Juki 1508 NH VS Juki LH 2810 S-S

[R8R]

I looked at Durkopp Adler. Really nice stuff. However - the DA 867 is at least 50% more expensive than the 2810 and has very similar specs. (and replacement parts I am sure are INSANELY expensive) 

I'm not considering any of the Juki clones really. If I can get a decent used 1508NH I might go for that but the high and wide arm on the 2810 would be great for trickier/bulkier bag items and wider swatches.

 

My dream setup right now would be a 2810-7 and a 2342-7...

[shaybutlerknives]

What did you end up getting?  Same situation here. Looking at the 1508nh and the 2810 for wallets b

[R8R]

10 hours ago, shaybutlerknives said:

What did you end up getting?  Same situation here. Looking at the 1508nh and the 2810 for wallets b

I just paid for a 2810 at a local shop, picking it up next week. I'll post a review of it up in here once I get some time on the treadle. I was gonna go for the 2810-7 but I decided I'd see how I like the basic machine first before I shelled out for thread cutter, direct drive, etc. 

Also the basic belt drive machine uses whatever motor I want, (as apposed to the fixed power on the direct drive models) so I can add a 1 hp servo and a speed reducer, etc.

[R8R]

I had checked out a 1508N, a 1508NH, a 1541s, and a 1508NH clone.

I also breifly owned a 1560N. (sold it cause I didn't need a double needle)

I'm going to say initial impressions of the 2810 is that it's better than all of those. Like ... way better. In my limited testing so far, it climbs over assemblies easily, no flinching or stalling and just seems to sew smoother than the other Juki's in this range. Most people seem to say the Japanese made machines are inherently better, and I think in the near past that was true, but I see little to no difference so far in build quality with this Chinese made machine. Fit and finish is very nice. Time will tell how it holds up.

If you are not familiar with the newer Juki flat beds, the overall design is super cool - no shafts or bearings exposed, everything is housed under a full length top cover, including all the feed mechanisms. It's "semi-dry", all the auto lubrication is from a tank and tubes to the lower feed parts and hook. Seemingly, all the upper drive components are sealed bearings or grease. Not much manual oiling to speak of.

The one I got is the "A" Euro gauge variety, shares common feet with Adler 467, etc.

Auto-feed feature on the bobbin winder is super cool. There is a thread knife/thread clip on it, and when you trim the thread the clip holds it in place. Stick a bobbin on it, throw the release lever and the thread spools onto the bobbin automatically - no need to pass the thread through the bobbin hole and hold it while it starts, or trim the excess. Super quick and brainless.

My hand is in the pic for scale. This is a monster flat bed. I'm 6'4" with large hands. This makes a Singer 111w look like a Singer 221.

More pics and impressions once I get more treadle time on it.

 

 

[Rustic]

What is the difference between the 1508, 1508n, 1508ns, 1508nh, 1508h????

[AdamPCain]

Very nice that thing is a beast.

[Tejas]

13 hours ago, Rustic said:

What is the difference between the 1508, 1508n, 1508ns, 1508nh, 1508h????

 

lu1500n.pdf

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Good looking machine, best of luck with it.

 

[R8R]

6 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

Good looking machine, best of luck with it.

 

Thanks! Was going to order from you but a local shop made me a deal I could not refuse. We might talk motors in the near future though.

Edited February 6, 2018 by R8R
Spelling

[R8R]

20 hours ago, Rustic said:

What is the difference between the 1508, 1508n, 1508ns, 1508nh, 1508h????

On some Juki models "S" denotes "safety", as in it has a safety clutch.  (ex: DNU-1541 does not have a safety clutch, DNU-1541S does)

On others (often the second or third letter behind the model number) like in the 1500 series, it denotes "standard" gauge, as in it uses the "standard" Singer style presser feet and throat plates, etc.

"A" typically denotes it is "Euro" gauge (Adler style feet, etc)

"H" means "heavy".

 

All the specs for every current machine are on the Juki site, and for older models a web search will turn up manuals and spec sheets for just about anything.