JLSleather Report post Posted June 1, 2018 Well, I DID make that one - when I asked if I "did" this one, I just meant I didn't think I had already posted the pics This fella specifically asked for the thumb strap (I personally don't care for 'em, but his call). And he asked for "floral tooling" on the front, and showed me a picture of a holster he found in a search that had that "design" outside the stitching (which, by the way, is just a "pear shader" tool bopped along sideways- takes about 2 mins to go all the way around). And he asked for solid brown monochrome - I mixed dyes for a pretty good bit before lighting on that shade. Must have worked out, he left a pretty glowing review. Personally, I don't put much attention to reviews, though--- the more GLOWING, the more I'm calling BULL. YOu see some of those reviews about folks that go ON and ON and ON.. ' it's the most bestest wonderfullest great thingie i ever dun seen i will sure buy all my things from this person and so will my grandchildren... blahblah" And some of them show work that is basically.. you know .. poo Anyway, the floral was just "something that fits a Glock 27" and doesn't get "borrowed" from page 18 of Stohl man's "how to make holsters" book .. you've probably seen that one before, eh? This other pic shows the detail of the border stamping, including teh number of the CRAFTOOL stamps used to make it. These are fairly old tools - I don't know if they are still available on the shelves. Click pic to enlarge .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted June 1, 2018 34 minutes ago, koreric75 said: trying to think of a way to make the impressions of the presser foot less apparent after stitching, so far I've been relying on trying to press them down when tapping the stitch lines. Every mark you don't put in the leather is one you don't have to take out. Hey- that's good stuff, I'm gonna use that sometime! Lemme say that again -- EVERY MARK YOU DON'T PUT IN THE LEATHER IS ONE YOU DON'T HAVE TO TAKE OUT. Got a piece of scrap leather, fairly thin? I found a small piece of 3/4 oz - about inch wide and 6" long, put a straight cut on one side (you could get all 'fancy', but you really just need one side straight). Stick it under the presser foot, and sew. No marks in the leather. None. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted June 1, 2018 Oh, I did put a pic from teh buyer with his Glock in it .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bullmoosepaddles Report post Posted June 1, 2018 @JLSleatherThank you kindly for sharing your pattern making mojo with the rest of us. It will be awhile but the Misses has tasked me with making her boy child a holster for his 1911 for Christmas. I figure 4 or 5 screw ups down the road you guys will get a picture. That is iffin I can figure out how to resize it. Thank you Sir. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bullmoosepaddles Report post Posted June 2, 2018 @JLSleather A machine for thick leather is in my near future I hope. Please explain the straight edged leather trick. My mind does not want to wrap around it in its simplicity, I am sorry to say. Unless you are gluing/taping it to the bottom of the presser foot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted June 2, 2018 (edited) Piece o' scrap, 4-6" long. This is about 4 oz - not critical but I wouldn't use skirting leather. Couple pieces strap leather .. much like I would be making a belt. Again, just scrap - this time about 8 oz each. Stick 'em back to back, as if making a belt. Following in a minute... I actually wet the leather to make the result a bit more obvious. Bottom shows marks left by outside presser foot without the pad. Top shows stitching with "pad" under the presser foot (but not under needle or center foot). You can clearly see the DENT left by the center foot above teh dark stitching. Ordinarily, I wouldn't let this happen, but this is to illustrate the difference between where the pad is and where it isn't. Really just a matter of psi ... spread the pressure of the foot out over larger area, less marks. If the leather isn't wet, there will be NO TRACE of a mark at all. Edited June 2, 2018 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted June 2, 2018 Maybe it helps to see the direction? footpad.mp4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
koreric75 Report post Posted June 2, 2018 2 hours ago, JLSleather said: Maybe it helps to see the direction? footpad.mp4 awesome, thanks! I thought about something like this but kept getting hung up on trying to get the presser foot impressions out as well...those really aren't a problem after stitching and tapping, it's the outside/inside line of the walking foot toe that really leaves a glaring blemish. Now to see how many practice runs it'll take for me to try it on a piece, and how many pieces become scrap pieces after sewing them to 'em...lol. I sew pretty slow anyway except on long straight runs like belts... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted June 2, 2018 Yup - still makes the mark, but the mark is in the SCRAP piece With just a little practice, you can get where the scrap doesn't move with the work, so you can run clean down a belt without stopping. Just a footnote - when making a double row of stitchin', I use the left foot shown here for the outside row, then switch to the right foot for the inside row. Spaced about 1/8" apart, the right foot "tamps" down teh row of stitchin' made in the first pass (comes out the machine already "tapped down"). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
koreric75 Report post Posted June 2, 2018 16 minutes ago, JLSleather said: Yup - still makes the mark, but the mark is in the SCRAP piece With just a little practice, you can get where the scrap doesn't move with the work, so you can run clean down a belt without stopping. Just a footnote - when making a double row of stitchin', I use the left foot shown here for the outside row, then switch to the right foot for the inside row. Spaced about 1/8" apart, the right foot "tamps" down teh row of stitchin' made in the first pass (comes out the machine already "tapped down"). Dang-it, my head's going to explode with all this knowledge pouring in...lol, but i ain't complaining...I have really wanted to try a double stitch, saw a feller made a saweet looking holster with W/C a few days ago...can't remember the name, but the double stitching on that really popped! and with your technique i think it would be a good reason to practice both...I may be incognito for a few days...lol. I just made a shoulder holster/harness today and haven't made a holster for my full size yet... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted June 3, 2018 I never double stitch a holster. Aint needed at all, and the more holes ya put in sumthin', the weaker it is. Some a@@ will be along in a minute to swear that aint true, but ... consider a diving board. You feel safe walking out on the end, that's what it's made for. Now drill holes across the board, a couple feet from the end, and THEN walk out and stand there. Not so fun now, eh? BUT some holes (double row) running DOWN the board along the edges (like a fella might see on the edges of a belt) don't significantly damage the board in the direction of the downward force. Still fine to walk on out. I think Stohlman said it like "don't stitch across a strap" or something like that, right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bullmoosepaddles Report post Posted June 4, 2018 @JLSleather Thank you Sir. I have a great tendency to over complicate things. That is so simple I just could not wrap my mind around it. Thank you for all your time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted June 7, 2018 On 6/4/2018 at 9:51 AM, bullmoosepaddles said: @JLSleather Thank you Sir. I have a great tendency to over complicate things. That is so simple I just could not wrap my mind around it. Thank you for all your time. Welcome - glad I could help. MUCH of leather work is quite easy ... don't believe them "fancy' folks who spend their time trying to tell you they are somehow "special" and doing something you can't do. Folks with a physical limitation is valid -- arthritis, limited mobility, etc - but the rest of us can just have at 'er Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted August 7, 2018 (edited) 154,731 FREE pattern downloads, causing what my site host calls "performance issues" This of course is just the holster patterns, not including the other info available. The current "download winner" .. most popular AGAIN --- GLOCK 19 pancake style holster pattern (7666 downloads). ALL of these designed, edited and uploaded on ** my own time on my own tools -- no employer billed and paying for time spent on my stuff. Dad always said 'pull your own weight'... ** DISCLAIMER: NO employers were harmed in the making of these patterns or the site which contains them. Edited August 7, 2018 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toe2short Report post Posted August 10, 2018 I am looking for a pancake holster that I can convert to fit my pin pointer for metal detecting.Can someone help me? Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpha2 Report post Posted August 10, 2018 Toe2short, download JLS holster making instructions, then just pretend your pin pointer is a handgun. The process is exactly the same. Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 8, 2018 New download, which is really a new old stuff download. 1911 DOUBLE MAG carrier, just a slight revision from the single, one most you boys dun likely already dun. Now, lemme say I don't so much care for these due to the amount of belt space they live on. Still, the price is good (the download is free) ... http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/holster-patterns-diy/ In the list, or maybe faster go on the right side, click on 'magazine pouches" above the oak leaves ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sofaspud Report post Posted October 9, 2018 I truly appreciate the free paterns you have provided. I have used two or thtre of them an d have been VERY happy with my results. BIG THANK YOU! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 9, 2018 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hildebrand Report post Posted October 9, 2018 Thanks again for the patterns. It’s really nice to have one that you know will fit to help you when you try to draw one on your own. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 9, 2018 8 hours ago, Hildebrand said: It’s really nice to have one that you know will fit to help you when you try to draw one on your own. You're welcome, and thank you for pointing out the purpose of those downloads. Whole point is to "teach a guy to fish", if that means anything. Lots of folks have taken those ideas and gone on to make some of their own very nice designs. And besides, sometimes it's nice to bang out one of these simple little projects without re-inventing the wheel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 9, 2018 This is a "tip" from a while back, maybe worth refreshing. If you print the pattern, cut on the outside of the line, then the HOLE makes a great pattern for cutting off the hide. Lets you move it around and SEE the leather you're getting. The part you cut out - set it off to the side for marking stitch lines 'n' such. Making more than one or two? Print your pattern on 100 pound card stock. Most printers will run it just fine, and the pattern will last through quite a few uses. Spend 50¢ to save printing it again and again. Not as efficient as a clicker die, but it takes up far less room. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpha2 Report post Posted October 9, 2018 Excellent suggestion. I've been using the card stock for templates for some time now, works great! Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 13, 2018 (edited) the center division on that double mag pouch makes it easier to "draw' a mag, but not an accident ... the distance between is 'just' wide enough to use a tension adjusting screw + washer instead of stitching, but 'just' wide enough as not to increase the already considerable width of those things Just put your tension screw (or 2?) between the center stitch lines INSTEAD OF the stitch lines ... http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/1911_DBL_Mag.pdf Edited October 13, 2018 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted November 28, 2018 Apparently need to upload some more new toys to play with in the pattern section. Downloads slowed a bit past month, but still broke 169,000+. Still looking for the mold gun for the Sig 1911 Compact ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
