Axe Sheath - Copper Rivet Intro

[electrathon]

I just looked and must have tossed the example I was going to post. When I first started leather work I also thought you were supposed to put rivets in things (says so in the Al Stohlman books) so I started doing it. I soon learned not to, but about a year or so later I found the early made sheath in a drawer, it had nasty corrosion growth all over the riveted area. It looked just like acid corrosion on a cars battery terminals, only green. It does not always happen, likely a lining up of moisture and the specific tannery chemicals.

[JamesR]

This green corrosion concerns me. I thought it only happened with chrome tanned not veg tanned leather?

[Ole South]

Rivets are best in items that get daily use... not good for long term storage. Use rivets for two reasons:

Cosmetics ("I'm going to be like bored in an hour so what do I care what it looks like next week man")

and

Because you NEED it. (it's a stress point that will eventually wear a threaded only seam out.)

[Northmount]

Copper and brass both corode when in a moist environment and don't have a protective coating. Called verdigris. There is another thread here about the process if you want to do a search for it. Also look at copper roofs.

I have some old harness where some of the copper rivets are green and others that are just dull. Depends on the amount of moisture each is subject to.

Tom

[TinkerTailor]

Copper and brass both corode when in a moist environment and don't have a protective coating. Called verdigris. There is another thread here about the process if you want to do a search for it. Also look at copper roofs.

I have some old harness where some of the copper rivets are green and others that are just dull. Depends on the amount of moisture each is subject to.

Tom

and salt.

I have a peanut butter jar full of nasty malt vinegar and salt for antiquing brass.

[Tannin]

Really nice & tidy and everything nicely proportioned. What thickness thread did you use & how many SPI (stitches per inch), 6 or 7? Nice job on the brass pop studs too - it's surprising how much can go wrong with those, esp. on thicker leather.

If you don't like the patina of verdigris, good ventilation and a greasy coating (e.g. Ko-cho-line leather treatment/petroleum jelly/Dubbin/most any grease) should help prevent it. I was surprised to see the rivets at the back of the axe head, it would have been simpler to just wrap one piece of leather around -- was the idea to use smaller pieces of leather? They look good. If the copper rivets are in contact with the iron/steel of the axe head you will likely get an electrolytic reaction over time if there is moisture around (in the UK there is often quite a lot of moisture around ).

I like the drop-in, full head cover design, secure & safe.

[eby]

This was .8mm tiger thread at 6 (I think) SPI. I was using smaller pieces for this, the last good bits of a 6/7 oz shoulder. I didn't think about the electrolytic aspect of those back rivets. I guess that'll be part of the experiment!

Thanks for the comments!