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Posted

I use the weldwood. I find that if you rough the leather up a little before using it: a light sanding to remove any surface glaze, that it works better. I also only let it get tacky, not dry completely. Once I put the surfaces together, I tap the joint with a mallet. I find that without the tapping, it does not stick as well.

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Posted

I'm using Tandy's Eco-Weld. It comes out like white glue and seems to really bond well. I've even used it to glue edges together in a butt joint and it held while sewing them together. I usually let it sit about 20 minutes or so ( I usually forget about it while I do something else)

Every day you learn something is a good day. If you don't learn something every day, was it worth waking up for?

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Posted (edited)

The rules for Weldwood are simple:

Put in on thinly, . . . let it dry to the point that there are no sticky places at all on what you are doing.

Rough up any hair side parts, . . . and don't be gentle. It will not be seen once the glue it put on and glued together, . . . rough it up good.

I have never found any reason to clamp anything I've done with it, . . . been using it for over 50 years. Press the two pieces together using the flat palms of your hands, . . . and whatever upper body weight you can bear down on it, . . . then leave it for several hours.

And YES, . . . acetone will thin down Weldwood, . . . I had an order for 3 belts not long ago, . . . and my can was near the bottom, . . . kinda thickened. I added a couple ounces of Acetone, . . . stirred for 5 minutes, . . . back in business. All three belts were put together with no problem at all.

Another YES, . . . you can pull two pieces of leather apart that have been properly bonded with Weldwood, . . . but if you take a good look at what really happened, . . . you will find that the glue did not give way, . . . the leather fibers separated, . . . allowing the two pieces to separate. The only exception to this rule is when you use it on the hair side and don't properly scuff up the hair side surface.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

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If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted (edited)

Is the Weldwood good for joining 2 pieces of leather that will be flexing a good bit and is ONLY going to be held together with the glue? This is my first piece and I'd like my first piece to be something that even though it may not be the best looking piece, will be around a while. I'm sentimental like that. lol

Wanted to add that the post above mine was SUPER informative and I appreciate the detail very much. Details are awesome when you are learning. :)

Edited by ThaKaptin
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Posted

relying on glue on is not usually the best idea. I think most of us use glue only to help things together until we finish assembly with sewing or rivets

Every day you learn something is a good day. If you don't learn something every day, was it worth waking up for?

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Posted

splitrail,

I had a similar experience lately here in South Texas with the Barge contact cement. It has been working great, and then recently in the heat and humidity, it seemed to falter. I was able to separate the two pieces, where I would not have been able to recently. I thought maybe it had to do with the age of the can, so I opened a new can, it had the same problem. In fact, when I was sanding the edges, I was able to pull the cement out from between the layers after they had been hammered together, like a rubber band. I reapplied a different glue to bond the pieces together before finishing. It was clear that the cement had not bonded to the leather fibers at all, since it came out with no fibers attached. This was after letting the cement set for about 30 minutes to be slightly tacky to dry to the touch prior to putting the pieces together. I am really inclined to believe with this experience that heat and humidity had something to do with it, but I don't see the chemistry that supports my experience.

YinTx

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Posted

YinTx

Being a Canadian, I am personally trying to get used to thisTexas heat and humidity... on top of the adhesive issues. haahha

I have been working with the Dap for a couple of days now and it's applying very nicely. Much smoother, not Rubber Bandish at all. I am currently stitching a project that was glued and then the final test will be the burnish.

My tiger thread arrived yesterday, it's sweet to work with.

Maybe storing the can in A/C will help?

And thanks for taking the time to respond and for the photos you post, I love looking at everyone's work.

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Posted

Halitech is right. glue is meant to hold until you finish by sewing or some type of lacing. Burnishing leather that has just been glued will heat up the glue an make it soft. As far as the strongest glue, it is made( by Mule hide ) and sold at your local ABC roofing supply store, it is called black splice adhesive. once you put the two pieces of leather together they will not come apart

Posted (edited)

How about using rubber cement that has been thinned to a brush able consistency, applying to both pieces and letting dry before pressing together?

Edited by splinters
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Posted

Thanks for replying. The only problem is that there isnt really gonna be a place on the piece where there is gonna be room for stitching or rivets. I can extend it a little bit and MAKE room but its not going to look NEARLY as good. I thought about doing that and using some kind of decorative chicago screw but if I can get away with not doing it it will look a lot more true to the time and place that its supposed to be emulating.

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