Singer 111W155 Arm Shaft Bushing Will Not Come Out

[tammythefactory]

I have the original manual and a variety of military manuals. I've read previous forum posts on here and looked for videos. I've taken out / loosened all screws involved and I removed the pully. This bushing is stuck! This machine is a beauty and has about 99% of all it's original USA parts. The bushing is original USA and I don't think it's ever been removed. The machine belonged to an elderly woman who sold her house and left the machine there for the realtor to get rid of. I got wild and chopped out the original timing belt for obvious old belt reasons. I'm trying to get the bushing out to put the new belt on. I can't help but think I must be missing something. If there are tricks to getting out arm bushings that seem fused in, I am open to any and all suggestions.

[shoepatcher]

I tend to think the bushing may be just "locked up" since it may have never been removed. With the belt off, I would spray it with some BB blaster or rust breaker type material like Kroll Oil and let it set. Remember. you need to get it between the bushing and the casting. You said you loosen all the screws but I have to ask. Did you loosen the set screw that holds in tight in the back of the machine?

This bushing may have never been removed and if so, they feels like they have been glued in. I had one in a Singer some years ago and ended up driving on it with a piece of wood and brass rod before I got it loose.

There are other concoctions that members have come up with to loosen rusted items on machines with. I am not saying it is rusted, just very snug. I do not know what the post on this website was called. I would check that that out if the other items do not work. I would resist the urge to heat it up with a torch. Good luck

glenn

[tammythefactory]

Thank you so much, Glenn!

The first screw I removed was the one in the back. I even had to buy a new screwdriver set to get the pully unscrewed. I'm going to look into everything you have listed here. These are great places to start!

Thanks again,

Tammy

[gottaknow]

I drive those out with wooden dowels after soaking with TriFlow. Have fun!

Regards, Eric

[tammythefactory]

Thanks, Eric! It's actually been a great amount of frustrating fun so far. I live for the "ah ha!" moments with this.

This seems so simple but for a newbie this is gold!

Tammy

[Constabulary]

I once was in the same situation. The bearing was so unbelievable tight. I have used a heavy screw driver first and and then a boasting chisel. Left some ugly marks but at least it worked.

[cdthayer]

Tammy, your bushing doesn’t look like it has enough marks on it to come out yet.

I had to whang on it pretty hard to get the one out of my 111G156....

CD in Oklahoma

[CowboyBob]

Don't forget to loosen the 2-screws on the collar on the inside & like the others have said u just might need a bigger hammer!

[tammythefactory]

You guys are hilarious! I think I've taken out every screw possible that has anything to do with the bushing. I guess it's time to whack it! I figured there had to be some special "something" to do, but sometimes the hammer fixes everything. I'll update my progress as I do it. I can't thank you guys enough! If I get more stuck I'll check in again too.

Thanks, guys!

Tammy

[Constabulary]

This was when my bearing came off - dont forget to loosen the shaft set screw on the iside.

Edited September 28, 2015 by Constabulary

[tammythefactory]

Hi guys! I'm so excited to tell you about my progress! I kept saying, "I have to tell my leatherworker friends!"

I got the bushing out and all thanks to you guys! I would have never thought to or wanted to whack it out until you guys said that's the ONLY way out. I uploaded some pics and hopefully all of this can help someone else too. I started off modestly and then just started hitting it out with whatever fit. I ended up using the thread holder towards the end. It was the only long, metal piece that I could fit and hit!

Thanks so much!!

Tammy

[CowboyBob]

Now the fun begins,trying to get the belt through the slot,when you do get it in there,make sure to have your take up lever at the top of it's travel & the arrows lined up on the bottom shaft when you slide the belt on.If it isn't correct the machine won't sew,DON"T retime the hook,take the belt off & move it a notch one way or the other & it will start sewing.

Run some sandpaper around the shaft before you put the bearing back on & the bearing will slide on easier.

[dikman]

Something that may be of interest, a 50/50 mixture of acetone and auto transmission fluid makes a pretty good penetrating oil for loosening rusted/stuck parts. Just keep it clear of painted surfaces!

[tammythefactory]

Hi guys!

Here's the update ...

Everything is back together like it's supposed to be. The arrows are lined up underneath and I didn't have to time it again, I sanded the area before putting the bushing back in and that worked great also.

The problem I'm having now is that it's hard to turn the wheel and everything seems really tight. I'm wondering if the new belt is a tiny bit too short? When I put it on I had to lift the bushing a little to whack it back in. I oiled all the spots listed and even a few more. When I put the pedal to the metal on the clutch motor, the clutch belt spins on the machine and won't grab it. That belt is really old too and has no grip anyway. When it does move the machine it takes off uncontrollably.

I'm thinking I need two new belts, inside and out. Any other ideas would be great. You guys have been more than helpful!

[Constabulary]

maybe the V-belt is tooooo tight.

[CowboyBob]

Sometimes pieces of the old belt & I've even seen a few teeth from the belt in the groove on the pulleys,so you might want to slide the bellt off & check.You can scrape it out w/a screwdriver.

[tammythefactory]

It's pretty tight and difficult to move even without the V-belt on it.

[CowboyBob]

Maybe the bearing by the handwheel is bad? Slide it off alittle & see how it spins.

[Constabulary]

maybe the end screw on the hand wheel it too tight - they are not meant to be tightened up they are rot adjusting the hand wheel on the shaft. The 2 set screws are for tightening the hand wheel.

[CowboyBob]

Constabulary,that's a good idea too!! I forgot & I just had a guy in last week that did that very same thing to his machine.He just bought one of those screws a few weeks before & I told him he didn't need it & he thought well if the factory put it there it should be on the machine.So he puts it on & then overtightens it & when he brought it in after working on the machine for a month he wanted us to fix it.I loosened while he was still here & loosened it up.

[tammythefactory]

I did scrape the old belt off with a toothpick before I put the new one on and my machine didn't have that screw on the end of the hand wheel when I got it. I was going to buy one, but not if I don't need it

With the bearings, do you mean the ones that are part of the bushing near the hand wheel? They seemed pretty good when I had the piece out, but I will definitely look again.

When that whole section moves, should it be able to move without the hand wheel? Should it be able to move without the timing belt on? It's difficult to crank it without the hand wheel and I remember it not moving almost at all when the belt was off.

Should any of these moving parts move freely without each other, or do they need each other to move at all?

Remind me that it's about the journey, not the destination haha

[Constabulary]

Have you cleaned and oiled the machine? Maybe the hook is gummed or the hook gears or the needle bar or the presser foot bars... - maybe some old thread or dirt under the hook or bobbin case. Post some good clear and detailed pictures of your machine with removed face plate and from the underside - maybe someone will notice something.

Edited December 16, 2015 by Constabulary

[leecopp]

I am just going down this path on my new old monster.  By cd's measure I must have exactly the right number of marks on the bushing..grin.. I was feeling a little guilty..  excess force and the wrong tools to the rescue.

I won't mention how long it took me to remember the set screw on the back .. duhh..

The top was spinning well, but the bottom side is still a bit tight. More oil and sunbaths I guess.

 

Lee

 

[Tulsaman]

Well I installed a new belt 111w156 I picked up as a basket case...the Arm Shaft Bushing came out tough as well. The machine had  sat for many years.. so it was in need of some good banging. Thanks to you guys that posted above.  I took a heavy long screw driver and cut the tip off so it would reach way into the machine to keep the bushing moving out..It just didn't want to come out until it ran out of machine housing. Then it fell out...

  .I thought the thing was trashed as the bearing and race came out of the bushing. I called Bob at Toledo and he was great and found parts but had to order them.. I didn't want to wait... So I went back to look at the beast. But on inspection it seemed to be ok or could be ok so I ground and polished off the pound marks and sanded down the inside bushing run in the machine. Pressed the bearing back into the bushing then the race washer I call it. The concave side in. Added oil to it and on it. And seemed fine...bearings etc weren't damaged. Just the bushing chewed up from the punching.  I Used a wood block to tap it in. Still wouldn't go in like the video on Utube were it just slides out for the guy. Ha....  Got it running and it sews so nice...nicer it seems then my Juki LU1510N-7 ...Old machines run quieter I was told.  Gave it a new table top,light,went thru the stand,etc. Added the Conso knee lifter roller for the bottom of the lifter rod..lifts so smooth now. 

  My first machine like this was 111W155 at the Leather shop in Ptown and Milford CT then the Conso 226R I bought new in 1973 I believe...then a 211...Brother LS2B837..Juki 1510N-7..Had to restore this one for old time sake..

Edited June 11, 2016 by Tulsaman