My tips for a "machine" look with Saddle Stitch

[DonorLeather]

Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched. I took a few photos and a video, to hopefully show and explain it a bit better....

As you all know a saddle stitch is very nice looking and is accomplished by threading a needle on each end of the thread. The rule of thumb I use for measuring my piece of thread is slightly more than 3 times the length of your stitching. 3 times the length is how much thread you will use and the little more gives you enough thread to pass the needle into the thread to lock it as you work, and when you get to the end of your piece you have enough thread to backstitch to lock your sewing in place with no nasty looking knots.

 EG... if your piece to be stitched is 4" long, then you would cut a piece of thread that is 14" long (3 times 4" is 12" with 2" left over to lock the needle and backstitch). You start with your first hole by pushing one needle into the first hole, and pull the thread through until you have EQUAL amounts of thread on either side of your work. Now your ready to start stitching. It is always best to work from right to left, or left to right, but ALWAYS maintain that direction. Imagine your piece of work on a stitching pony in front of you... you have one needle in your right hand, and one in your left to help explain it. In this case I am working from right to left, meaning I push the right needle in first, then push the left needle through. Once you snug up the thread, you start into the next hole with the needle that is now on the right.

When doing this, you should notice your right thread is always BEHIND your left thread. This is the key to making it look like it was machine sewn, and getting an even sturdy stitch. Push the right needle through and pull the thread a bit. Then push the LEFT needle through in FRONT of the thread you just pushed through. When pulling the thread tight, always pull the needles from ABOVE the threads in the holes, and when pulling the left needle, make sure it is between and above the threads in the work.

The video and pictures below should help to explain this a bit better if I have confused you with my instructions.

 

[DonorLeather]

https://youtu.be/pnh6Br8dFOY

 

[soccerdad]

Donor, thanks for the look at your technique. Readers interested in further tutorials could check out Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on YouTube. Those who prefer paper could look up Al Stohlman's "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather." 

[Martyn]

1 hour ago, DonorLeather said:

Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched.

Why would you want to do that? Surely one of the main benefits of saddle stitching is the beautiful pattern it makes? Also, if you align your stitches in a straight line, you loose the strength advantage of an angled saddle stitch. I'm not even sure you would call it a saddle stitch any more, just a double running stitch. There is artistry and beauty is a well done saddle stitch, flattening it, sterilises it IMO. I try and avoid flattening it, I dont use grovers and even scratch my stitch line ever-so-lightly so it wont mess with the lay of the stitch. I've spent hours and hours practising so I get a nice angle front and back. If I'd got a flat stitch, I'd consider the piece scrapped - or I'd unpick and re-stitch if it could be salvaged. Why would you want to hide the fact that it's been done by hand? I'm baffled.

Edited March 27, 2016 by Martyn

[Tugadude]

Kind of a touchy subject here.  I will give the OP the benefit of doubt and suggest that what was meant my machine was "regular" or "consistent."  Many folks don't see the subtle, identifiable characteristics of a true saddle stitch.  To that end I agree with Martyn that what is presented doesn't qualify.  Not forming a cross with the needles and actually setting a needle down are dead giveaways.  I admire the intent, but agree that there are better sources.

I don't consider myself expert, but I learn from those who are and aspire to one day reflect a level of craftsmanship.

Last thing I will say and don't mean any offense is that at least the method described results in a somewhat consistent result.  But to me, it is far from the ideal.  Yes, perhaps my ideal, but it is shared by others who appreciate tradition and try to maintain it.

[Martyn]

Tugadude, did you watch the video? The OP seems to be taking great pains to lay the stitch as flat as possible.

[Troy I]

Why are you guys giving the OP a hard time...if he wants to make his saddle stitch look like it is done with a sewing machine...fine...it is his style and what he likes.

I personally like my saddle stitch look more traditional or in the classic style...but each to his own.

DonorLeather. Thanks for sharing your style of a saddle stitch.

[Tugadude]

I don't think we are giving him a hard time.  You are taking it to a personal level.  What I did is actually give him the benefit of doubt.  What we are doing is expressing our opinion.  We have that right as do you.  It is kind of like the fact that many schools don't teach cursive handwriting anymore.  You can say, so what, who writes anyways now that keyboards are so prevalent?  To me, it matters and I lament the loss.  What if a new crop of stitchers adopt the method shown?  That, to me would be be sad.

[Tugadude]

Troy I, I went back and read my first post and have to say it was a lot more positive than you portray.  YMMV.

[Martyn]

Troy, I hear what you are saying, but there is more to it than just different ways of doing this or that. Traditional hand saddle stitching is a specific thing and a dying art. If it isn't down to us to keep the tradition alive, then who?

 

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DonorLeather. Thanks for sharing your style of a saddle stitch.

 

I get that you are trying to be inclusive and I definitely support the sentiment, but if you're not careful, a desire to be equitable can end up diluting the skill base. What Donor Leather is doing is perfectly valid, but it isn't saddle stitching and I cant say that it is no matter how much I might want to avoid causing offence.

Edited March 27, 2016 by Martyn

[DonorLeather]

In my opinion punching holes at an angle and pounding the thread flat is more of a Buck Stitch style mixed with a saddle stitch. The saddle stitch doesn't mean its from/for a saddle, though it could be used for that.... it means the threads "saddle" one another, or one on top of the other. A buck stitch uses slotted holes that are usually angled to create a diamond pattern in your sewing. I've worked leather professionally for 25 years and have done just about every kind of stitch or lace there is. This is just one example of a professional looking stitch that has been hand sewn.

6 hours ago, Martyn said:

Why would you want to do that? Surely one of the main benefits of saddle stitching is the beautiful pattern it makes? Also, if you align your stitches in a straight line, you loose the strength advantage of an angled saddle stitch. I'm not even sure you would call it a saddle stitch any more, just a double running stitch. There is artistry and beauty is a well done saddle stitch, flattening it, sterilises it IMO. I try and avoid flattening it, I dont use grovers and even scratch my stitch line ever-so-lightly so it wont mess with the lay of the stitch. I've spent hours and hours practising so I get a nice angle front and back. If I'd got a flat stitch, I'd consider the piece scrapped - or I'd unpick and re-stitch if it could be salvaged. Why would you want to hide the fact that it's been done by hand? I'm baffled.

Also in my opinion, just because something is made by hand doesn't mean it has to be erratic and un-uniform. Take the painting of the last supper for example, just because its hand painted does this mean that some of the  persons depicted should look like stick figures, while others are highly detailed and life like?

The saddle stitch is also used in book making (which I also do) and doesn't even resemble the stitching I posted above. Yet you are inevitably only happy with what your happy with.

 

[Martyn]

 

 

5 hours ago, DonorLeather said:

 it means the threads "saddle" one another, or one on top of the other.

Exactly so, but your method lays the stitch out flat, one behind the other. I dont know how you are making your holes, but if you are using a traditional pricking iron, then the angle of your stitch is set by the iron and never flat. Doesnt matter whose iron you use, Dixons, Geo.Barnsley, Blanchard, Osbourne or whoever, they are always set at an angle.

 

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Also in my opinion, just because something is made by hand doesn't mean it has to be erratic and un-uniform.

 

I agree completely. Properly done, a saddle stitch is every bit as uniform and neat as a machine, but it never looks like a machine has done it and doesnt need to. Looking like it has been done by hand, doesnt mean looking rough - quite the opposite. That's the point, you dont need to lay the stitch flat in order to achieve neatness and uniformity. Saddle stitching done properly...

 

 

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The saddle stitch is also used in book making (which I also do) and doesn't even resemble the stitching I posted above.

 

Isn't that a case of same term, totally different thing? I thought saddle binding was a reference to the way the pages are laid out - one inside the other - and then 'stitching' them together through the crease with staples, thread or whatever. It's just a coincidence of terminology and not a reference to a particular stitch.

Edited March 28, 2016 by Martyn

[Trox]

I totally agree with Martyn here, the saddle stitch should be sewn in an angle by using an European pricking wheel or iron (needle and awl). That's the only way it should be done. If you want a staight seam, use a sewing machine (of course you also have angled needle points for that to like LR and LL) If a customer wants to pay me extra for hand sewing, I do not want to make it look like it's  sewn it on a machine. A saddle stitch with most SPI is the highest regarded work, the best looking and strongest seam there is (done the proper way). Then it must be sewn in an angle, straight you make it weaker and you have to use longer stitches. In the old times bridles was saddle stitched by hand with 14 SPI, you cannot achieve that laying the stitches flat like that. Teach it the right way or do not teach it at all.

Tor

[johnv474]

My understanding is this:

The British and European school of saddle stitching has the angled stitches, popularized in part by Nigel Armitage's (excellent) videos on Youtube. Hermes is credited with "inventing" or putting a name to this method. This style also tends toward higher spi (7-9+) and finer holes/thread, a la Blanchard.

The American/Western style of stitching has flatter/straighter stitches, a la Stohlman's instructions. Examples by katsass, among others here on the forum, illustrate this. This style tends toward lower spi (5-7), bigger holes and thicker thread.

Neither school of thought is inherently superior to the other, and the strength of either is not terribly different. I personally prefer slanted stitches visually.

[cjmt]

I think it's fair to say that saddle stitch predates Nigel Armatage, Hermes or in fact America! It's centuries old, and there are 19th century slanted prick irons in daily use to prove the point. Saddlers came long before fashion houses!

If the American style is for long flat stitches it comes from Tandy kits with pre punched holes. Look at photos of old gun leather, it'll have slanted stitches

Trying to make a hand stitch look like a machine stitch that's itself poorly imitating hand stitching strikes me as slightly farcical..

[johnv474]

It is beyond dispute that the saddle stitch predates any of those people, though no one said otherwise.

Opinions are, likewise, beyond dispute.

Are slanted stitches created by machine superior to straight stitching done by hand? We all could imagine that such a discussion would quickly lead to a fruitless, but very vocal, dead end.

[Martyn]

I dont think the issue of slanted versus straight is really the point here. What we have is an attempt to make a hand stitch imitate a machine stitch. The question is why when hand made double running stitch is always superior to a machine made lock stitch? The only reason the OP is stitching in a straight line is to imitate the aesthetic of a typical machine stitch. The title of the thread is 'machine look with saddle stitch'. The question is why? As cjmt said, why would you want to make a superior hand stitch look like an inferior machine stitch? It's like saying 'my tips for making something that has been well made, look like it's been not as well made'.

Edited April 4, 2016 by Martyn

[cjmt]

5 hours ago, johnv474 said:

It is beyond dispute that the saddle stitch predates any of those people, though no one said otherwise.

Opinions are, likewise, beyond dispute.

Are slanted stitches created by machine superior to straight stitching done by hand? We all could imagine that such a discussion would quickly lead to a fruitless, but very vocal, dead end.

I think your missing the point. Its not machine v hand, its saddle stitch v lock stitch. Saddle stitch is a better, stronger stitch, thats why we do it. Fundamentally, this is equivalent to trying to spot weld somthing to make it look it was done in a factory by a robot, rather than seam weld it, but take the time to learn to do it properly so its not only stronger but prettier.

[JeannieH]

I'm new to leatherworking...I'm currently learning to handstitch. I normally use my cylinder bed for making my bags. However, I decided to purchase reverse pricking irons to use when topstitching. By hand that is. I prefer the look of the "machine look saddle stitch" over the slanted. I may machine stitch a part that will be seen...but also need to hand stitch a part on the same bag. I rather they match. So this is my reasons for doing a machine look stitch. So thank you Donorleather for this post. There are so many ways to do things...the saddle stitch has its place...and a machine look saddle stitch does as well!

[CZoc]

I  have to say, this discussion has been awesome! Reading the different theories, experience, methods , opinions on stitching leather from folks that I consider experts is inspiring to me !

I'm considered a subject matter expert in a completely different industry and I participate in these types of conversations way too often. The technology industry is advancing so fast, these discussions typically end up with the guy who knows the latest R&D development carries the topic. Guys like me are relegated to the "old school ways" and I often take offence.... So when I hear (read)  people like you discussing a historical method or tradition of craftsmanship - it rings true ! Its unmistakable ! The perfect blend of fact, history, pride in craftsmanship and you lead the way.

Im not an expert in leather work, but you provide the education and opportunity on a subject that can NOT be dictated by technology. Some things are truly valued because they have stood the test of time and tradition, and those things needs to be kept alive!

Seriously - Bravo to you all for keeping it all alive!

NOW, have any of you measured the shear strength of a saddle stitch VS a straight stitch using dual-column gas chromatograph, Hewlett-Packard model 5710a with flame analyzing detectors????

 

 

[Tugadude]

Thumbs up anytime someone quotes from "My Cousin Vinny".  

The topic took some interesting turns and valid points made all around.  Thanks are due the OP for the effort and for trying to help raise the bar.  JeannieH made a good point about consistency.  

In the end, we all have individual aesthetic preferences.  Nothing wrong there.

[sbrownn]

Sometimes it is nice to be able to have a hand stitch mimic a machine when there are specific areas on a piece that you can't do on the machine but want to match.

[Les No6]

Well I’m a Yorkshire man we call a spade a spade, don’t have opinions it is what it is this is a saddle and this is a Master Saddler 

 

[Les No6]

This is an old timey bridle stitched 18 to the inch with box keepers.

[Les No6]

This is a coach pad the work of a black saddler