Moderator Wizcrafts Posted November 12, 2015 Moderator Report Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) The missing part is the bobbin winder tension assembly. I just bought one on eBay for $10.00. Edited November 12, 2015 by Wizcrafts Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Moderator Art Posted November 12, 2015 Moderator Report Posted November 12, 2015 You can buy the whole contraption for $8 or $9 here. Might as well get some bobbins and a bobbin case or two if needed. Art Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members dikman Posted November 12, 2015 Members Report Posted November 12, 2015 Art, I didn't mean to imply that Ed "invented" the stuff. You are quite right in that it was originally a Frankford Arsenal product, but apparently the original recipe was difficult to reproduce. Ed came up with his concoction which is generally acknowledged as being a reasonable (modern) approximation of the original formulation. No, this would be called "Art's Green", 'cos you developed the variant . Enough of guns (for now), back to sewing machines....... Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members MG513 Posted November 12, 2015 Members Report Posted November 12, 2015 Cool thanks everybody! I think im gonna order off of ebay so I can ask for next day shipping lol. Thanks Quote
Members MG513 Posted November 12, 2015 Members Report Posted November 12, 2015 MG, this is based on my removing/replacing 3 clutch motors. Basic tools - a couple of spanners, because you don't know the size of the nuts you can either take a set of spanners or a couple of adjustable wrenches, a medium to biggish one for the nuts holding the motor on and a smaller one for the bolts on the pedal-motor linkage. A couple of screwdrivers to remove the switch box. It will be held on with either slotted or Philips head screws (use long shank if you can, just in case). Pair of pliers to remove any cable clips. Procedure - unplug power cord (!) and remove switch box. Remove any clips holding the power cable to the table. Disconnect pedal linkage. Remove drive belt. Loosen the three nuts holding the motor on and let the motor hang down on the bolts. While supporting the motor remove the single nut at the front then slide the motor out from the remaining two bolts. Done. As for the oil question (I love oil questions!!!!) at the risk of starting a flaming war if you've got 3-in-1 oil handy use that. Much is written about oils, and much of what is written is irrelevant (and oft-times rubbish). Basically, all you really want is a thinnish oil. Auto Trans Fluid is actually quite good as a thin oil (it was originally developed as a replacement for Sperm Whale oil, which is considered by many to be one of the better lubricating oils - but obviously you can't get it any more). Just don't get yourself into a knot over oils as most of them aren't anything special (regardless of what the manufacturer might tell you - MSDS is your friend ). The look of success. Now to get the servo on... I'm tired lol Quote
Members MG513 Posted November 13, 2015 Members Report Posted November 13, 2015 You can buy the whole contraption for $8 or $9 here. Might as well get some bobbins and a bobbin case or two if needed. Art The missing part is the bobbin winder tension assembly. I just bought one on eBay for $10.00.Bought the bobbin winder off ebay! I got the servo on, but it didn't come with a new belt! I don't know if that's my fault for not asking for it or what, I thought it came with it. Can I get a 2in belt from any in stores like vacuum shops so I don't have to order online and wait??Also, check this pic out. Is it just me or is the current bobbin wonder on here back wards?? All photos on google have the wheel toward the front of the machine, where mine clearly doesn't... I mean does it matter? Thanks!! Quote
Moderator Art Posted November 13, 2015 Moderator Report Posted November 13, 2015 I guess you could put it on that way, however the thread comes off the thread stand tree and then goes to the bobbin winder tension assembly, and if backwards like that it might interfere with the balance wheel and belt, then again, it might not. I think I like it the 'normal' way Art Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members dikman Posted November 13, 2015 Members Report Posted November 13, 2015 Art is right, it will work ok like that but it's probably better to have the thread coming in at the rear (I'd prefer to keep the thread away from the handwheel). I doubt if too many servos would come with belts, mainly because you don't know what size belt you'll need until it's installed. I ran a piece of rope around the pulleys and tied it off with cable ties where it overlapped. Armed with this I went to autoparts stores until I found the right size. I also used the same trick when I needed a very small belt for a speed reducer setup. Figuring carparts stores were unlikely to have anything that small, I went to an industrial sewing machine shop. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members MG513 Posted November 13, 2015 Members Report Posted November 13, 2015 Art is right, it will work ok like that but it's probably better to have the thread coming in at the rear (I'd prefer to keep the thread away from the handwheel). I doubt if too many servos would come with belts, mainly because you don't know what size belt you'll need until it's installed. I ran a piece of rope around the pulleys and tied it off with cable ties where it overlapped. Armed with this I went to autoparts stores until I found the right size. I also used the same trick when I needed a very small belt for a speed reducer setup. Figuring carparts stores were unlikely to have anything that small, I went to an industrial sewing machine shop. The missing part is the bobbin winder tension assembly. I just bought one on eBay for $10.00. Ok so just so im clear, when I get the new bobbin winder in I should install like in the picture? I'm amusing the wheel needs to line up to the belt or else what would make it "wind" right? And I can't seem to get that flipping cover off to try and attempt to get the old belt wrapped around to see if it will even fit. I undid the screw but that piece that kinda covers the belt next to the hand wheel I can't get off, if u can't get it off how are u suppose to get a belt on it?! Since we have the same machine and the sane servo, isn't it fair to say I could take your advice in what size belt to get?? I clearly don't know what I'm doing as is so your suggestions don't hurt even if they don't work for me lol. Quote
Members MG513 Posted November 13, 2015 Members Report Posted November 13, 2015 Wiz I couldn't add this photo on the last reply, but I think I figured out the lever you were talking about. You said keep it straight but mine is no where near straight, not sure if it's obvious enough from this angle. I don't have anymore rod to try and straighten it out with and I like the position of the pedal... What could I do to make this straight? Or would I have to just move the pedal over to straighten the rod? Thx everyone Quote
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