best hammer for large Oblong punch

[Boriqua]

I know the best thing would be a press but I don't have the room. I just bought a new Osborne 1 5/8 oblong punch and dont want to ruin it. I sharpened it up and it has a nice edge but using my 1 lb rawhide hammer to go through 2 pcs of glued 8/9 oz is a pain. I mushroomed my old punch some using a steel lump hammer and I would prefer not to do that to this one. So

3lb Dead blow

2 lb Brass Hammer

2 lb rubber mallet

I have a harbor freight near by so am looking to run over there since I can get something inexpensive.

Edited August 25, 2016 by Boriqua

[Northmount]

I prefer the deadblow hammer.  Also stick the punch into some beeswax before punching each hole.  Cuts easier and is easier to pull out.

Tom

[billybopp]

+1 for a deadblow hammer.  For that sort of punch, the heavier the better ( as long as you can swing it and control it).  Deadblow hammers also seem to transfer more of the force into the punch.  Just a note, if you find that the deadblow face is deforming (some of 'em are pretty soft), you might want to glue on a piece of leather to help spread out the force across the face.

Billl

[Colt W Knight]

I use my 2 pound poly head maul for my 2" oblong punch, but I wish I had a 3 lbs for those big punches.

 

[zuludog]

You could try making a soft face for your lump hammer by gluing on a couple of thicknesses of thick leather; or a piece of polypropylene chopping board, about 10mm thick; or a piece of wood

[Ken Nelson]

Split rawhide faced maul  from Weaver.  Is heavy and will not harm your punches.  Use the right tool for the job and this one is.  I also have a Barry King Maul, the heaviest one that works pretty good but the split head maul is the better.  My punches are over 20 years old and the ends look like new.  Will last 2 life times if you use them right with the right maul and right poundo board..

[Boriqua]

Just thought I would share what I found ... I tried the deadblow at 4lbs but I didnt like that I couldnt feel the cutter go through the leather. I usually put a scrap piece of leather on a tree stump and try not to go through the scrap leather. On pulling out the punch I hadnt gone all the way through which isnt a huge deal but one of the things I liked about using the steel hammer even though it mushroomed my punch was that you could really feel what was going on.

I liked ken's idea alot. Rawhide will be soft enough not to ruin the tool but hard enough to give me the tactile quality I am looking for so I went to weaver. The split face is like 100 bucks soooooo.... I went back to steel. BUT

I just found this source today and thought I would share as it might help someone else out. Split face 3.5 lbs 39.99 and 5.5 pounds at 49.99. Looks like they have some kick butt prices on some poly stuff too. I dont know these people and havent yet ordered my hammer so I cant speak to anything but the price on the website. I will chime back in when I get my mallet.

http://www.hammersource.com/Mallets/

[Northmount]

You could use a brass hammer too.  Won't deform the punch.  May need to dress up the hammer face once in a while.  Long time ago, we used lead hammers.  When they got beaten up too badly, used to melt them down and recast them.  Had 4 or 5 molds so could do a batch at a time.  Now lead is no longer safe to use!  The lead hammers didn't bounce either.

Tom

 

[Red Cent]

Mighty small footprint. I don't use blunt instruments anymore.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html

 

 

[Colt W Knight]

54 minutes ago, Red Cent said:

Mighty small footprint. I don't use blunt instruments anymore.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html

 

 

I have been wanting  to get one and use it for punching and border tools. Does it make punching quicker on repetitive tasks? And do the tools stay sharper longer?