Sharkey -------------------

Not to be a copy cat, but, Actually simular to Monica's description.

I was first taught to count my holes and align too,

And as Shadowryder suggests not sure if its correct for everyone, but it continues to work for me !

By the way, your bag design is quite nice looking. and I really like your tooling and coloring ! --------- Wild Bill46

[Olle P]

I have this very same problem, trying to get the right gusset length.

• Measure the outer circumference:
  - Each time I measure I get a different result.
  - Requires the front part to be cut before starting with the gusset design.
• Count the number of holes:
  - Can work for large diameter shapes, like the bags above.
  - Won't work as well for tighter radii since either the gusset then will need to stretch quite a bit or (better) you need to place the stitching holes further apart at the corners.
  - Requires the front part to be almost finished before starting with the gusset. Not that good for drawing patterns before touching the leather.
• Add to this the implications of wanting a gusset that's more complex than a straight rectangle.
  - Tapered at the ends and/or with pockets and such mounted onto it.

[neilyeag]

Agree, the tooling, coloring and exectution is really top notch.

[sharkeyfinn]

hi everyone thanks for the comments, i posted this a while ago, and have a piece of advice to "give "now :-) i was told to start stitching from the middle and work up to the top,then go back to the middle and restart a new stitch and work up the opposite side,however,the one i use the most,is to just measure round the outside edge and add and inch or so and then trim it to length afterwards.  :-) 

[Northmount]

3 hours ago, sharkeyfinn said:

hi everyone thanks for the comments, i posted this a while ago, and have a piece of advice to "give "now :-) i was told to start stitching from the middle and work up to the top,then go back to the middle and restart a new stitch and work up the opposite side,however,the one i use the most,is to just measure round the outside edge and add and inch or so and then trim it to length afterwards.  :-) 

Starting from the middle and working both directions reduces the "warp factor" too.  Instead of sewing or lacing in both directions, you can mark the centres, use contact cement, and cement together aligning the centre marks.  Then you can sew from one side, all the way around.  Can even trim before sewing so your corners match up, assuming you cut a little oversize.  Really helps your assembly process when you use a sewing machine.

Tom

[MADMAX22]

Using the same thickness for the gussets is also a challenge when using thicker leathers. Using thinner leather for the gussets allows the front and back panels to lay flatter at the edges and is much easier to mold around the panels. 

One thing Ive done (not necessarily right) is when fitting the gusset use some clamps to hold it in place which will keep it lined up like if its stitched. Then mark and trim and go to town with assembling. 

[Olle P]

5 hours ago, MADMAX22 said:

Using the same thickness for the gussets is also a challenge when using thicker leathers.

Skiving the edges down a bit will reduce that challenge.