MG513 Report post Posted June 14, 2015 Hello guys, my first post here! I am a complete novice to the leatherwork/sewing field and I am looking for some advice here. I would greatly like to get into the reconstruction of Nike's/Jordans especially, completely redoing the upper of the shoe with premium materials such as python, lamb/pig skin and eventually leather. I have been doing a TON of research but when it comes down to finding a machine Google just isnt good enough, i need help from a real person with some experience. (PLEASE VIEW WHAT IM TRYING TO DO HERE: https://instagram.com/JBFcustoms OR www.jbfcustoms) I am looking for a starter machine to do this stuff with. Through constant research I have found that one of the top reconstruction artist linked above uses both a flat bed and a post bed with a roller foot. I personally cannot afford 1 machine really, let alone 2, so I am looking for something that is good enough to get me through my trial and error stage and help me make some profit to purchase a better machine! I have looked up several diff kinds of machines... Post, flat, teflon, cylinder, walking etc etc, but its all like a foreign language to me. I would like my first machine to be able to handle at least 3,4 oz of leather as well as the python and pig/lamb skin material. So far the cheapest post bed Ive found is a Yamata 810 at about $600. I have heard that some machines can come with attachments to make in into a flat, which would be great since that post has that 7" stand, which would make it difficult to sew the material together before actually putting it on the shoe... Can somebody lead me in the right direction?! Im located in Ohio... THANK YOU!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted June 14, 2015 Just from your post, you seem very inexperienced with sewing machines. Industrial machines, while less complicated than their home.electronic brethren, are built for speed and are usually quite mechanical (those with buttons, tend to control positioning motors and solenoid operated trimmers). However, Industrial machines are their own beast, and expect (if not demand) a tech be around to keep them going. This is not beyond the realm of the average garment pro, but even they are really not capable of fixing real problems. True industrial machines like the Yamata (Feiyue) 610, are designed to have a tech around from birth to death. Sometimes they come out of the box with either broken parts, or so badly setup that you have to go back and set them up from scratch. Sometimes parts are broken or an engineering enhancement may have been applied at the factory that just isn't right. Remember, if they can make it cheaper, they will, and if they can pass some of the labor on to the customer, that makes them more competitive. But hey, some come out of the box ready to run. So, I can't really recommend that a newbie buy a machine direct. In addition, leather sewing machines for general use run slow. They use speed reducers to give them more power at lower speeds. They also use servo motors. Servo motors make custom leatherwork a lot more precise and controllable than the old clutch motors (factories still use them because they are cheap and fast). I would recommend you call some of the machine dealers listed at the top of the page, and ask about the machine you are looking at. They are honest and will give you a good answer. The post machine is used to put the parts of the shoe together. They also use a lot of adhesives. The adhesives are very effective and will hold the shoe together by themselves, but the stitching may help in construction and gives a quality or higher price look to the shoe. Outsoles are all overlap and adhesive, and as far from bespoke shoemaking as as you can get. Everything is designed for efficiency in construction. Sometimes this makes working on already manufactured shoes a labor intensive process. One buildup sole for a $20 ($40 for the pair) shoe is $60. The price is the same for a $120 pair. You really need to determine if you need the post machine, because it is uncomfortable to do flat sewing on, even with a custom tabletop. You need to deconstruct a pair of shoes like the ones you intend to work on to see how they are put together. You will be surprised that most if not all of the sewing can be done on a flatbed or with glue. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted June 14, 2015 Hi Art and thanks so much for replying! Yes as I stated from the beginning I am a complete novice, never sewed anything in my life. Ive been interested in this type of stuff since I was 12 (now 23) and I have an opportunity to learn this craft from a person who does this specific kind of work this coming July. Right now Im just trying to do as much of my own footwork as possible. Maybe having just a flat would be good enough, as you said, alot of the reattachment to soles are actually done by glue. There are only a few Nike, such as Jordan 1s or Nike dunks that have sidewall stitching in addition to glue, and im guessing I could restitch the sidewall with an awl?? You also brought up not buying direct, how else would I buy? I thought buying direct was good because that means you get to see (in most cases) what your getting before you purchase, how do you suggest that I do buy?? Also, is there a certain adhesive you would recommend for this kind of work? And up above I only see the one link for machines, "Nick-O"...Can you link to some others as well or where I need to go to find a list of them on this site? Thank you very much!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted June 15, 2015 Nick-O Cobra Cowboy Techsew Find out about shoes and what it takes to bond them at Renia USA There are a few different glues used in the bespoke shoemaking discipline, however, shoe repair can be done with just a few. I have used Master All Purpose for years but have switched over to Master Max-Bond which is just Renia Colle de Cologne, Renia Ortec also works, a little different but not much. You might be interested in some of the Primers and Cross-Linkers too. If all else fails, there is Super Glue, but it is expensive with the amount of it you need for shoes. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted June 15, 2015 Thanks art! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) I use Renia all the time, best glue ever. I use contact in the green can. Do not rate their glue by their website. Glue awsome, website poor. Also should add, I think you want a post machine. And Art is spot on, there is a large learning curve when it comes to sewing. It looks easy, when a skilled sewer is demonstrating. Edited June 15, 2015 by electrathon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted June 15, 2015 Thx so much electrathon... I will check that glue out!! Also, I think I want a post as well. But I'm thinking I could get by with a flat walking foot until I can get a post as an addition. I think I'm gonna look for a used Juki ddl 8700 I believe is what it's called... It's $700 new and that's just above my range, so if I can find an assembled in th high 5's or 6's I can afford it!! Next, do you guys know a website where I can find some shoe lasts?? Thank u all so much. I'm aware of the learning curve, and a fast learner. I'm serious about learning this stuff, I just want as much advice from ppl who've been there done that as possible, before I start shelling out hundreds of dollars! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) MG515 - before you start buying a sewing machine better read this pinned thread first - It will help you a lot. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 Edited June 15, 2015 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted June 15, 2015 Thanks a lot!! I actually read that before I even became a member lol... That is how I found this site... Very informative, but still a lot to take in at once, which is why I'm asking some slightly more specific questions here!! I actually just found where and how to get shoe lasts, now my next question is does anyone know where I can buy polyurethane foam that's used in the collar and tongues of most sneakers? Thanks!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rito Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Where where you able to purchase your shoe lasts? Where where you able to purchase your shoe lasts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted October 22, 2015 Where where you able to purchase your shoe lasts? Where where you able to purchase your shoe lasts? So far ive only bought 1 set and i got them from a shoe cobbler Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted July 1, 2016 Ready to find a post bed now. I have a flat bed consew 206 to go along with it. Many suggestions?? I need a machine that parts can be sourced for easily as I am 4 hours away from the nearest tech. Not opposed to vintage, long as they have decent clearing distance, are a roller foot, and get at least 10 spi. Thx yal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XavierLamar Report post Posted June 22, 2017 Have you reconstructed your first shoe by now? If so could you give me some guidance? I have a singer and I'm ready to get started learning step by step Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted July 6, 2017 On June 21, 2017 at 10:58 PM, XavierLamar said: Have you reconstructed your first shoe by now? If so could you give me some guidance? I have a singer and I'm ready to get started learning step by step Ive made a few. You just need to carefully take the shoes apart, study the components and put them back together again. And dont cover every single thing with python. Thats how you learn! Have fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XavierLamar Report post Posted July 21, 2017 Word.. Good looks.. Any helpful resources for lasts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted July 21, 2017 9 hours ago, XavierLamar said: Word.. Good looks.. Any helpful resources for lasts? Brooklyn shoe space sells sneaker last. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
