Constabulary Report post Posted December 23, 2014 Found a 1905 made 29K1 boat anchor today Soaked it in oil for a coupe of hours and figured this thing really turns surprisingly smooth. Generally I would not buy such an extremely old patcher but for the price of three 24 packs of beer I could not resist and the extra needle holder + two shuttles that came with it looked good (one Singer, one Adler). These parts alone are worth the money I think. Seems the shuttle carrier is bent but thats no big deal. I will polish the needle plate and see how it is feeding and how long the stitches are. If not good I´ll rip it apart for parts or so. What I have learned so far is that this one has no stitch length indicator and the foot lifts when you push down the loot lift lever... So I have some work when Christmas becomes boring. To bee continued.... Merry Christmas everyone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kidbeey Report post Posted December 23, 2014 That was a good find. If the machine is no good, the stand looks to be okay and seems very similar to the one on my 29K58. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted December 23, 2014 C, Good find. I know you will check all the running gears. The back and front covers are no problem to replace. Keep us posted. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 23, 2014 All parts are present. I just took them off for oiling. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cdthayer Report post Posted December 24, 2014 Looks like a good project to me.CD in Oklahoma Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 25, 2014 Ripped everything apart and checked the wear of the parts. I´m really surprised that the revolving head and the feeding motion ring "thing" still fit very tight and the rollers all look nice. I really have expected much more wear on this "boat anchor" considering how it looked from the outside. I get ~ 7 - 6.5 SPI out of it before cleaning - not very good but could be worst. The bell crank lever thing is quite worn but seems it is the same as in my 29K71 so I will order one. The inside of the motion ring thing does not look worn so I will keep the old one for now and will see how it performs with the new bell crank lever. Next step - parts cleaning - new paint job - order some parts... Merry Christmas Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kidbeey Report post Posted December 25, 2014 Constabulary, I guess you have seen this article, where the guy put brass shimming to compensate for wear:- http://www.woodworkforums.com/video/Singer%2029K13.doc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evo160K Report post Posted December 26, 2014 Kidbeey, Thanks a lot for posting that link. I think it's a terrific article. It sure clears up a great deal of the mystery about the two machines I'm restoring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 26, 2014 @Kidbee Yes, I know it and it is quite impressive what he did but the bell crank lever is just 13.50 GBP at College Sewing and It really seems to be the same as in the 29K71 so for that money I don`t start trial and error with sheet brass. I decided to rip the 29K71 head apart later today and take a closer look at the lever and compare it with the one from 29K1. I think that could be helpful for other folks who want to restore a 29K in the future. The parts # are different but you never know.... Later... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RavenAus Report post Posted December 26, 2014 (edited) Do you have a link for College Sewing, Constabulary? I wouldn't mind a replacement lever for my 29k13 if they have a suitable one. *edit* My Google-Fu worked today! https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82167-FEED-MOTION-BELL-CRANK-LEVER-SINGER-29K Edited December 26, 2014 by RavenAus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 26, 2014 (edited) @ Raven Yes - thats the one! I just compared the parts and they are quite identical as far as I can tell. The only significant difference is that the feeding motion ring "thing" oft he 29K1 has curved angles where the bar meets the ring and the 29K71 is perfect 90° angled. Till try to install the two 29K1 parts in my 29K71 ans will see what is happening. Edited December 26, 2014 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 26, 2014 Most parts are clean now just some screw still need some TLC and I have not taken the gearbox apart. @ Raven College Sewing is closed until January 2nd - just for the case you will place an order. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RavenAus Report post Posted December 27, 2014 How much do you actually have to disassemble to get the bell crank lever out? I'd prefer not to have to take the head off if I can avoid it - actually, I'd prefer not to dismantle mine at all lol but the stitch length does need fixing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cascabel Report post Posted December 27, 2014 Is this "Bell Crank Lever" the same part that causes loss of stitch length in a 29-4 when worn ? Judging by the photos of the worn one, and the photo of the new one in the College Sewing site, I believe I could repair mine fairly easily if it is similar. I could probably easily build it back up with steel using TIG welding, and re-shape if it is similar. I have not yet disassembled my machine, so I don't know if it is made the same or not. Or is the 29-4 a completely different can of worms ? Mine is still quite usable as is for now, but I may make it a future project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) @ Raven I have never tried to remove anything from a mounted head. I´m not sure but I think you cannot remove the bell crank lever w/o taking off the head and the needle bar. The head is just mounted with 4 screws and you have to remove the pin the needle bar is mounted to the long skeleton lever with - thats it. And a thorough cleaning and oiling may improve the performance. To remove the bell crank lever from the head you have to take off just 4 small screws. 2 that mounts the revolving handle to the revolving bushing and 2 small hinge screws that hold the bell crank lever on the revolving lever. But I honestly think it is the better idea to take the head off and even disassemble, clean and oil it. It looks like a lot of parts but it really is not a big task I´d say. You of course have to be a bit patients but its worth it. The 29K is such a simple machine, there is not much you can do wrong! @ cascabel I´m sure it is the same - the difference between the 29K1 and 29K4 is that the 29K4 is for "waxed thread" so I think it just has the oil cup mounted and it has a side wheel. Welding the bell crank lever will do the job I think - question is how much material you need but you`ll figure it out. Edited December 27, 2014 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cascabel Report post Posted December 27, 2014 @ cascabel I´m sure it is the same - the difference between the 29K1 and 29K4 is that the 29K4 is for "waxed thread" so I think it just has the oil cup mounted and it has a side wheel. Welding the bell crank lever will do the job I think - question is how much material you need but you`ll figure it out. I don't know when I will get time to play around with the project, but I will post pics when I do. I think I can judge size and shape fairly well from the photo of the new one, and then do a bit of careful hand fitting and polishing. I can always add a bit more metal if I need to. My equipment allows me to add very small amounts of metal at a time, without causing destruction of the part. I'm used to repairing non-available gun and machinery parts in this fashion. Is this the main thing that causes loss of stitch length ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 27, 2014 @cascabel It´s nice to have these opportunities! As far as I know the bell crank lever and the motion ring have an effect on the stitch length. Maybe the cam and the roller on the motion ring bar have an effect as well but I´m not sure. Just finished painting some parts and started reassembling. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) in an other thread I found a nice idea for derusting - electrolysis! Don´t want to make a lot of words - here is the thread the idea came from: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=60600#entry391099 And there are a lot of videos on youtube I had top and bottom housing in the electrolysis bath for about 20hrs. The rust is gone and as a side effect it even has removed the paint or it rather crinkled the paint and I was able to remove it with a wire brush w/o much effort. The bottom parts of the housing still is in the electrolysis bath. Only problem (well not really a problem) is that is immediately starts to build some surface rust but thats no big issue and quite normal. Some pictures: Edited December 28, 2014 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted December 29, 2014 Constabulary, I notice that the foot lift lever is the old style on yours? Let me know how it works. I would have thought the foot lift lever would look like one on. a 29-4. Most all the parts on a 29K1 will fit the 29K4, for your info. I think your machine has the newer bobbin winder on it as well. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 29, 2014 Thats what I noticed when I disassembled it - the foot lift lever is lifting the foot when you push down the lever! Just the other way around as on other machines. It is sewing but how the hell can you time the machine? It has no eccentric. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 29, 2014 I just tried the bell crank lever from my 29K71 in the 29K1 and it DOES NOT work - yet! The BCL fits technically but it has to be modified otherwise it is rubbing on the revolving handle and does not feed properly. So I will try to install more 29K71 parts and see what exactly is going on... To be continued..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted December 29, 2014 okay.... I now have installed the revolving handle, the motion ring and the bell crank lever of my 29K71 in the 29K1. All 3 parts fit w/o problem - at least in my case - not sure if this will work on all 29K short arm machines. I now get 6SPI max. out of it WHEN I have almost zero tension on the blade spring but that means that I have not much foot lift and I can sew maybe 3-4mm thick. When I put more tension on the blade spring I have a higher foot lift but the stitches are shorter. So it could be that just a new + modified bell crank lever can do the job. I will order one and will modify it. So in case it works - fine - if not then this project is dead, I don´t want to invest too much money in it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted January 9, 2015 some pictures of the bottom housing. When I polished the name plate I found a different nomenclature on the backside of the tag - pretty interesting (but not overwhelming). I just have ordered the bell crank lever for the 29K71 and will see what I can do with it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted January 11, 2015 I use electrolysis all of the time as it is the cheapest and least labor intensive method to clean parts and even loosen rusted in screws. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
makitmama Report post Posted January 11, 2015 wish I had seen this thread earlier- I am a passionate restorer of vintage home sewing machines, and have ~50. Plus my two consews. If you need parts and have trouble finding them, or if you are looking for specialist repair information, then a great resource is the Vintage Sewing Machine forum on QuiltingBoard. http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/%C2'> ......some of the threads have thousands of posts. these sorts of machines are straightforward, and addictive to repair. I love the close tolerances, and making a quilt on a treadle that is 100+ years old. I am sure that sooner or later I will run across a vintage industrial machine besides my Willcox and Gibbs(1890 chain stitch sewer) and drag it home. when you get this running, I want to see a video! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
