DarkGoku Posted February 10, 2015 Report Posted February 10, 2015 I just received my Cobra class 4:) never owned or even used a sewing machine before. its a challenge, but what I would like to know is, how do I make using this easier? I hand stitch everything, so when I received my tax return, I bought the cobra. no telling when an opportunity would allow me another chance, so I jumped. is there any advice on practices or even places that instruct on this matter:) I have tons of crap, and soon that will run out at the rate I'm going. I only ask, because I really don't want to learn poor habits, instead id like advice of some good habits to build on. Thank you:) Quote Proverbs 90:17 17 And let the beauty of the Lord our God be upon us, And establish the work of our hands for us; Yes, establish the work of our hands. NKJ Singer 15/31, Cobra 4, Tacsew T111, and Walmart $80 Singer thingy
Members Greystone Posted February 11, 2015 Members Report Posted February 11, 2015 Ck Al Bane videos, a lot of scrap till you think you have the feel and do some simple things be ready to adjust and redo a couple times then practice again, don't be too frustrated do some practice gussets and any other things that you did by hand just like hand work you will have some thing you throw in a box and never look at again I love my cobra 4 and I'm very happy with it except when I screw up the machine is solid and most of my fu's are my error Quote www.facebook.com/pages/Greystone-Leather www.etsy.com/shop/GREYSTONELEATHER
Members JREESER1 Posted February 11, 2015 Members Report Posted February 11, 2015 Memorize the videos, both Cobra Steve's and the two Cobra 4 videos from Al Bane on you-tube. Practice, practice, practice.Tension, tension, tension.......Get used to getting the knot centered in the middle of the piece. Look for wads or bird nests on the reverse side of the stich. This means making certain you have threaded the machine and bobbin correctly. When you practice go from thin, to thick, then back to thin, making sure the top thread loop is centered. Every time you get ready to sew an item, do practice seams on a piece of the same thickness and layers before you actually start to stich the project. GO SLOW, at first. I have never had the confidence to start sewing at any medium or fast setting of the servo. You will get the hang of beginning the process the same way every session. Be sure to get a variety of polyester threads, from 138, 207 to 277, and needles from 21, 23 to 25. Keep the machine well lubed, but not saturated. Listen for any change in sounds or any binding, it will not heal itself or get better. Finally hold onto the top and bobbin threads for at least the first 2 or 3 stiches. This will insure your top thread is centered at the very beginning of your seam. You will continually run into new issues and problems that will end when you get into a routine and comfortable the more you use your machine. The more you use your creativity, and practice, the more you will impress yourself. Continue to use these forums for answers to any issues, or problems and to brag about how much you have learned and improved. jr Quote
Members Wishful Posted February 11, 2015 Members Report Posted February 11, 2015 Watch the Arthur porter videos on you tube and sailrite.com has a lot of good videos in their video library too. Quote
DarkGoku Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Posted February 11, 2015 Thank you so much for the advice:) I stayed up last night just sewing and I'm actually getting used to the petals and the speed. I have a hard time using reverse, but I found a great video showing to take a square piece and just run along the borders, and at every turn back up 3 stitches and then forward. I've been practicing that last night:D You guys have given me a lot of great advice and I pray that I'll be able to pay it forward some day! Quote Proverbs 90:17 17 And let the beauty of the Lord our God be upon us, And establish the work of our hands for us; Yes, establish the work of our hands. NKJ Singer 15/31, Cobra 4, Tacsew T111, and Walmart $80 Singer thingy
DarkGoku Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Posted February 11, 2015 Is there a way to achieve a strong stitch like a saddle stitch with this machine? A way to sew and still maintain a quality strength as you get with hand stitching? I heard a sewing machine can't give a quality stitch. Is this true? Or technique? Quote Proverbs 90:17 17 And let the beauty of the Lord our God be upon us, And establish the work of our hands for us; Yes, establish the work of our hands. NKJ Singer 15/31, Cobra 4, Tacsew T111, and Walmart $80 Singer thingy
Members horseplay Posted February 11, 2015 Members Report Posted February 11, 2015 Yep, I second everything Jr said. It's all about practice. Keep in mind it's a machine made for heavy leathers. Very lightweight leathers don't work well through it. I got one a couple years ago and love, love, love it! I did grow up sewing so my learning curve of the machine was minor. And I will say I prefer my big Cobra Calss 4 to any normal fabric machine now. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted February 11, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) On 2/11/2015 at 3:18 PM, DarkGoku said: Is there a way to achieve a strong stitch like a saddle stitch with this machine? A way to sew and still maintain a quality strength as you get with hand stitching? I heard a sewing machine can't give a quality stitch. Is this true? Or technique? For years, folks around leather wurkin' campfires have been goin' on about the need for a saddle stitch. Not to take anything from that -- it works great, simple to learn, and looks nice. 50 years (ish) ago, there was a book published about hand sewing leather. That book said that with a lockstitch, when the thread breaks the seam can unravel. And people have been parroting that ever since (you know the routine - having no knowledge won't keep people from talking). But the actual strength is in the leather and the thread. And a guy with an awl and harness needles can botch a stitch job as well as the guy with a machine Stab an awl at the wrong angle, or too close together, ... not good. You'll find there's a vast range of threads and needles, many of them will work with that machine. Not to bore you to no end, but keep in mind that a 24 needle (for example) that is not "A" needle .. that's a size, but you can get size 24 needles for your machine that result in a very different stitch. One buries deeper than the next. One leaves a very straight stitch line, where the next one gives an angled/offset stitch, etc. This could go on.. but seriously, machines stitch parachute harness, just for an idea of strength. But, test it yourself. Take two narrow strips. Leave a couple inches at the end NOT stitched, to get a grip on. Stitch the edges like a belt with your machine. Trim the end threads out of your way. Now --- grab those ends you left for grip, and pull it apart... Better yet. Take that same piece, with the edges stitched, and CUT the thread somewhere in the middle of the seam. Not the leather, just cut the thread. Now, pull or tug or twist the project, and let us know what you had to do to get that seam to start coming out ... Edited February 11, 2015 by JLSleather Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted February 11, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted February 11, 2015 A machine CAN and often DOES give a quality stitch. It won't look just like a saddle stitch, but it can get very close. As far as strength...the tensile strength of the thread is pretty high, and you're not likely to break it. If you prefer the angled stitching, you can get needles that will do that. What you're going through is a little buyer's remorse. Sit down and make a double layer belt, and sew it. 10 minutes later, when you're NOT still sewing the belt, you'll start realizing that you made a good purchasing decision because: You bought a good machine, from a reputable dealer that's going to support you and the machine long after the sale. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Matt T Posted February 11, 2015 Report Posted February 11, 2015 A machine cannot do a saddle stitch, but I don't know where you heard that a sewing machine can't give a quality stitch. There are pluses and minuses to each, but a well done machine stitch should work great for most circumstances. If you want to, you can always hand stitch high stress areas like handles. The downsides to the sewing machine that I'm aware of are that you can't really use certain thread such as waxed linen, and IF the thread breaks, it will be easier to unravel more stitches than a saddle stitch. The downside to hand stitching is that it takes forever. On 2/11/2015 at 3:18 PM, DarkGoku said: Is there a way to achieve a strong stitch like a saddle stitch with this machine? A way to sew and still maintain a quality strength as you get with hand stitching? I heard a sewing machine can't give a quality stitch. Is this true?Or technique? Quote Leathercraft supplies
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